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Ron,

I just started breaking in my B5 yesterday and I am very impressed with how it's running already. I know this engine will be better than my B7, which I really loved.

Have you ever heard of the idle needle being bent from the factory? I had to richen up the bottom after first start-up. Then I had to turn the idle needle to get the idle back up. After doing so, the carb slide started sticking!

Not a big deal. I just took the needle out of my B7 carb. That was the only time I turned the idle needle. But it was bent enough to make the slide stick.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCathey (Post 7089932)

No, I've never heard of it but I guess anything is possible. PM me your address if you would like and I'll send you another idle stop screw for your B7-Pro.

Regards,

Ron

Quote:

Originally Posted by revo7617 (Post 7086371)

Hy Ron, thanks for your reply.

First of all, excuse my english, Im from Mexico, LOL, so Ill try to explain myself as clear as I can.

I found that the "carb Adjuster" is called the Carb Retainer, with O-Rings on both sides. One of those came broken, like a "C" shape. I just put another one, and fits a little tight, but nothig to worry about.

The second Issue is the carb not sitting flush to the block of the engine. Between the oring and the block, there's like 4mm. I pushed hard enough to the point my finger had marks of the restrictor.

Having that problem, I decided to open the box of my other new B5, to check if the carbs had to be that apart from the block, and my surprise was that the 2nd engine and the carb sit perfect, so I checked the 1rst carb with the 2nd engine and sits perfect. So the problem was the first engine.

I put both carbs in the first engine and they don t fit right (4mm upper than they should be).

I checked both carbs and are exactly the same dimensions. The white insulation plastic is exactly in the same position, flush to the alloy material.

So, I decided to remove about 2mm of the white material in the end of it (like a cone) with a hobby knife, after that, the carb sits perfect in the 1rst engine.

Hope I was clear enough, LOL.

Hello Juan,

Thank you for clarifying things. The carb retainer also known as a carb pinch bolt has two o-rings on it, one on each end as you mentioned that fit into a groove machined into the two aluminum halves of the bolt. Then the part is bagged with the collet and exhaust gasket. Because the o-ring is not inside of anything there is no way for it to be held in place so it's obviously impossible for some one at the factory to take a broken o-ring and some how stick it around the pinch bolt half. If I was to take a guess I would think that possibly during shipping the edge of the collet rubbed against the o-ring nicking it.

Now regarding the issue that you described with the carb sitting flush I've given this some thought. First all of the cases are machined the same way and specifically the depth or cut for the carb base into the case is done in a single machine operation, meaning that if this was not done properly there simply would not be a hole there. After looking at things for a bit what I think happened in your case is that the o-ring at the bottom of the carb base opening which sits in a groove machined into the case was simply not fully seated which made it difficult for you to push the carb all the way down. If any of you ever see this issue just take a pencil or another soft blunt object and run it around the o-ring inside of the case. This will seat the o-ring in the groove it sits in and you should be good to go. Should not take more than 5 or 6 seconds to do this.

Regards,

Ron

Thanks guys for the advise, but I had already read those comments.

Ive been racing for 5 years, and never have issues building my engines, but this was strange.

I did lub the carb with wd40, pushed hard to make it sit properly, but there was no way to make it down enough.

But dont you think I remove to much material, I think it was like 1mm or less, and then it sits down in the block.

The weird thing was both carbs fits perfectly in my 2nd new engine, and both carbs doesnt fit in the 1rst new B5.

There is no big deal (i Guess, lol), because both engines fire it up right away, and no trouble during tank #1.

to make the carb seat all the way down, you have to twist the carb back and forth while pushing down.

Been there, done that. No results. LOL.

Ron,

Thanks for the offer, but it's okay.

My B7 has gone to a better place...:lol: Up to little engine heaven

I ran a good amount of fuel through the B5 today and it really rips! Oh man the power!! :nod:

To anyone out there thinking about trying a Werks B5, you will not be disappointed....

hey ron i have a question about the carb seating as well, i just received my new b5 from amain today and went to put the carb in..wow that puppy is tight..anyhoo i too can not get it all the way down...now im not sure how "flush" its supposed to sit i have refenced it to a few motors i have axial/ofna... and it looks like you can still see the top or first o-ring between the carb and the block...its squished between the 2 but theres a tiny gap between the carb n block...is that normal or should it be metal to metal and not be able to see possible the oring a tiny bit.. im talkin maybe 1mm or less...prolly less

Lol, I come in this thread and I don't think I've read one problem with this engine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by trickedout (Post 7093480)

You should be good. You could leave it like that or if you take that top o-ring off, the carb should be completely flush. I believe the o-ring at the base of the block does most of the engine sealing. I am not running the top o-ring and my motor has been fine.

Thanks

Adam Kasch

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adim_X (Post 7094118)

I'll said the same thing, this carbs have a very tight fit, or try a little of WD-40 and try again is not going to hurt anything.GL

ya i undestand just didnt know if it sits perfectly flush..i will pull it out and try to seat the bottom o-ring frist and give it another try..if not ill just see how it goes with the tiny 1mm or so gap and maybe try to seat it again when the motor is at temp

There will be a gap between the actual blck and the carb. The o ring is in between and it is not suppsed to dissapear just "squish" like you said. you can run it without the top o-ring and then the carb will be completly against the case. The bottom O-Ring does the sealing, Just lube up the bottom o-ring and it will help the carb slide down into it easier.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCathey (Post 7093428)

Lol, engine heaven. Well I hope that you enjoy the B5 and please let me know what your thoughts are once you get a couple of gallons through it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by trickedout (Post 7093480)

Hey trickedout, thanks for picking up one of our engines. As the other guys mentioned there is a small o-ring that is slid over the neck of the carb and sits up against the block. Normally carbs do not have this but we put it on as an extra sealing mechanism to stop the possibility of any debris or gunk getting into the area where the carb/block is joined. Basically I decided to do this because it has the same effect as adding air seal that a lot of people like to do without the mess that putting that stuff on creates.

As I mentioned I do not think that anyone else does this so it probably looks a little unusual. In hindsight it probably would have been easier if I chose not to do this (as I would not have so many questions to answer lol) but it works and in my personal opinion offers a better seal and/or solution to adding air seal/silicoln like a lot of people seem to do. If you choose to leave this thin o-ring in, the carb will end up sitting approximately 0.5mm elevated from the block, this is not a problem and is perfectly acceptable. You have the choice of either running this or removing it in which case the carb will sit flush against the block. Again it's 100% up to you, the user on how you want to do this. Hope this helps explain things as well as gives you a better understanding of why it is like this.

Regards,

Ron