Oh on a side note I also switched to the 7mm insert from the stock 6.5mm that came in the engine. I am running 25% Byrons (Race2500)

I'm reading through and figured I'd jump in and hopefully offer a little help, Sean.

I'm no engine pro but if it was me, and my top shelf engine was acting silly, I would definitely send it to a good engine guy for a full rebuild and a medium pinch... whether it needed it or not. A Toro Nero Team deserves some real love. :nod:

Also, racing engines do have a lifespan like racehorses. At some point they just won't perform when pushed unless you replace everything. It's better to just retire it and buy a new one. Flame outs, big bearing leaks, tank leaks...you've probably overheated it quite a few times...when you take the tine out of the metals it's pretty much game over for that engine. A good engine guy will tell you whether or not you're just "kicking a dead horse."

EDIT: you're a .12 nitro TC Champ so you probably already know this stuff. Didn't mean to insult your intelligence if my input didn't help.

Mark thank you very much for your input, I am in no way insulted as I have never had any of these issues with my 353 when racing on-road. I know a lot of the questions I have been asking are a bit on the noob side but when it comes down to it that's what I am in off-road racing. as for overheating the engine that just didn't happen. I have been very lucky with the engine in that respect as I have never had it over 260 deg, when it dies it just stops. When it is running it is a beast, I have only had this engine for about 3 months and to think it is finished just blows me away, I mean this is a $500 engine and I have yet to really push it to it's limits as I have always been taking it easy on the track as I am still learning how a buggy handles my inputs. I do agree 100% this engine needs the love and this is what I intend to do. A bearing replacement I am very comfortable doing provided I have the correct tool, but I just want to be completely sure that I am taking the correct steps with this engine. To me the tool looks to be around $100 plus the bearing at $30 for the NR #17011 vs sending the engine to Monty to give a proper once over and get the engine back where it should be.

Sean

Here is a look at the front bearing:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...rummond057.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...rummond058.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...rummond059.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...rummond061.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...rummond084.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...rummond083.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...rummond090.jpg

OK Update I just ordered a new front bearing along with a new conrod and wrist pin clips. I have gone ahead and removed the current bearing and let me tell you it is not hard to see that it was not doing it's job. You can see in the photo's that it was allowing dust to pass the seal along with air which has been causing my running issues.

Thanks Monty and everyone else with helpful idea's.

Sean
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...inePics001.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...inePics002.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...inePics003.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...inePics004.jpg

the reason front bearings go bad is from running your engine grossly rich on the low speed needle especially during break in . when the engine gets loaded up with excess oil and there is low crankcase pressure its ok , when you build crankcase pressure through increased rpm's the excess oil follows the path of least resistance . even the best front engine bearing on the market cant withstand that ;)

break in of engines should be done as only slightly rich from race settings , aprox 2-3 hrs each needle :) or where the desired temps are reached :D


and that front bearing was definitely leaking ;)

JP B-5n
 

Houston do you know a good pipe for the JP b-5n engine. Motor rips bottom and mid just falls flat up top bad. Tryed alot of pipes nothing really wakes it up. Thanks Speedyrob

JP Racing 2032:nod:

Crono use to have one. Would be nice to get my hands on one.

cranks overtimed , thats why ;)

there were a few of those that had some cranks that were opened up too far in the duration (trailing edge) resulting in loss of top end :)

fix; new crank

i really loved those pipes :nod:

So, Monty, can you help us understand the symptoms of a bad front bearing so we detect them before they mess up the engine?

Thanks,

Paul

sorry paul , i meant to answer your Q earlier but.......... well sometimes an elephant forgets :D

in my findings over the years , the biggest sign of a bad front has literally came from excess oil leaking out the front bearing . when i pull the crank , which i tear my engines aprt for inspection fairly often , i am looking for some rust discoloring on the crankshaft that lets me know that the bearing has been seizing , bad bearing or just need cleaned out , reassembled and oiled if thats the case .

Amazing powerband......
 

I recieved my Houston Tuned p5 today.

Monty put that double sealed front bearing in it, and silicone filled the crank..

I couldn't stand it so I put the engine in my trusty back up 808 tonight, and broke it in, mostly...

I followed you advice Monty and did the two idle heat cycle tanks, and so on...
Let me tell you guys something if you don't already know, This p5 absolutely rips. It sounds ready to take on the big boys....

The bottom end was instant, yet came on smooth through the midrange, and sang a wonderful tune on the top end too.

It's tough to explain, while running through the turns, of the parking lot, hehe.. When I let off power while still moving at medium speed, when I get back on it, it's just there, so it makes it easier to drive fast...especially through technical sections.....

Bonus: It's the easiest to tune engine I've ever had, and I've had a few....Idles low, never died, sputtered or coughed, he...

Now I've never had a "tuned";) engine before, but in dealing with Monty to the finished product, I'm freakin excited...

Oh yeah, I think a tank lasted about 13 minutes, if I loose a couple minutes after final breakin that's at least 11 minutes of runtime......Unless I'm just crazy.

A big thanks to Monty, and all the guys who get the word out about his work...

no worries - there's so much info on this thread anyway that it's a great read no matter what. Actually I think at some point I'd make a word doc out of the best sections, split tuning/break-in/maintenance/... . all good stuff. Shame I don't need a mill at the moment as otherwise I'd happily buy one from you :lol:

Thanks,
Paul

PS: my crank does show the symptoms you are talking, ie discolored rust spots where it rests on the front bearing. Sounds like I need a new front bearing indeed. Of course I don't have the gear to do it myself. I'll try to find a local solution as last time I shipped a mill for a rebuild to the US it took me about 2mths to get it back since the US customs went completely anal about it :rolleyes:

I know what you mean I run a HES P5 and it's one sweet motor. I have a NIB FMS and am debating getting it some tlc from Monty :eek: but not sure it needs it though