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Old 06-22-2006 | 02:22 AM
  #1291  
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Hi there guys,
Just wandering,, i have ran in my Evo3 STI and had 1 club day racing with it, I was told that i should replace the rod NOW. Should I???

Also i was told that people are replacing the Rods with Standard EVO 3 Rods as they are exactly the same and they are cheaper??

Thanks in advance
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Old 06-23-2006 | 02:45 AM
  #1292  
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Originally Posted by KYOSHORACER
Hi there guys,
Just wandering,, i have ran in my Evo3 STI and had 1 club day racing with it, I was told that i should replace the rod NOW. Should I???

Also i was told that people are replacing the Rods with Standard EVO 3 Rods as they are exactly the same and they are cheaper??

Thanks in advance
The conrod should be changed after the break-in when you have leaned your engine. This is mainly caused because during the break-in, the effort made by the conrod is extreme and the materials are surely fatigued (doesn't matter if looks good, changing it is a cheap insurance).

Well... if they made an effort on making a series of blueprinted engines all of them with the exact tolerances is somewhat nonsense to put a non-blueprinted part.
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Old 06-25-2006 | 01:22 AM
  #1293  
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PARTS for STI??????
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Old 06-25-2006 | 05:06 AM
  #1294  
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
PARTS for STI??????
Yep... are available all the parts (crankshaft, conrod, P/S) for the STI with the same tolerances they used to build the engines.
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Old 06-25-2006 | 12:39 PM
  #1295  
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Originally Posted by KYOSHORACER
Hi there guys,
Just wandering,, i have ran in my Evo3 STI and had 1 club day racing with it, I was told that i should replace the rod NOW. Should I???

Also i was told that people are replacing the Rods with Standard EVO 3 Rods as they are exactly the same and they are cheaper??

Thanks in advance
Maybe you can have someone that is experienced with engines take a look at the fit between the conrod and crankpin. He should tell you if you need to replace the rod or not. I have a JP that has over 4 gallons without a rod change. Someone with a machining background checked it out and said the fit was practically like new.
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Old 06-25-2006 | 12:44 PM
  #1296  
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Maybe you can have someone that is experienced with engines take a look at the fit between the conrod and crankpin. He should tell you if you need to replace the rod or not. I have a JP that has over 4 gallons without a rod change. Someone with a machining background checked it out and said the fit was practically like new.
Is not a matter of material wear, is purely a matter of fatigue of materials, after a break-in, the bronze bushing and the aluminium that surrounds the crank pin and the piston pin could be fatigued with micro cracks that can ruin the engine if the material fails.

On a .12 haven't found a conrod (if the engine has had a correct maintenance) that bronze bushing has been worn and needs to be changed. But sometimes sh*t happens and the conrod you saw in perfect shape, shits himself at the backstraight at full throttle and nothing is more scary that hearing your engine and thinking you were deaf suddenly because you don't hear the sound.
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Old 06-25-2006 | 12:48 PM
  #1297  
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Originally Posted by Corse-R
Is not a matter of material wear, is purely a matter of fatigue of materials, after a break-in, the bronze bushing and the aluminium that surrounds the crank pin and the piston pin could be fatigued with micro cracks that can ruin the engine if the material fails.

On a .12 haven't found a conrod (if the engine has had a correct maintenance) that bronze bushing has been worn and needs to be changed. But sometimes sh*t happens and the conrod you saw in perfect shape, shits himself at the backstraight at full throttle and nothing is more scary that hearing your engine and thinking you were deaf suddenly because you don't hear the sound.
Maybe you are right, but I have full confidence in the opinion of the guy who checked it. His screenname on this forum is "Data".
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Old 06-25-2006 | 01:05 PM
  #1298  
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Maybe you are right, but I have full confidence in the opinion of the guy who checked it. His screenname on this forum is "Data".
BTW: Data still computes up to 6th decimal?
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Old 06-26-2006 | 05:59 PM
  #1299  
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anyone know where i can get a crank for my evo 3 and will the sti crank work in the evo 3 .12
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Old 06-26-2006 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by deviltires
anyone know where i can get a crank for my evo 3 and will the sti crank work in the evo 3 .12

for sirio parts try http://www.hobbybug.com/main.htm
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Old 06-26-2006 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by deviltires
anyone know where i can get a crank for my evo 3 and will the sti crank work in the evo 3 .12
Yes, it'll fit.

Just have your local Kyosho dealer order it from Kyosho America.

Dom
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Old 06-28-2006 | 04:29 AM
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How is everyone liking the Sirio Evo 3? What code number or writing on the box will show that it is the Sirio Evo 3 and not the Evo 2? Also what plug would be great for using 30% as I run novarossi number 7 turbo in my 8th.
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Old 06-28-2006 | 04:35 AM
  #1303  
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Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
How is everyone liking the Sirio Evo 3? What code number or writing on the box will show that it is the Sirio Evo 3 and not the Evo 2? Also what plug would be great for using 30% as I run novarossi number 7 turbo in my 8th.
The EVO3 has the words Evo III engraved on their heatsink (look at the previous . I have an STI and with 16% nitro loves the Sirio #6 Cold, with 30%Nitro, surely you may want to use the #7 Cold.

You may take a look at the page 41 one post made by me where I show the several parts of a Evo III STi and look the cooling head (remove the STI and you have the EVO3 head).
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Old 06-28-2006 | 04:37 AM
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Great! Thanks for the fast reply. I think on the box it said SpI or something T3...something like that. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't the Sirio Evo 2 Since they are sealed up. What did the lable say on the box?
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Old 06-28-2006 | 08:50 AM
  #1305  
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Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Great! Thanks for the fast reply. I think on the box it said SpI or something T3...something like that. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't the Sirio Evo 2 Since they are sealed up. What did the lable say on the box?
Since you are in the U.S., the official part# on the box should say

S12T3ISTI

Dom
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