Punisher Body... 4-BTT Moded with TKO Ceramic for front Bearing.- Crank filled and Sleeve ported... pics to come shortly of the Sleeve.

Glow Plug was a C6 but I also tried the C5 because is was about 60deg outside.

These are Macro Pics of my Sleeve after about 2 Gal. Please keep in mind that these are macro shot so the little lines are microscopic, just like looking through a high-end magnifying glass. Note that you can see the polishing lines going horizontal on some of the shots. That would give you a reference to the magnification. 4 more pics to come.

Attachment 908849

Attachment 908848

Attachment 908847

Attachment 908850

Attachment 908851

Attachment 908854

These last 2 are blurry... took the camera off the tripod.
Attachment 908855

Attachment 908856

It would interesting to get these magnified pics from other Modded Sleeves to compare.

pics of the Piston.

Attachment 908864

Attachment 908862

Attachment 908863

Attachment 908865

Attachment 908861

One more thought on the flame out.. I'm running the Buku Clutch with Ceramic pads. I just inspected the Clutch Bell and there is already a good grove in it. This is after about 1/2 Gallon. The Springs are set at stock meaning they are set very soft. Could the Flame out be caused by early engagement of the clutch on load? The Track was mostly clay. I would consider VERY high traction and I was using New Super Soft Gridirons that were hooking up like mad. Sorry for the rookie type questions but I don't want to leave any rock unturned on this one..

Last of the pics... sorry for the abundance of shots...

Buku Clutch

Attachment 908877

Crank

Attachment 908876

Clutch Bell

Attachment 908878

a low stalled clutch will force you to set the tune very very rich on the low end...which will indeed make the engine more prone to flameouts.....if you try to set the LSN to a safe mixture the engine will develop a lean bog....ultra LOw stall makes the LSN far more difficult to tune

ok.. and a high traction track would magnify this effect right?

LSN was set at about 4-4-1/4 out.

Next step will be reassembly and an HD Video... might not come tonight. We'll see.

Thanks again Neil for your help. BTW... That Clutch came from you on a recommendation... and I love it! When the car was running well the Clutch was very responsive ( maybe too much). I was taking tight corners and running the triple when most of the other drivers needed to take a wider approach...

That Tillsonburg track would have easily killed an engine which was clutched too soft. Too technical, too much time to load up.

hey John, I'm the Respirator guy! Nice to get your input.. Tx. Things are starting to make more sense....

hey Eric.. John is right you most definitely had to clutch it differently than you would at your usual track...

Oh, hey! Yeah, a clutch issue of any kind will definitely kill an engine. If it engages too soon it won't clear out the engine and you'll flame out. T-burg would have been perfect for this, all the off-throttle or low throttle sections coupled with high traction when it was warmer.

you won't be disappointed :nod::sneaky:

Hey fellas,

So I just bought an MBX6-T and I need an engine/pipe combo recomendation. I will be racing it but have very little race experience. I definetly don't need the most horsepower, I'm really looking for something that easily tuned and is reliable. I am not winning the a main any time soon!! Any input will be greatly appreciated!

Novarossi P5xlt from Clockwork Racing, OFNA 086 or Nova 9886 pipe to go with it. If you are wanting to save some money you can get bone stock P5 and OFNA pipe for under $300. P5 from Clockwork yields much longer run time and better powerband though. I am really diggin the OFNA 086 pipe and hearder, and and for $50 it is a steal!!! Runs very well in my Mugen with over 10 minute run time in my MBX6t!