3rd needle
 

Steve Pond wrote a few articles about carbs I could not find the exact one I was looking for but here is the best I could find. This is from a magazine Steve Pond wrote for.

THE THIRD NEEDLE
The third “needle” isn’t actually a needle at all; it’s an adjustable
seat. These third adjustments are found exclusively on slide carbs
because their design allows them (I’ll get to the variety of carb
designs later). In most slide carbs, the low-speed needle is in the
center of the slide valve. The seat for the low-speed needle is fixed
in the body of the carb, opposite the slide valve. As a slide carb
opens, the vacuum helps to draw fuel into the engine. Once the
airflow has a direct path over the fuel inlet, fuel draw is increased
slightly. By adjusting the low-speed needle and the third “needle” at
the same time, you can adjust the throttle position at which the fuel
inlet is fully exposed to the air flowing through the carb. For
example, if the inlet is fully exposed at 1/4 throttle, an extra dose of
fuel can be expected at that point. If, however, the low-speed
needle and the seat are adjusted in the same direction—farther into
the carb’s venturi—the inlet may not be fully exposed until 1/3
throttle is reached. This is why the third needle is often referred to
as the mid-range needle. Its use will marginally alter the rate of fuel
flow in the mid-throttle range—an extra tuning option for the
accomplished tuner.
It’s often recommended that the third needle be left alone by all except very experienced engine tuners. More harm than good can potentially result from trying to use this adjustment without knowing the consequences. You’ll never get the experience without trying, however, so use your best judgment. Even if you opt not to use the third needle as a tuning tool, a three-needle design offers a secondary benefit: another way to adjust the low-speed mixture. The conventional way to adjust it is to adjust the needle, but simply by adjusting the seat or the third needle without adjusting the low-speed needle an equivalent amount, you accomplish the same thing. This is helpful in applications in which the low-speed needle isn’t very accessible because it’s blocked by some hardware on the chassis.

this is from rc nitro mag written by Steve Pond. the file size was too big.

As written in the article, the third needle can be good thing. the moast important thing when you have a three needle carb, is to move the LSN and the "third" needle exact same amount.

If you screw the LSN in half a turn, screw its seat out half a turn.

Ok so I am getting ready to build an 8ight 3.0 nitro buggy to go with my ebuggy for this upcoming outdoor season. I have never raced nitro buggy. I have raced gas truck in the past, but that was many years ago. I used to run Novarossi motors in my gas trucks and loved them, so I want to stick with one for my nitro buggy.

I am leaning towards the KEEP OFF 21-4. Not sure what pipe/manifold would be best to go with it but would like to keep that Nova as well.

Any advise would be appreciated, I have been reading through this thread but I am still not quite sure what would work best for me as I am new to nitro buggy. I just want a reliable setup that is easy to drive and will run well throughout the season.

I went from ebuggy to nitro some time ago, and I like the 9853 pipe with 41021. More bottom then the 9901 or 2096 which you will appreciate. Also yields really good runtime (I pit at 10 minutes on a large open track). If you want something smoother, go with the 9901.

9901/41021 for more bottom end to middle
2096/41021 For slightly less bottom but more top

Adam Drake runs 9901/41021 if that means anything to you

I've noticed Amain has lowered the price on the Clio P5 and I'm considering getting one. I've had several P5xlts/Beat5's and I was wondering how the Clio compares to the older versions as far as characteristics? What are good pipe combo's for buggy? Thanks for all imput.

team piston
low cg/profile head
different crankshaft (better performance)

2096 with 41001/41029 depending on how much bottom end you want, where 41029 is smoother and the 01 more low/mid range power.

What about 9901/21/re12?

Im running the 9901 on a modded P5 ( with a Clio head;)) and it feels as close to perfect as I have felt in a truck motor. Plenty of bottom, super smooth, 11:30 run times...

My next motor will probably be the Clio tough. I like the way 5 port motors feel in a truck. If I had it all to do it again, I think I would have gone straight to it instead of the P5. Don't get me wrong, I love my P5.... Its just starting to become more outdated that I prefer. :sneaky:

But the Clio was the replacement to the P5 line. Wonder what they are coming out with next...

more bottom end, slightly less top

I.D this Engine for me please
 

Hey Guys,
Looking to put this in my Buggy and was after some info on it(tune etc.).
Any help muchly appreciated in advance. Cheers

http://imagizer.imageshack.com/img910/3420/jhS6Ou.jpg

Was a good engine

Probly 5 port bx engine but i would get a new engine bro , that thing will more than likely give you headache trying to keep it running

:cool:

Which is better in truggy the new Clio or the bonito?

I've tried both and each have their own pros/cons. Clio more bottom end / torque while Bonito has more top end / smoother power band. Personally I dont have the smoothest throttle input so I prefer a smoother engine. To each their own...can't go wrong with either. If price is a concern, the Clio is around 25 to 30% less on average.

I have an engine an older p5 really. The sleeve was pinched but it was pinched too much. Any ideas on how to rectify that guys.

Handlap piston

send it to RayAracing. He'll fix it.

+1

I have had good luck fixing them. e-mail me at [email protected]

Rex

The best in the biz ,undisputed

I'm not sure if this was asked already but I just bought a bonito and was wondering how the orion/werks 2013 pipe would work? I know people will say get a nova pipe which I will soon but I'm just tryin to use what I have for now, also how's the run time on the bonito in a losi 3.0 truggy?

2013 works great on most novarossi engines actually

I also have a picco pipe 2120, which one do you think would work better on the bonito?

2013

If you are gonna buy a nova pipe get 9853ss pipe 41005 header

trust me

Ok thanks but please explain why, thank you

Because,lol

You can buy whatever you like, im not trying to sell you anything

I know novarossi like not too many people in this world do

If u like a screamer, u won't be disappointed in spending the money.

If u want boring I can't help ya.:sneaky:

Um ok thanks for explaining

Houston I was actually wanting to know that setup you recommend is a bottom/mid/top end or all around setup, NOT this is what you want to go with trust me! Lmfao

imo this is THE TRUGGY setup

it rips from very very bottom to screamin top ,good run times , no querky tuning issues

i know some people will tell u get the 9886/41001 , im not gonna comment on that setup but i personally would never put that on my car unless there is some 400' straight with no jumps or bashing in a field :blush::tire:

hey got the novarossi roma .25 truggy engine replaced the rear bearing with a boca ceramic.

and i just checked it all after racing on the weekend and when i do up the clutch nut tight.

the crank rubs on the other of the rear bearing causing friction.

i tried retightening the bearing in case it wasnt seated properly, same thing the spin of the flywheel feels friction.

bearing size 14 x 25.8 x 6mm

IMO the 41005 manifold is terrible on a Bonito...kills off all its snap and power, especially the bottom end ! terrible performance IMO and the wrong manifold for this engine... Maybe if your on a slippery track and want to take away the bottom end snap then use 41005, but if you run on a high bite and want full power use a 41001 or 41019.. After that a 9886 has the most bottom end kick, the 9853 was OK and the 2084 was horrid ! Bonito's love short manifolds, gives them their best bottom end...long manifolds on this engine kill off all the bottom end..... IMO the 9853/41005 combo would only be suitable if your looking to tame the power for a slippery track surface, it would be useless on a high bite surface ....

Opinions are like.....well you know ,we alll have em :lol:

keep off 21-7xl
 

Hi guys,

I'm running a keep off 21-7 in my buggy and have been using a jp-4 exhaust so far.

What would be the best pipe and manifold combination for the buggy and would a different combination work better for a truggy. The engine will be used in both, Just want the best combo for both.

Many thanks

pro setups
 

Why would almost every pro driver run a 9901/41021 or 2096/41021 pipeset on nearly EVERY nova engine made

Fyi , i have turned a few "PRO" drivers onto 9853/41005 setup and every one was like " why was i running the other pipe on my truck?"

This does happen sometimes when replacing engine bearings. I would venture to guess the pressure applied to seat the rear bearing might've pressed the front bearing in just a tad. No worries, install a 7x9mm washer or shim behind your flywheel collet. Try Ofna 10099 clutch shim kit http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...roducts_id=852

Thats because the 9853 is not EFRA/IFMAR leagal. It has not been for many many MANY years. That is why the PRO drives does not use it.... Outside the US anyway .-)

delete

yes tried installing 1 then 2 shims behind the collet.

same thing seems the outer part of the crank is rubbing the outer race of the bearing.

i tried installing the o.s xzb crank to check this and tightened up clutch nut real tight and it was loose and spins free.

looking for a fix on this engine. ( i dont recall checking this when original bearing installed so i am unsure)