which brand is the centax?

Hi Twiggy, I have found that the way nick sugested to set up a clutch on the sirio pr pro will work very well. Here is my base settings for all 21 engines and then you can change slightly from there for outher engines and track condishions. I run an Evolva and i run 1mm to 1.3mm spring tention on the 4d spring, std unmodified fly weights and fmw 10 gray clutch shoe. I then place the bell on the shaft and shim it so the clutch bell just spins free from the shoe. Then i add 0.5mm worth of shims on top of that to get a Gap of 0.5mm between the clutch shoe and the clutch bell. I then put the bell guide on and thrust bearing and shim it so there is a max end float of 0.2mm and a min of 0.1mm end float for heat expantion. I use to blow thrust bearings like crazy when i set my clutches as the kyosho manual vagely explan's with 0.5mm end float. All your doing by shiming behind the bell is taking the slaping that the trust bearing gets when you set a clutch with big end float. By making reversing that 0.5mm from the thrust bearing side to the clutch shoe/ clutch bell side and 0.1mm end float for heat expantion you taking all the stress off the thrust bearing wile keeping the 0.5mm clutch shoe movement. Once i was showed this by A very good friend all my engines came to life and i have not blown a thrust bearing there after. A centax style clutch is any clutch the same as a mugen mrx 3 4 4r mtx 3 or 4 kyosho 3r all models and kyosho evolva and serpent from 705 up 10th and 8th. They use whats called Fly weights they are the white (on kyosho) nylon bits with holes in them that sit in the flywheel behind the preshure plate. If a clutch has fly weights I class it as a centax style of cluth most use 3 fly weights but mugen and the 4d kyosho optional clutch uses 4 fly weights and a 4 pin flywheel. I hope this helps you I would start at 1mm spring tention depending on what clutch you have and spring you use all the settings above are for an evolva clutch i sugest for a 3r or 3r evo clutch you drop the gap to around 0.3mm and see how that works. I don't run 10th scale so i can not say for shore that that is the best gap size. Also be very cearfull if you run more than 0.5mm gap it sometimes only takes an extra 0.1 or 0.2 mm of gap befor you can edject the fly weights from the clutch. Best Regards Jeremy.

As for the 3r going with .3 gap is going to give you a quicker engagement depending on track conditions .3 to .5 is most common.
I usually start off with the .3 endplay and 1.2 spring tension has been working really good for me & my clutch shoes been really good on wear

Ill try to make this clear when I talk about (Gap) I mean the space between the clutch shoe and the inside of the clutch bell were the clutch shoe contacts when engaged. (Endplay) Is the length of total movement that the clutch bell has when pulled in and out. The kyosho manual tell's you to set 0.5mm (Endplay) what I do is transfer that 0.5mm from (Endplay) into (Gap). You use a combo of gap distance and spring tention to get the desired clutch feel Depending on the type of spring the spring tention distance can veary as much a 1mm because some springs are shorter and some are longer. For a kyosho 4d clutch spring 1mm spring tention is a starting point the gap just delays the engagement further. when people build a clutch with no gap and litle (Endplay) the only thing you have to delay the clutch engagement timing is spring tention. This will do one of 2 things and some times boath rob your engine of paformance and make a very boggy feel to the engine and i have seen people try to make an engine run better by leaning the engine with no gain just unnessary engine ware. The second is you will have to put so much tention on the clutch spring that the clutch will slip that ends up wareing your expencive clutch shoes when they would normaly last a very long time depending on coumpound they are made of. Its a very good idear to have lots of 5x7mm shims to set a clutch kyosho make a shim kit that has 0.1mm 0.2mm and 0.3mm 5x7mm shim's and lots of them I will post the part number soon they are very good and great value for what you get. Best Regards Jeremy.

Hi Alex,

Saw this advice and wondered what you thought about running 20% with a STI Turbo 6 plug in a stock .12 Evo STI. We don't have RunnerTime here. I broke in the engine with 20% Byrons and a 6 and am in the process of acquiring some Werks Racing Fuel. I plan on running 5-6 tanks of Byrons (rich) before the Werks shows up. On the track I run on, we only hit 2nd gear on the one 150' straight, the rest is pretty technical. Here is a picture of the track: click here

I was under the impression, that you can run any plug you want, as long as you can keep the temps down. Any thoughts on this?? What temp are your STIs usually running at?

Thanks for your time,
Rainer

If anybody else has any advice about what plug to run, please feel free to respond. :)

for the conditions down here in australia i have found that the no. 7 plug works the best with 16% nitro. i used to run a 6 but the 7 gave me more power especially out of corners.
i run the 7 plug in my sti's aswell as my evo 3s.

The shim kit # is 96643

I've run 6 and 7, and really, cannot tell any difference! - engines fly with either ( once the tune is right) - Fuel wise, I have used sidewinder 16%, works great..( you can get that there??)


I had a look at your track pictures - fairly small eh?

I'd be gearing pretty low as to allow the engine to get into its power band - 16/61 - 21/56


BTW, which pipe do you run?. - As far as I'm concerned, it's the Sirio 2611 or nothing, simple as that..

Oh, and don't worry about it screaming, they love it!

The kit's default.

Sirio PR PRO
The inside gap(Endplay it calls?) i have 0.5mm and the thrust gap i have 0.1mm.
I use all the parts default.
I use LRP 25% or Kyosho 25% (Should i use Runner Time or Tornado?)
I use the S7 Cold Sirio (Your opinion?)
When you change the conrod and the inside bearings.(I change the big bearing every 4 lt,cause after 4lt the bearings breake and i need to change my piston/liner :cry: )

Any help ?

Best Regards

They have Sidewinder here..

Yeah, it's only 150' x 60' or so. I've got those gears, so I can try them once I see how the engine runs with the stock gears.

I've got the 2611 and a Novarossi 2630. I'll compare the two and see which one gives me the best bottom end.

;)

Guaranteed - the 2611 :nod:

P.S.
do you know Reynold & Bobby? - are they still racing Nitro in Hawaii? ( does Sandy Fleming's shop still exist? )

Yes, I know Bobby and Reynold. Both are still racing Nitro. :)

Sandy Flemmings is still around. I think they started racing 1/12th there. I'm not sure what's up with the F1 crowd.

Any info guys?

I commomnly run #7 year round
as for endplay my starting point is 1.2 on spring load .4 endplay @ .5 I felt a harder shift it is best to start out per manual settings & then do adjustments will you are on the track so you can really feel what settings on your clutch is to your liking.

Martinez first of all thank you for your reply.

Second: The manual tells that must be a gap 0.5mm in the thrust.What is the difference to have this gap inside the cluchbell and only 0.1mm inthe thrust?

Regards