So is the general idea that the 2013 is the best all around pipe for the b5? I'm fixing to order at least one b5 and wanted to get the best pipe for it. I had a 2013 on a sirio once and I loved the sound and performance.

Yes the 2013 or th 2057 are the choices from everyone. Amain hobbies should have the Werks 2013 this week I'm not sure of the 2057.:nod::nod::nod:

+1 :)2013 and 2057 best for the b5 A-Main should have the new 2057 in stock this week along with the 2013.

Thinking about ordering a werks clutch for my b5 in my mbx6, which shoes are u using mostly?

Thanks I've already got the 2013 on b/o from Amain so I will order the 2057 as well . I don't recdall seeing the part # for the 2057 do youi have it or is it listed?:):)

Need some help

I had an engine go bad on me (not a B-5) right before the nitro challenge in AZ.

I am going to order a B-5 right now and have amain overnight it.

I will only have 1 day to break this in. The following day will be all out racing.

I read the break in recommendation on the first page but I do not have that much time.

How can I break this thing in quickly???????????

Oh and my pipe options that I have is the 053 or the losi re-11. Which one out of these would you recommend?

I have to pick from the above pipes.

Order has been placed. This b-5 is going to get some nitro pit action on Friday. This one will be for my Son.

I hope he likes his new mill!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

can u update on the break in,.cuz i just got the b7 pro c and want to know how the break in was....

i use 053 in both buggy and truggy. works great

Wow!
 

Hey guys, just put a 1 gallon old B5 in my RC8 (thanks Markhat) and all I've got to say is WOW! This thing is ballistic fast, almost scary w/ a 17 tooth clutchbell which is standard. This engine has the old style carb and the needles aren't as tight but seem to hold their position. I richened up the lsn and closed the idle gap to get the idle down while still maintaining 'bat outta hell' takeoff. I can't wait to get to Motorama and get this baby on a track. Also really looking forward to the B5 in my RC8T being fully broken in and getting this kinda performance in my truggy:)!

The 053 will Work better than the re-11. The re-11 really kills the power Unless thats what you like?

I had to break in a B5 in 2 days before a race and I did a quick break in on it also. I currently have 5 gallons on it and it still has good compression.

This was was what I did for my short break in( Its better to take time but I did not have time)

I just heat cycled it on the bench for 2 tanks, the head was covered, engine was heated with heat gun prior to starting everytime ran for 5 minutes, then cooled, then started over. did that fr the first 2 tanks on the bench. Then i put it on the ground and tuned it to where it was rich but not too rich to where it was hard to get moving. I drove it arund gently giving it short smoth 1/4 throttle pulls not letting it rev to much.

I did that for 4 tanks after each tank leaned it slightly, and each tank let it rev a little more.I let it col between tanks. and heated with heat gun before started. After the 4th tank it was pretty much tuned. not totallyraced tuned but pretty close but lean enough to run good and creat crisp power.

I raced it all weekend, ran great and like I said I have 5 gallons currently one that B5 and it still hase good cmpression.

Thats actually pretty much was was done on my b-5 from last year and it runs great... so if you are going to do a quick break in I would recommend to do what heidmann1 just stated... obviously not the best way, but as you said you don't really have time...

-DC-

This is a question for the guys running the new 2010 B5. First off the motor is broken in, little more than a gallon through it. Second this thing is ballistic. The thing will run at 230 all day long. The problem Im having with it and one of the guys I race with is having the same problem, Is that it will rev real high for about ten seconds and then drop to a normal idle and will idle all day long. My older B5 does not do this. It will drop to a normal idle and stay there. Ive tried tuning all different ways and get the same results. So has he.Is there anybody else out there that has encountered this, and if so what was the remedy. Thanks in advance........

from what I understand from previous posts is that your idle gap is too big and compensating with too fat on the lowend. Set idle gap to 1mm and then set low end flush, then adjust low end for good idle after engine and chassis is at running temp. hope this helps