Pyro, for sure the are very reliable! I was very happy with mine first gen and my buddy so far is very happy with his abi.:nod:

I prolly shouldn't have strayed away from the Orion line....

Hi Nyk. The Werks 2013 and Orion 2013 are very much the same in the performance. The new Orion pipe I prefer because the construction is more durable. We always run the 2013 pipe. We have tried many others, but for these engines we always come back home to 2013. :)

cool thanks pitpop!

On our tracks we generally agree that 9 minutes is repectable, assuming you have the power to clear the triple jumps. I am currently running the .21 in a 1/8 TT using the smallest ventury and generaly make a pit between 9.5 and 10 minutes, however I admit that my son gets almost another minute... Newer motor or better hands... Anyways there is a craze over here about some new motor creating 2.8 hp!! I would appreciate details on the wasp us spec power range, as the www nor the papers in the box give exact details. Thanx

not sure on the power rating, and I know it sounds cliche, but I would not hang my hat on any of the rating stuff, they are rarely accurate, and largely hype... the US Spec is a stump puller, everyone knows about the unreal bottom end power, but if you are going to look at horse power ratings, there are some engines that just make a ton of power. I'm not talking about something written in the specs, but engines that just look ridiculous on the track. The Orion Alpha .24 is one of those engines, as is the .21 5 port like what Cody ran at RC X-fest. OS 28, NR .28, all these engines have proven to be too much power to expect to finish a race in a responsible manner. Even the top pros cannot make these huge power engines work properly for race conditions...

SO what am I saying here? sometimes less is more.... :lol:

Let me also add that the Orion Alpha engines are high quality Italian engines with very durable and high quality materials inside. They NEED to be broken in completely to make maximum power. You will not be able to take it out of the shrink wrap and run 4 tanks through it and get maximum rpms like a cheaper made engine.

Hi PIT POP, I apreciate your information. Just one more question, since you brought up the point... What is your recomendation for the ideal break in to get full power?

Assuming that my WASP US spec isn´t too powerfull for the MBX6 TT...:lol: LOL

I doubt that very much :lol: you can use a lot of power in a truggy, but it's still possible to have too much...

I have to be clear here because I don't want to mislead anyone, that the extended break in method applies more to the Alpha line, not so much with the US Spec. We never felt the need to take extended break in with the US Spec. It is made in a completely different plant and a totally different animal than the Alpha line.

As far as specific methods for breaking in the Alpha, just start the engine and get the tune close on the box, but keep it on the rich side. Just start running figure eights in a parking lot and do that for about 4 or 5 tanks. Make sure the idle is laying down and consistent. If it's not, you might have to seal something up or put a spring on the carb. We always seal up the carbs really well. After that just run it on the track making sure it's slightly on the rich side until you get several bottles of fuel through it. In between runs make sure the piston is at BDC and let it cool all the way down. You can race tune it and have fun, but just don't cook it. From that point you need to be patient and not expect too much RPMs until the piston loosens up. It takes at least a gallon, maybe two. After that, it will be nearly impervious to damage. Turn in the screws and let it eat. You could be lean bogging on the track and as long as you richen it up in a lap or two it will be ok.

The first paradigm most people need to abandon is "pinch is important"... it's not! You don't want any pinch binding your Alpha. Run it until the fit is loose, then you will be rewarded. As long as your tune is consistent & the idle is solid, you are in good shape. Cody's race engines for Worlds or Nats have minimum 2 gallons through them.

Thanks for the question, I like sharing the info on here.

LOL

LOL LOL:lol:

Great information! What is your preferred method to seal the carb?

I think I mislead a bit by adding TT. I compete in the .21 class with the buggy. Trucks are around, but only for bashing. Maybe next year there will be enough to get some races going. In the meantime any serious offroaders looking to race have to stay with the buggy's.

Best regards and have a great new year!

absolutely perfect pk!!!!

Yeah PK, what DO you use to seal your carb? ;) (besides all my stuff...) LOL

I think I need to do a quick video on how to do this...

I use permatex to seal the retainer screw and banjo fitting, which has nothing to do with :cry:Steve:cry:. :smile: Then I use super goopy grease from Mugen that :cry:Steve:cry: gave me on the screws and rubber boot. :lol: I also put a zip tie on the boot where it joins the carb body, which has nothing to do with :cry:Steve:cry:. :D lmao

hi again pk any idea about the best plug to use with MTE orion ive been using odonnel 97t thanks:)

sure, I think that is the hot plug, right? It should be fine. We use the Orion or Sirio #5 and 6. #6 for when it's hot out, like over 85 degrees. The p3 also works, but not as durable. The Orion plug is a great plug and developed with this engine technology too. I can honestly say that no matter what engine we ran, knowing what I know today, the Orion plug is one of, if not THE best glow plug on the market. More power and more durable. :D

... oh yea... Happy New Year all you real Alpha peeps! :D