Pretty sure that MH's opinions carry a ton of weight, if nothing else, just because he's been in it for a LONG TIME! He has probably seen it all, 10x over!

if you want your engine to feel lazy run the 41021 , if you want more pop run the 41001......I don't care what any of you say I hate a lazy feeling engine and so do hundreds of other racers I deal with..........

this year I will do some video timing between a stock BTT and my modified BTT..I will time the section of my track that allows for wide open , which is a 180' straight, with a nearly full speed sweeper after it.... On video so far it shows the modified being at least .5 seconds faster in that particular section.....doesn't sound like much...doesn't look like much..but do the math in a 40 lap race.......

Also on my track there is a very challenging triple, the very fastest lines involve clearing that triple...However that triple requires a huge amount of low end grunt , most mild engines cannot clear it...most engines struggle, but the powerful modifieds clear it with room to spare easily... that ability to clear jumps makes a huge difference.....I don't care what anyone says, casing a jump isn't fast.... If a driver is a pro they don't need much pop down low as they don't slow down much and carry piles of corner speed....However many of the average drivers slow down to line up and having that bottom end power on tap can be the difference between clearing a jump or casing a jump..I have seen it hundreds of times now. nobody is going to sell me on the benefits of a lazy ass engine and pipe combo......

Man, I always seem to rub people wrong on these damn forums. I'm not saying your wrong I just have a different theory when it comes to off road racing. Dyno horsepower and usable track horsepower are two different schools, especially when your dealing with guys who aren't very experienced. The last thing a non Pro driver needs in their car is a Formula 1 engine in off road. That same engine that pulls passed everyone down the straight is going to be very hard to hold on to in the other 90% of the track. If you can handle those wild horses then more power to you, but over the course of a 20 or 30 min race someone will be able to pull a lot more than .5 a lap if they learn to be discipline and take advantage of usable power. Pro drivers use momentum like you said because that's the fastest way around the track, and if more guys would focus more on how to attack a track than horsepower, they would be able to clear any jump with the right stock set up. Just my friendly opinion...:)

here we go again... same ole shhhhhh same old suspect.... just a different day....

you didn't rub me the wrong way LOL I got much thicker skin then that ,and my humor is a little off center sometimes....but by no means did you offend me...I can appreciate your views and all but, nah.... no quiet pipes and wimpy engines for this cat.... :) I enjoy my power way too much...

9901 and 21 on a plus 4C is money (pit man all season) and no one, even the other guys engine and pipe set up had an advantage..... on the BTT its the Ontario RCpro champ but broke a drive shaft at the Canadian Nats...


been following Monty's advice before i started talking to him and subsequently buying his engines.. and he was always spot on...

tried listening to other guys on here to and all i did was waste money..

I hate keyboards!! Words always get misinterpreted without any real emotions.
:D
I hear you, I talk a good game but I agree with you that nothing quite compares with that certain audible down the straight!!! :tire:

I love my 2013 pipe!:nod: Don't think the neighborhood does tho! :lol:

2013 rocks !!!! :nod::nod: braaaaaaaapppppp !

Pipe selection and tune is important. If you don't have a proper tune your selected pipe could seem as a poor selection. This might sound as a no Brainer but it's a common mistake. Pending on what pipe I've selected my needles could be a whole turn off +/- from prior.

I know monty wouldn't recommend something if it was a turd as they say different strokes for different folks its called preference.

Quick question here since folks are a wee bit stuck on pipe, header, track and such,

When selecting a pipe/header combo, which is the more important aspect to consider if all other things are as you want/need them to be (tune and fuel choice locked down). Track size/layout or track surface (high traction ot loose)?

I ask beacuse it would seem to me, and I freely admit that I could be way off base, that a pipe/header combo choice might favor a track size/layout more so than the surface. If you're picking based on the needs of trying to control wheel spin or the lack there of (think a loose surface or high traction), why would one do so? I would think that proper clutch tuning would or should be used for that more so than a pipe/header.

It is all relevant...

traction
fuel
clutch
layout
driving style

will all affect what the ideal pipe/header is to run

I get that, just asking wich would be the most important aspect as a start.

Say if you're at a new track that you have never been to. You'll probably start with something that "you" know works for you. Then you find you have a need to make a change to make things better or perfect. You already know your fuel, tune, engine, tires, and driving style. In which order would you start and then go to I guess is my question.


I'm thinking this could be a possible order (but not difinetive)

Track size and layout (tight or open):

Defines the type of header and pipe you may need. Top end setup, bottom end setup, or somewhere in between. This taking into consideration the engine and the needs it has. Does it have more top end, bottom end, or not too much or either.

Layout jump type:

Short run up jumps, jumps right out of corners, things of that nature. Being tight or open also plays a part. So here if a change is needed to be made, would the first choice be a pipe and /header or something else or maybe both?

Track surface:

High traction, loose, somewhere in between, wet, dry, anything like that. For that, what is going to be needed first? Pipe and header change or clutch tuning, or....?


I'm sure the list could be a lot more, but the order I put them in to me makes the most sence as a starting point. Again this is considering that all the other factors are known and accounted for, but you have to make a change to get to where you want/need to be?

I know that I am happy with my 2096/41021 combo on my plus 4 for at my local track which is a medium sized track with a couple short run ups, 180's and with anything from medium to high traction depending on weather. Some of the other tracks in the area I might be switching headers. But I tune with my clutch first before I start changing headers. I am interested in the 41001 for some of the larger tracks in area, but I will go run on them first before buying a header to try out.
In fact I might even go up a tooth on the clutch bell before a header change.

2096 vs 9901
 

It seems many people here have tried different pipes. Could someone please give me their comparison between 2096 and 9901, given the same manifold 41021 and same engine Btts. Which has smoother low end? Thank you.