oggietiu

iTrader: (7)

thanks neal. so i need a bonito button for it to work?

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

no..just use your existing Virtus button..the Bonito button has only 4 head screws..the Virtus has 6

Chief88

iTrader: (6)

well I've been very impressed with my keep off 4. thanks to the guys at clockwork for there support and knowledge. true believer in novarossi engines.

sumpan77

Hello! When the engine is race tuned, is it normal to have the low and highspeed needles flush? I have a Cinco BT.

Eivind E

I would say that sounds about normal, my HSN is about 0.5mm further in than flush and the LSN looks about flush.

However 5 minutes turn on this carb makes a huge change, so you can't really just say it's flush or not, I mean there are massive nuances here

sumpan77

Ok thanks for the answer! Then im close, just wanted to know so that i wasnt way off with the needles.

Jason Midwest

I have a new Nova P5XLT on a Kyosho inferno MP9 TKI 3 Ready set.......I have about a gallon threw it. I am running Kyosho 1.1 Clutch Springs, Kyosho Blue clutch shoes, 13 tooth bell, 46 spur. Nova 41021 Manifold, Nova 9901 SS Pipe. I have run both the 6 and 6.5 carb inserts with similar results.

The low end in the motor seems somewhat lacking. I am not the greatest tuner but I think the tune is close. I am wondering if my pipe & manifold selection may be having an adverse affect on the low end power I am looking for. The motor has plenty of top end! I run down most cars on the back straight.

From a dead stop the car is hooked up and you can hear the clutch engage but there is a flat spot in the power band at the point of engagement. The motor is not coughing and belching out smoke as if to rich.....it is not sputtering and missing out as if to lean.

I have gone over the clutch it looks good and all the shoes seem to be engaging correctly. Like I said above I am of the opinion that I may have a bad Nova mani / tuned pipe combo for the application. I don't want to sacrifice all of my top end power for low end power but I could definitely trade some high end power for some low end grunt.

I'm not the greatest driver so I know I don't carry enough speed threw the corners which drops the motor out of the power band......so my driving style is such that I go threw a corner rite before a jump and with the flat spot in the power band I come up short on most jumps. OR on a good night I carry enough speed threw the corner and over shoot the jump

beidle99

iTrader: (9)

Its not broken in yet...the P5 with 9901/41021 and 1.1 springs combo should have plenty of bottom end. Your buggy should have enough low end grunt to do donuts once broken in. Most nova sponsored drivers run the 9901/41021 combo. I like the 2096/41021 combo for a little less low end and more top end. Something else is wrong if you think your tune is good after breakin and you still don't have bottom end.

Eivind E

Ok, so here's the bottom line on this.
You have a tki3 buggy which should be shredding on bottom end with this engine and pipe.
So the explanation is elsewhere.

From what you write:

• 1.0 clutch should be enough, 1.1 clutch? WHY?
  
• Carburation:
• From your explanation it sounds that you are excessively lean on top, the p5xlt shouldn't be "lightning fast" down the straight it should be mediocre. Lean top end can restrain the initial takeoff grunt of an engine, this is choking the engine and not allowing enough flow and even pressure is being restricted. So you probably need to open up the top end maybe as much as one half turn on the clock.
  
• 6 venturi? WHY?? You should be running a 7 on this engine.
  
• Leave the pipe and manifold alone, this should be plenty perfect. You should with a proper tune have a grunty bottom end and a mediocre top end down the straight.
  
• Please check your idle gap. It should be "as small as possible", if you by some reason have a large idle gap it is the same as being rich on bottom in terms of performance. You should probably be in the area of 0.4mm-0.6mm idle gap, I'm not 100% on that as I never measure I just do it by ear. The correct idle gap and correct leanness of the bottom end will allow for rpm's on idle to be in the correct zone, and a crisp bottom end will be obtained.
  
• I like to repeat this, if this engine is screaming down the straight and faster than all other cars, you have an excessively lean top end. With this pipe and this engine you should be "medium fast" down the straight compared to others. You should not suddenly gain speed halfway down it. It should probably peter out halfway down and maintain same speed the last half. IF THE CAR IS SUDDENLY GAINING SPEED HALFWAY DOWN THE STRAIGHT, YOUR TOP END IS SO LEAN THAT YOU CAN RUIN THE ENGINE

Jason Midwest

I appreciate your advice but I can do without ??? Why's.........in my post I think it's clear that I am new to this. If it wasn't clear...... hey yeah I am new to this.

1.1 clutch springs WHY??? = 1.1's are stock springs in the Ready Set Kit, When I swapped out the Kyosho motor I put new 1.1's on the nova along with blue shoes. 1.0's would compound the problem at this point would they not?

6.0 - 6.5 Venturi WHY??? = Just want decent mileage.....I would like to get 11 minutes out of a tank of fuel. Is an 11 minute run time attainable with the 7.0 Venturi?

I have read the tuning bible sticky and have attempted to obtain a "balanced" tune with a minimal idle gap. I will go back to the drawing board and re-tune. Thursday evening I felt my tune was spot on. Unfortunately Friday night racing brought quick dropping temperatures, drizzle, and rain which made tuning even more complex than normal.... But like I said the flat spot in the low end has always been a bit of a problem. As far as the back straight goes I do seem to be faster than most cars......that being said I can't say I get a burst of speed halfway down the straight.

Eivind E

Hi, yeah I'm sorry if the question marks had you put off, I was just trying to help you

But honestly I think if you try my suggestions all your problems will be solved
You never want to have an excessively lean top end because it starves the engine of oil for lubrication
Furthermore, the low speed needle works in series with the high speed needle. So all fuel first passes the high speed needle, you see? So then the low speed needle enters into the jet nozzle, so it basicly restricts the flow most at idle as the needle will be further into the nozzle. You can look at this in the carb opening and understand what I'm saying
With the correct idle gap the engine will consume less fuel. I think you should be more concerned with the engine running correctly rather than the run time itself, and also once you have it tuned right it'll be easier to change between venturis, the 7 is easier to tune than the 6.

So anyway.. you'll learn soon enough good luck

Jason Midwest

I appreciate the advice! I am going to re-tune and go over everything again. I am glad to hear there is no need to invest in a new pipe or manifold!

PERROTTO

iTrader: (5)

Many people believe that the smaller Venturi will yield more runtime. This is not entirely true because the smaller Venturi will yield less power which will cause you to use more throttle. Step up the Venturi to a 7mm and retune. You will get a little more power and will be easier to tune.

Eivind E

The pipe is fine, with that combo you should have plenty bottom end. You might even have to order 0.95 springs in the end because it should have a lot of grunt. I think you can just start by opening the top needle half a lap, then it will probably be on the rich side.. you can then close it 5 minutes at a time (if you are thinking the needle is a clock) and then reach a good spot that way is easy for a beginner.
Then after that you can revisit the bottom end, you can either measure the idle gap by inserting some rod that is a half mm thick or something, and then just adjust the bottom end so that it doesn't choke after idling 15-20 seconds.. and doesn't blow huge wads of smoke after idling 15 sec.. then you'll be close to being in the zone.

Jason Midwest

I appreciate all of the advice I really do. I have the motor out now....gonna look over the clutch and springs one last time and check the drive train. Then I'm gonna throw in the 7 venturi, re-tune and see were I end up at. I may be way to lean on the high speed needle as you have suggested. I tuned the past the point at which the top end flattened out on the back straight as you suggested it should......it's funny I remember at which point I decided to do so because the top end seemed at bit lacking I wasn't racing other cars at the time though so I didn't realize how much faster I was on the back straight.....now if I could just blow past people on the rest of the track like I did on the back straight I would be golden!