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-   -   The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/319017-new-werks-b5-21-racing-engine.html)

Toiffel 07-15-2010 07:09 AM


Originally Posted by blktransam (Post 7673780)
WOW...speechless...if a PM was sent whats the need to post in the forum as well?....ignorance...

Ryan

maybe he just felt that he could share it on a public forum????!!!! Don't think there was any harm intended...... Can you say Internet Police!!!!!

Mo Denton 07-15-2010 07:10 AM

I will take one apart and take more pics,
Its actually not like the losi clutch, it has a different style shoes, springs, and retainer and assembly process. Not to mention cheaper!!! Lol
Not to mention will last 3 times longer than a losi clutch.
Those are 32mm but there are also 34mm also.

kgombe 07-15-2010 07:11 AM


Originally Posted by Toiffel (Post 7673874)
maybe he just felt that he could share it on a public forum????!!!! Don't think there was any harm intended...... Can you say Internet Police!!!!!

thats what i was thinking.. its funny maybe every should just send all comments whether it be good or bad in PM.. he meant no harm... look at his previous post.. he is a good guy and an avid supporter of werks

blktransam 07-15-2010 07:29 AM

not saying hes a "bad" guy but whats the point of posting it in the forum AND sending a pm...no internet police here, I am sure Ron will take care of this issue at hand no questions asked...

kgombe 07-15-2010 07:37 AM


Originally Posted by blktransam (Post 7673956)
no internet police here, ...

:confused::confused: ... seems like you are the forum police here...
:eek:

blktransam 07-15-2010 07:42 AM

and how is that?...because I asked why he posted on the thread after he sent a pm already?...you make zero since with that statement

jay5280 07-15-2010 07:56 AM

Need some help guys. I have B5 with the updated carb. It was running great through about 3 gallons. Then at the Nats during my main my clunk broke inside my tank. It didn't blow up or go to pieces but it looked like the filter part just came off the little metal tube that goes in the fuel line. I ended running about 3 or 4 more laps until I pulled the car. Not sure how hot it got but it was def HOT. It would drive ok until I'd hit a big jump or bump which would cause the fuel line to get air instead of fuel.

Ok now the issue I'm having is holding a steady idle once the engine gets up to temp. I'm worried that the engine might be done b/c its acting alot like an old engine. It will idle good but once it gets hot the idle will hold for 7-10 seconds then drop off quickly and want to die. I've messed with the settings and it seems to react the same way no matter if the bottom is fat or lean. Also tried new tank and plug.

I raced it last weekend at the same track and had two flame outs. Then I did some testing in the backyard yesterday(sick home track) and it was still having the idle issues.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Razathorn 07-15-2010 08:07 AM


Originally Posted by jay5280 (Post 7674042)
Need some help guys. I have B5 with the updated carb. It was running great through about 3 gallons. Then at the Nats during my main my clunk broke inside my tank. It didn't blow up or go to pieces but it looked like the filter part just came off the little metal tube that goes in the fuel line. I ended running about 3 or 4 more laps until I pulled the car. Not sure how hot it got but it was def HOT. It would drive ok until I'd hit a big jump or bump which would cause the fuel line to get air instead of fuel.

Ok now the issue I'm having is holding a steady idle once the engine gets up to temp. I'm worried that the engine might be done b/c its acting alot like an old engine. It will idle good but once it gets hot the idle will hold for 7-10 seconds then drop off quickly and want to die. I've messed with the settings and it seems to react the same way no matter if the bottom is fat or lean. Also tried new tank and plug.

I raced it last weekend at the same track and had two flame outs. Then I did some testing in the backyard yesterday(sick home track) and it was still having the idle issues.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Clutch.

Quad Racer 34 07-15-2010 08:11 AM

I don't think it's the clutch. If it was, I don't think it would idle that long. Sounds like something is messed up with the engine. Maybe it got way too hot. Does it still have good compression when you turn the flywheel over? with the plug in.

Guys lets stop cluttering up the thread with pointless stuff...:rolleyes:

Mo Denton 07-15-2010 08:14 AM


Originally Posted by liquidkool (Post 7673853)
Hey i hate to say this but that clutch looks like a polished up LOSI !?!? Whats the price on them? And when are they going to be available? I run a xray flywheel, maxlife shoes, and ofna gold springs in my XT8. What would be a suitable alternative with the werks setup?

BTW i run a B5 with a orion 2013

I run the lightweight flywheel on my truggy with 1.0 springs all around.
I dont run my truggy that often but it does have
rcpro series event with 45 minute main
trophy club race with 30 minute main
2010 AMS with 30 minute main
RCPRO series with 35 minutes of a 45 minute main (throttle servo) (thanks Dan!!)
Club race with 20 minute main.
and all that on the same clutch never taken out of the truggy.
I really only run truggy at big races but I also have some odd and end runs here and there on top of those listed.
I think thats pretty good life out of a clutch. and I dont plan to take it out yet either, I have the OH RCPRO race net weekend, the OHIO STATE FAIR race a week after that and the RCPRO finals the week after that. so we will see if I need to change it between now and then!!!

Razathorn 07-15-2010 08:14 AM


Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34 (Post 7674117)
I don't think it's the clutch. If it was, I don't think it would idle that long. Sounds like something is messed up with the engine. Maybe it got way too hot. Does it still have good compression when you turn the flywheel over? with the plug in.

Guys lets stop cluttering up the thread with pointless stuff...:rolleyes:

When I last seized a clutch bearing, that's what mine did. It loaded up faster because the clutch had some static drag, then when it loaded up, bam, dead.

Quad Racer 34 07-15-2010 08:16 AM


Originally Posted by Razathorn (Post 7674130)
When I last seized a clutch bearing, that's what mine did. It loaded up faster because the clutch had some static drag, then when it loaded up, bam, dead.

oh okay gotchya. Well :lol: I would check the clutch then before you give up on it.

blktransam 07-15-2010 08:17 AM

also if the engine is ran really hot/lean and can damage the glow plug. have you tried a new plug? od97t,p3,werks5?...what are the current needle settings and idle gap?...if it acts up only when up to temp it may be time for a new p/s or have the current one snugged up...

Ryan

sluggo_sx8 07-15-2010 08:18 AM


Originally Posted by jay5280 (Post 7674042)
Need some help guys. I have B5 with the updated carb. It was running great through about 3 gallons. Then at the Nats during my main my clunk broke inside my tank. It didn't blow up or go to pieces but it looked like the filter part just came off the little metal tube that goes in the fuel line. I ended running about 3 or 4 more laps until I pulled the car. Not sure how hot it got but it was def HOT. It would drive ok until I'd hit a big jump or bump which would cause the fuel line to get air instead of fuel.

Ok now the issue I'm having is holding a steady idle once the engine gets up to temp. I'm worried that the engine might be done b/c its acting alot like an old engine. It will idle good but once it gets hot the idle will hold for 7-10 seconds then drop off quickly and want to die. I've messed with the settings and it seems to react the same way no matter if the bottom is fat or lean. Also tried new tank and plug.

I raced it last weekend at the same track and had two flame outs. Then I did some testing in the backyard yesterday(sick home track) and it was still having the idle issues.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Was the idle perfect before this happened? Normally a 2 stage idle is due to a rich low end or idle gap to high, Also try changing out the plug to a new one. Some times they get messed up when they get hot.

jay5280 07-15-2010 08:19 AM

To be honest that is about the only thing I haven't checked yet. But it was pretty new clutch, bearings(i change my clutch bearing pretty much everytime i pull the end bell off) and end bell prior to this last race. So I really don't think that will be it but that is my next plan. I'm going to give it a good clean and see what happens.


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