I've been running it for a while. Whats up?

wondering how it compares to other engines in terms of power and power delivery

I have had no issues with Orion engines, they have been awesome of fuel, easy to drive and enough power for anything. david ronnefalk runs them so they cant be bad...

Will try Team Orion CRF 21 7 port V3 WS editon engine this season. Which plugs should I use? OS P3, P4?
I have a hard time to find Orion plugs.

We have been using P3 plugs in our engines with no issues.

I run OS P4 plugs in my Orion engines with no issues.

Yo Stay with the 7mm venturi. Its hard to tune over the web, but I will tell you my Orions are all set with the high speed and low speed set at about .5 mil in. Make sure the carb is not sticking, and make sure at neutral the carb is closing all the way. Set idle to about .75 mil. Make sure you don't have a hole in the carb boot and make sure the header is sealed on the gasket. Make sure there is good fuel line pressure. Because you cant get an idle makes me think there is an issue with fuel pressure.

Mid season update
 

Runing Team Orion CRF 21 7 port v3 WS edition engine for half a season now in a HB D817 V2 with both byron fuel and runnertime fuel. This will be a short review about my experiance with this engine.
First of all I decided to run this engine because one of my fellow racers recommended it, I have run FX, Reds and Picco before and had them all running strong. Even if I were a happy camper with both Reds and Picco I wanted to try something new.
I bought two engines and paired them with orion 2149 pipes. I had them broken in with EBIS and run them half a tank on the box and two tanks on the track while I put a conservative race tune on them. I could run them more than 10 minutes right from the start even on a high speed track with lots of grip and full throttle. I had fellow racers test my setup and they achived the same milage. The engine has performed like this the whole time and I have run 17.5 litres and it still has good compression. I haven't even used my second engine yet except when I put a race tune on it.
The performance of the engine is good with a linear power delivery from bottom to top end. It has the rpm needed for the rely long straights and still good torq down low all the way up to clear any obstacle.
I haven't been underpowerd with this engine and I think this is a really easy engine to drive compared to the 5 port engines I ran before.

You have an air leak, this is not so unusual. The cure for these Orions is high temperature resistant silicone around the carb neck to crankcase, and where the carburettor boot attaches onto the carb body, as well as where the carburettor boot seals around the pull ball link area. This will make tuning a lot easier, as it will eliminate the most common air leaks on these engines.

Sometimes I have also fitted the Novarossi 14002 into the crankcase hole where the carburettor goes in, as the supplied stock O-rings tend to be too thin in that spot.

It's also possible to get an irratic idle if you have a bad rod. I had one like that which was new and was horrendous to tune which just confused us, it then proceeded to blow the rod in the third heat of the first race, which was the EFRA Euros in Sweden 2017. (Nothing wrong with tune, Mr. Bertin tuned it so it should have been dead on right)
In my opinion it is possible that you can be unlucky and once in a while get a bad rod out of the box, in which case, check your rod for spec.

Once you've eliminated all air leaks and checked the rod, there should be no reason why it would idle irraticly or flame out randomly.

Interesting... Im on my 8th and 9th Orion engine and never had any issues with air leaks or bad rods.... Me personally would NEVER use silicone on my high end engines.... I would not buy them if it needed them... ijs

Adrien Bertin silicones the engines. He siliconed the one he rebuilt me at the EFRA Euros 2017. This engine has since had the best idle of any Orion I ever had, hence I recommend this practice to anyone.
I don't just pass out advice for no reason.
The 14002 O-ring concern was something Monty Houston came up with, after I discussed the issue with him, this was early 2016.
Mr. Bertin then measured the stock O-rings we were using, as we sat there talking, and he went "OMG you're right it's too thin".
I'm pretty sure they've adressed this issue in newer production, but any older stock will have the skinnier older O-rings, which you can buy 5pcs of Novarossi 14002 for very little money.

Again, I would not buy a high-end engine that was not ready to race.... And never had an issue. But hey, what ever works right..

Can anyone confirm the outside thread pitch on the crank? Is it 1/4-28 like some other popular engines?