I thought id share a little information and good praise for this engine. First off for the non believers I'm not sponsored by Werks and i don't currently own one.So this is totally unbiased . However I do run the practice night here at my local track so i'm always being asked to help tune and such. Long story short we have a new guy and he was struggling with his truggy and engine combo.He asked me to help him tune his engine . So we started the process and it was way out of wack. 12 hours to lean on the top and lean on the bottom , i'm surprised it even ran . Wrong glow plug too. Anyway after another friend of mine and i tuned it i was impressed. Our new guy asked me to put a tank or 2 at "race pace" so that he could be confident that it was good to go. I ran 3 tanks simulating one of our Saturday night mains and this thing just ripped . Not one issue hiccup or flame . No i didn't ck mileage , i pit at or around 7 period. So in a nutshell it ran great had plenty of power and i got to help a novice driver out . Good product well done .

Nice :nod:

B5 is a great underrated motor. My first nitro buggy motor. It took a ton of abuse and ran great.

Thank you for the report and even more so thank you for just helping out a randow new guy! It's important that we all step up whenever possible and help these guys out as there is a learning curve to nitro which can be a little intimidating at first. If more people were kind enough to do what you did and just take the time to help out a random person experiencing difficulty at an event it will do wonders to the amount of new drivers that stick with the hobby! So again complments to you for what you did :nod:

No problem , We as a club AZRCR out here at fear farm are trying to really help all new drivers . We even started asking experienced drivers to pit with all new drivers for their first day . So far its working well and we have had 2 full heats of novice for the last 3 months. I also encourage all of you to do this as well. Its the only way we will continue to grow our relatively small racing community.

If anyone is interested...


http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ks-b5-pro.html

""I just set the HS and LS flush with the end of the housing, set the air gap so that the slide is open 1-1.5mm and fire the engine up. How it idles immediately tells me if the LS needle is too lean or rich so I set this""

When I read that , is the 1 - 1.5 with the reducer out ? I have been assuming yes . Also , my rubber boot isn't letting my slide sit on the slide / idle stop screw . Is this a normal thing on a brand new engine ?

Hi, the air gap settings are allways with the reducer out. The 1 to 1.5mm setting is a large setting which will allow you to run the engine really rich which is what you want when you start break in.

In regards to the rubber boot, they are allways a little stiff when new and with the acordian shape to the boot they tend to stay open a little. However you allways want to run a rubber band or throttle return spring on the slide plus you should have the linkage installed to the servo which should easily hold the slide shut.

Hope this helps!

Ron. I really really need your help.
I'm an experienced engine guy and know my way around these little monsters.
I'm currently on my fifth or sixth Werks, this being my first Pro (B5)
What happens is that the engine would suddenly die in mid air or right after mid air.
Right when I would like to apply throttle I realize there is no power and the engine has died.
I have had this problem quite a while now and have narrowed it down to being withing the engine itself.
I have tried everything I can imagine and eliminated the following:
Tank
Air filter
Pipe / header
Glow plug
Clutch / bell
Fuel line
Pressure line
The last thing I tested on the track was to put MY engine in a friends car.
What I moved was starting with the filter and all the way to the pipe, including clutch.
Same thing happened in his car. The engine just dies in mid air ir perhaps when I'm about to land and applies throttle.

I'm at a loss here and just ordered a new front bearing for the 1.5 gallon old engine (Byron GenII) to try!
I will try ANYTHING you ask me to (if I haven't tried it already)
If you want to do this through PM it's fine.

First please check to confirm that the engine has compression. Lack of compression in a motor is the number one cause of flame outs. If that is ok please take a look at the idle and confirm that you have the stop set properly and that the linkage is not holding the slide open at idle until i.e. you press the brakes at which point it is closing more. If that is ok take a look at your LS as you may be running a slightly rich bottom end which can cause the engine to load up or after running for a while once you smooth out in driving your engine will start to cool off, having a slightly rich bottom end to start will then result in a reduction in idle speed often resulting in a flame out too. Please check those items if you would and let me know what you find.

Thank you for responding so quick.
Part of this problem is that I have tried almost everything.
So these things I have also tried. I don't mean to come of rude by just saying I already tried it. Also forgive me if I use the wrong phrasing or words since English is not my native language.

The engine has very good compression. I can turn the fly wheel if I hold the engine in my hands but I have to make some effort to it.

I have taken the carb apart and cleaned it inside out and also retuned it from stock setting. Both needles flush with housing and started with the HS and then worked my way down to LS. Idle is set to aprox. .8 with reducer out.
I can actually tune very lean on the LS to the point I get erratic high idle and then the problem disappears but the I have to go very lean for this to help.

The engine idles perfect and has good power all around.
Temps are at a steady 100 C (212F) and raises slightly at the end of a tank.

The linkage is OK. It was the first thing I checked when this problem started.
I run the Losi 8ight 3.0 and they are know for this issue because they have a slight weird angle for the throttle / servo alignment.
So when I look down the carb the throttle return smooth and fine all the way. I use the return spring.

One thing I failed to mention is:
Often when this problem shows I can swap out the glow plug and it will be fine for a while, perhaps that day but the problem returns next practice.
Like when I cleaned the whole carb, changed the tank for a new one and swapped the clutch I also put in a new plug (Werks #5) and the engine worked fine for a few hours.

I'm very grateful for your help since I'm not sure what to do next.
I have a working B5 (non pro) if that helps (trying different parts???)

If you would please try reducing your air gap a few 10th of a mm to somewhere around 0.5mm. Doing that will result in you needing to lean the LS which may again help with the issue. Try that and let me know what happens.

Also swapping parts is not going to make a difference imho. Generally what I have found over the years is that either an engine is broken (as in defective) or it is not. It is highly unusual for an engine to work fine for a while and then to start having problems, then you change one thing (the glow plug) and it works fine for a while and then starts having problems again. Hearing that would lead me to look at two things. First when this starts to happen check the glow plug element for signs of coil deformation or distortion which would indicate a potential compression issue. Distortion or deposits on the element can also indicate a fuel contamination issue which I think may be likely in this case. So please also try swapping brands of fuel as a test and then let me know if the same thing still happens.

Regards,

Ron

I will for sure try reducing the gap to .5 and lean out the LS a bit.

I have just opened a new gallon of Byron and unfortunately I can't try any other brands.
I can't get a hold of anything else than Byron.
Although it would be nice to try Werks 30% thats impossible where I live.
Please also remember I have had this issue on and off since a month back I thought I solved it when I cleaned the carb and retuned.
So if it WOULD be the fuel, which is possible, that would mean at least three gallons would be contaminated so I think we can rule that out.

I have taken the engine apart just to check and I had a front bearing laying so I changed that and everything looks very very nice inside the engine. Strong compression, no marks, no excessive build up of carbon residue other a thin layer on top of the piston.

One thing i noticed when I cleaned it with pure alcohol is that if i fiddle with the rear bearing there is a noticeable play there, I can even hear it like a ticking sound.
I didn't take it out, just hrrm... fingered it *SMILE*
When i put a dab of oil in I couldn't feel the play anymore and the sound was gone.
Could a bad bearing destroy glow plugs due to vibration or similar?

Well I think that you just answered your own question about what is wrong lol. Change the rear bearing. Vibrations from one going out can damage plugs but it's more likely small metal particles coming off of the bearing contaminating the glow plug.

I was unsure if this play was normal. Since bearings have a certain play for heat expansion.
Do you think this is too much play? Should I really be able too feel the play with my finger like that?
I know it's almost impossible for you to answer this but please try.

Can I use the B5 block with good bearings and put every other part from the Pro inside that?
Ordering a bearing takes ages where I live.