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Originally Posted by mjealey
(Post 10615857)
Novarossi P5xlt from Clockwork Racing, OFNA 086 or Nova 9886 pipe to go with it. If you are wanting to save some money you can get bone stock P5 and OFNA pipe for under $300. P5 from Clockwork yields much longer run time and better powerband though. I am really diggin the OFNA 086 pipe and hearder, and and for $50 it is a steal!!! Runs very well in my Mugen with over 10 minute run time in my MBX6t!
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Well
Originally Posted by Luckylouse
(Post 10615200)
Last of the pics... sorry for the abundance of shots...
Buku Clutch Attachment 908877 Crank Attachment 908876 Clutch Bell Attachment 908878 |
Originally Posted by Luckylouse
(Post 10615150)
One more thought on the flame out.. I'm running the Buku Clutch with Ceramic pads. I just inspected the Clutch Bell and there is already a good grove in it. This is after about 1/2 Gallon. The Springs are set at stock meaning they are set very soft. Could the Flame out be caused by early engagement of the clutch on load? The Track was mostly clay. I would consider VERY high traction and I was using New Super Soft Gridirons that were hooking up like mad. Sorry for the rookie type questions but I don't want to leave any rock unturned on this one..
How stable is the idle? |
Originally Posted by PERROTTO
(Post 10616176)
A friend of mine running Mugen recently switch to the buku clutch and he was having problems flaming out after the clutch install. This was at the Nitro Challenge a couple months ago and Monty was in attendance so he there right away to help. He found out he had some clearance issue between the buku flywheel and the brake pads which was causing the engine to stall when they made contact. From what ive heard about the buku clutch, you are supposed to tighten the clutch after the first few runs because the heat will weaken the springs slightly. the picture of your clutch doesnt really indicate that it was rubbing on anything but its just something to keep in mind.... The engine internals look very good as they should with less than 2 gallons through it and the seal on the top of the piston looks immaculate.
How stable is the idle? I literally has the same thing this past weekend except with a Werks clutch in My MBX6t. I put the motor in the truggy for the first time. Only thing different from previous runs in the buggy was the pipe and clutch. In buggy I was running 9886 and stock Mugen clutch, truggy I run OFNA 086 and tried Werks "light" clutch. Motor would die with no rhyme or reason in the truggy. Could not figure it out at all. Took clutch off, shimmed correctly, bearings like brand new. So I threw on a spare Mugen clutch and the problem was solved. Ran for 45 minutes straight and ran much better for some reason on stock clutch and did not touch anything else. Do not know why but the CRE P5 did not like the Werks clutch at all!!!!!! Sounds like you might be suffering from the same symptom as I was. |
Originally Posted by PERROTTO
(Post 10616176)
A friend of mine running Mugen recently switch to the buku clutch and he was having problems flaming out after the clutch install. This was at the Nitro Challenge a couple months ago and Monty was in attendance so he there right away to help. He found out he had some clearance issue between the buku flywheel and the brake pads which was causing the engine to stall when they made contact. From what ive heard about the buku clutch, you are supposed to tighten the clutch after the first few runs because the heat will weaken the springs slightly. the picture of your clutch doesnt really indicate that it was rubbing on anything but its just something to keep in mind.... The engine internals look very good as they should with less than 2 gallons through it and the seal on the top of the piston looks immaculate.
How stable is the idle? |
Originally Posted by mjealey
(Post 10616271)
I literally has the same thing this past weekend except with a Werks clutch in My MBX6t. I put the motor in the truggy for the first time. Only thing different from previous runs in the buggy was the pipe and clutch. In buggy I was running 9886 and stock Mugen clutch, truggy I run OFNA 086 and tried Werks "light" clutch. Motor would die with no rhyme or reason in the truggy. Could not figure it out at all. Took clutch off, shimmed correctly, bearings like brand new. So I threw on a spare Mugen clutch and the problem was solved. Ran for 45 minutes straight and ran much better for some reason on stock clutch and did not touch anything else. Do not know why but the CRE P5 did not like the Werks clutch at all!!!!!! Sounds like you might be suffering from the same symptom as I was.
Lol... Funny thing is my stock 4btt was sitting in my tool box ready to go with a stock clutch... I should have gone with that one. You live you learn... Stay tuned for my video as I try to get my beast up and running properly... I will give the BUKU 1 more try. |
Originally Posted by Luckylouse
(Post 10616389)
Lol... Funny thing is my stock 4btt was sitting in my tool box ready to go with a stock clutch... I should have gone with that one. You live you learn... Stay tuned for my video as I try to get my beast up and running properly... I will give the BUKU 1 more try.
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Originally Posted by mjealey
(Post 10616434)
I do not know why, and not to bash, but I have tried all of the aftermarket clutches and I keep going back to the stock Mugen.....Most reliable and feels really good. Nice and simple and eliminate any problem in a race!!!!!
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0073-3.jpg |
Yep
Originally Posted by mjealey
(Post 10616434)
I do not know why, and not to bash, but I have tried all of the aftermarket clutches and I keep going back to the stock Mugen.....Most reliable and feels really good. Nice and simple and eliminate any problem in a race!!!!!
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Guys,
A very friendly gentleman from BUKU contacted me and explained what likely happened. After taking a close look at my Clutch Bell I didn't shim it properly and the clutch shoes touched the face of the clutch bell. I didn't notice it right away but there is a grove at the face of the CB and the shoes also show evidence of this. So there you go... as is VERY common in this hobby... USER ERROR! lol Thanks to BUKU and Clockworks for your help and customer satisfaction! Unbelievable customer service... Now let me get this car back together... Video will come shortly.. Also... I'll post pictures of the BUKU diagnostics... Brian was BANG on! |
1 Attachment(s)
Here's the problem... Thanks to Brian from BUKU to point this out... Notice the White line indicating the wearing and of the front face of the clutch bell. When landing hard forward over the triple the clutch shoes wandered ever so slightly with the play in the clutch bell and stalled the engine.
This was due to poor shimming... sometimes it's just back to the basics! Attachment 908993 |
It doesn't take much to stop an engine. You see people do it with their thumbs!
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Originally Posted by mjealey
(Post 10616434)
I do not know why, and not to bash, but I have tried all of the aftermarket clutches and I keep going back to the stock Mugen.....Most reliable and feels really good. Nice and simple and eliminate any problem in a race!!!!!
Hope you get it all figured out luckylouse , lmk if i can ever help ya out brotha |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10617170)
Properly setup aftermarket clutches work very well and can compliment your novarossi engine nicely :nod:
Hope you get it all figured out luckylouse , lmk if i can ever help ya out brotha |
Originally Posted by Semple
(Post 10617139)
It doesn't take much to stop an engine. You see people do it with their thumbs!
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