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-   -   The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/319017-new-werks-b5-21-racing-engine.html)

DPowers 04-30-2010 09:27 AM

2057 for sure.

sjracing 04-30-2010 10:24 AM


Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7339120)
Looking good! Let us know what you think once you get some fuel through it!!!

Looking to get into 1/8 buggy racing..It will be our first nitro buggy..As of right now we are leaning towards a HB D8..Also looking at the Werks motor..We are in the Denver area at or above 5000 feet..Thoughts on this motor for a newbie at this elevation...also which pipe would work best here...Thanks in advance..

Werks 04-30-2010 10:57 AM


Originally Posted by sjracing (Post 7342128)
Looking to get into 1/8 buggy racing..It will be our first nitro buggy..As of right now we are leaning towards a HB D8..Also looking at the Werks motor..We are in the Denver area at or above 5000 feet..Thoughts on this motor for a newbie at this elevation...also which pipe would work best here...Thanks in advance..

The B5 is a simple engine to break in and tune, so I would say it is new user friendly. Just take a look at my break in guide and tuning instructions that are in this thread and it will basically walk you through everything. If you follow that system there is virtually no way for you to go wrong as far as tuning of the motor is concerned. For the rest I would go with the 2013 pipe set at that elevation. There are guys running them in Colorado that I have spoken with and they are all happy with the performance, so no issues there either. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron

bigsmitty 04-30-2010 11:15 AM

Thanks guys, went with the B5 and 2057 pipe for now. Sound like it would go better with my driving style more than the 2013. Got them on order.:nod:

Quad Racer 34 04-30-2010 11:21 AM

little update:

when setting the air gap 2-2.5mm i had to richen crap out of it to get it to idle good! the needle seems pretty far out there. is that ok?
its around 80degrees here and its running at 140 degrees blipping it in small figure eights on the 2nd tank.

Thanks,
Dylan

DPowers 04-30-2010 11:31 AM


Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34 (Post 7342319)
little update:

when setting the air gap 2-2.5mm i had to richen crap out of it to get it to idle good! the needle seems pretty far out there. is that ok?
its around 80degrees here and its running at 140 degrees blipping it in small figure eights on the 2nd tank.

Thanks,
Dylan

I believe it is .5 gap about the thickness of a credit card and set your HSN and LSN to flush u can go back and look thru Rons tunning method it works really good.

bacchus 04-30-2010 11:34 AM


Originally Posted by alexrckid (Post 7339145)
i race a B5/orion 2013 combo w/a 14 tooth bell in a 8t-2.0.......absolutely a fantastic combo in this truggy...........

Why the 14 tooth CB? The stocker is 13 tooth.

Razathorn 04-30-2010 11:44 AM


Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7342237)
The B5 is a simple engine to break in and tune, so I would say it is new user friendly.

Coming from O.S., I would have to say that the one thing that kinda got me was how much further you can lean the HSN on the b5 after it starts running well -- there is much more of an operating range on the HSN between fumbling rich and too lean. On my v-spec, after you got off of fumbling rich, you had a few hours and you were ideal, then another 2 hours or so and you were too hot. On the b5, after you get off of fumbling rich, it runs well, at least for me it did, granted while pouring out smoke, for upwards of an entire turn or more leaner before you hit peak power or are in danger of temps running away. I've been running the motor far too rich on the top because I would stop leaning a little after it began running clean at wide open, not realizing it would keep getting faster and snappier with the temps only raising slightly. There was a lot of power I had no idea I was missing.

Quad Racer 34 04-30-2010 11:45 AM


Originally Posted by DPowers (Post 7342343)
I believe it is .5 gap about the thickness of a credit card and set your HSN and LSN to flush u can go back and look thru Rons tunning method it works really good.

ok. at the beginning it says 2-2.5 gap for the first tank. then once you get towards the end you want abot .5 but i love this motor so far! cant wait to be able to put a decent tune on it!

Werks 04-30-2010 04:35 PM


Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34 (Post 7342379)
ok. at the beginning it says 2-2.5 gap for the first tank. then once you get towards the end you want abot .5 but i love this motor so far! cant wait to be able to put a decent tune on it!

Just crank the idle open initially just making sure that it is not open so far that the slide binds. How much exactly this is, is not critical. You just want to pump the maximum amount of air and fuel through the engine as possible. Keep in mind that after each tank that is run you will be reducing the air gap a bit and leaning the needles a bit at the same time. If after you have reduced the air gap and leaned your HS a few hours you still find that the idle is low just lean your LS a few hours until it is smooth and steady. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron

Quad Racer 34 04-30-2010 04:51 PM

thanks ron, break in went great! i got 9 tanks through it today. still need to do a couple more before i put a race tune on it but so far its amazing! i still need to lean the low speed needle though. it has a reaallly low idle. so ill do that tomorrow hopefully along with leaning the top a little. the highest temp it got up too was 204 and it was slightly rich still. so this thing is going to be craaazzzzy at a race tune haha. cant wait. I will be buying another towards the end of this season. i like it that much!

Werks 04-30-2010 06:00 PM


Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34 (Post 7343295)
thanks ron, break in went great! i got 9 tanks through it today. still need to do a couple more before i put a race tune on it but so far its amazing! i still need to lean the low speed needle though. it has a reaallly low idle. so ill do that tomorrow hopefully along with leaning the top a little. the highest temp it got up too was 204 and it was slightly rich still. so this thing is going to be craaazzzzy at a race tune haha. cant wait. I will be buying another towards the end of this season. i like it that much!

Not a problem! I think that you should be pleased with this one, I think a lot of people underestimate the amount of power a B5 produces. So if it feels good now just wait till you get it up to race tune!!!

Regards,

Ron

alexrckid 04-30-2010 07:21 PM

bacchus.......
 
the b5 easily carries the 14t bell....my tracks main straight's 180feet long....

heidmann1 04-30-2010 11:03 PM


Originally Posted by Razathorn (Post 7342377)
Coming from O.S., I would have to say that the one thing that kinda got me was how much further you can lean the HSN on the b5 after it starts running well -- there is much more of an operating range on the HSN between fumbling rich and too lean. On my v-spec, after you got off of fumbling rich, you had a few hours and you were ideal, then another 2 hours or so and you were too hot. On the b5, after you get off of fumbling rich, it runs well, at least for me it did, granted while pouring out smoke, for upwards of an entire turn or more leaner before you hit peak power or are in danger of temps running away. I've been running the motor far too rich on the top because I would stop leaning a little after it began running clean at wide open, not realizing it would keep getting faster and snappier with the temps only raising slightly. There was a lot of power I had no idea I was missing.


+1:)
This makes for a Large tuning window and you are right:) The B5 runs very good even if the tune is not Spot on. unlike others where you have to be within a coule hours of a perfect ttune to get good power. The B5 can be on the rich side and and still crank out the power.....

merdith6 05-01-2010 01:17 AM

Great advice
 

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7343248)
Just crank the idle open initially just making sure that it is not open so far that the slide binds. How much exactly this is, is not critical. You just want to pump the maximum amount of air and fuel through the engine as possible. Keep in mind that after each tank that is run you will be reducing the air gap a bit and leaning the needles a bit at the same time. If after you have reduced the air gap and leaned your HS a few hours you still find that the idle is low just lean your LS a few hours until it is smooth and steady. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron

Its just how it's done right...I find that too many racers lean the top too much, then richen the bottom until it has to be reved to keep running, then the idle gap is too high to keep it running. Great advice man....


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