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-   -   NOVAROSSI Engine thread.... (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/353301-novarossi-engine-thread.html)

rc10parin 06-21-2012 04:21 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Good day I have a NOVAREX engine from the late 80’s for a RC500. Im looking for a replacement piston and sleeves or can someone help me for a suitable replacement in the current line of Novarossi engine
Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

NOVAREX 350 3port plus 1
here some spec.
Sleeves Piston
Inside Dia. --------- 16.63mm Outside Dia. ----- 16.63mm
Outside Dia. ------ 19.92mm Height ------------16.65mm
Head Outer Dia. --- 22.20mm
Height--------------- 13.06mm
Bottom to base of exhaust port ----10.05mm

Motorman007 06-21-2012 08:01 AM

Monty Thank you for your time on this.

I was on your site looking for a new Mill

I seen you said the plus 21-4C "TEAM" over the Btta or the BTTs or BTT.

Why Sir?

I would like to have a smooth OS vspec type feel like back in the day when the vspec first came out.

I love to hear you input on this sir.

Thanx Dibbs

houston 06-21-2012 08:28 AM


Originally Posted by Motorman007 (Post 10886858)
Monty Thank you for your time on this.

I was on your site looking for a new Mill

I seen you said the plus 21-4C "TEAM" over the Btta or the BTTs or BTT.

Why Sir?

I would like to have a smooth OS vspec type feel like back in the day when the vspec first came out.

I love to hear you input on this sir.

Thanx Dibbs

Just ask guys who have used both;)

071crazy 06-21-2012 10:58 AM


Originally Posted by savannahmick (Post 10886119)
I just recently got a RE12 and it's the same as a 9901 which is a great pipe for most Novas. My buddy runs a 2096 and he told me that it's just a little smoother and easier to drive than the 9901 but they are both great pipes. The RE12 is about half the cost and less likely to get bent than the Nova pipes which are easier to bend or dent IMO.

A few of us around here are finding that the re12 powerband is slightly more powerful than the 9901. Sounds kinda strange given that the re12 is supposed to be a copy, but we've found some differences.

nougat 06-21-2012 11:01 AM

I run a stock P5XLT with the RE12 pipe in buggy and I love it. Great combo.

houston 06-21-2012 04:27 PM

17011 front bearing

ok , i have had this happen to guys a couple times over the last couple of years so here is a tip and warning

when installing the 17011 front bearing in your engine , do not use a flat faced bearing installation tool unless you have some sort of spacer to let install tool surface hit the outer race and not the inner race as the bearings inner race protrudes by .3mm . this will do irrepairable damage to the front bearing and render it useless

it is the best bearing on the market bar none and when properly installed will yield the best protection you can get from a front bearing


hope this helps

beidle99 06-21-2012 04:48 PM


Originally Posted by houston (Post 10888471)
17011 front bearing

ok , i have had this happen to guys a couple times over the last couple of years so here is a tip and warning

when installing the 17011 front bearing in your engine , do not use a bearing installation tool unless you have some sort of spacer to let install tool surface hit the outer race and not the inner race as the bearings inner race protrudes by .3mm . this will do irrepairable damage to the front bearing and render it useless

it is the best bearing on the market bar none and when properly installed will yield the best protection you can get from a front bearing


hope this helps

I have always heated the block and froze the bearing so it just slides right in. and then use the crank before everything cools to make sure its all lined up properly. Is that still an ok old school method?

Dr. Evil 06-22-2012 07:28 AM

Re: installation of front bearing
 
Houston. Good day.

Soo. When installing a front bearing, is it not advisable to use a hudy bearing removal/installtion tool?? Isn't this and some others the type of tool that basically presses on the center portion of the bearing.

Interesting...

Also, what about the concept of heating the case and freezing the bearing?

Thanks

beidle99 06-22-2012 10:11 AM


Originally Posted by Dr. Evil (Post 10890646)
Houston. Good day.

Soo. When installing a front bearing, is it not advisable to use a hudy bearing removal/installtion tool?? Isn't this and some others the type of tool that basically presses on the center portion of the bearing.

Interesting...

Also, what about the concept of heating the case and freezing the bearing?

Thanks

Pull everything out of the motor including pinch bolt. Heat the block in the oven or use a heat gun, this expands the metal. Once the block gets a little over 300* the front bearing will pop our with a slight push from behind. Freezeing your new bearing makes it slightly smaller (contracts the metal). Get the block back up to a little over 300* and using the crank I push the front bearing back in from the front. Quick pull the crank and put it back in the motor the correct way and spin it. Doing this lines up the front and rear bearing. Be careful not to dislodge the rear bearing or you'll have to re-seat it too. I have pulled and seated a lot of bearings that way and never had problem. including the OS .50 Hyper I ran in my Trex 600 at high head speed for gallons and gallons on end, I lost count around 18 or 19 gallons :eek:.

Dr. Evil 06-22-2012 10:56 AM

Bearing replacement
 
I have replaces several bearings over years. I'm by no way saying I'm an expert and like to hear the different ways to do something.

If the fit is tight, then I warm the block up. I slowly press the bearing in and when it gets to almost bottom, I go even slower. I can feel the bearing reaching bottom and that is when I slow down even more. I can see over pressing the bearings can put excessive pressure on the balls and the internal races. Who wants to blow up an engine by such an act. I don't.

afr0sch 06-22-2012 11:13 AM

Hudy bearing tool FTW!

rcuser567345 06-22-2012 11:32 AM


Originally Posted by beidle99 (Post 10891200)
Pull everything out of the motor including pinch bolt. Heat the block in the oven or use a heat gun, this expands the metal. Once the block gets a little over 300* the front bearing will pop our with a slight push from behind. Freezeing your new bearing makes it slightly smaller (contracts the metal). Get the block back up to a little over 300* and using the crank I push the front bearing back in from the front. Quick pull the crank and put it back in the motor the correct way and spin it. Doing this lines up the front and rear bearing. Be careful not to dislodge the rear bearing or you'll have to re-seat it too. I have pulled and seated a lot of bearings that way and never had problem. including the OS .50 Hyper I ran in my Trex 600 at high head speed for gallons and gallons on end, I lost count around 18 or 19 gallons :eek:.

Thats what I do, but lots of people say using the tool is better.

CanyonCarverR1 06-22-2012 12:05 PM

.

Dr. Evil 06-22-2012 01:10 PM

????
 
According to Internetslang.com, FTW means

F*** the world???

so are you trying to say use the Hudy tool and to heck with every else???


LOL>.

megasaxon 06-22-2012 03:00 PM


Originally Posted by Dr. Evil (Post 10891732)
According to Internetslang.com, FTW means

F*** the world???

so are you trying to say use the Hudy tool and to heck with every else???


LOL>.


FTW means For The Win

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=ftw


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