ok heres my question do, any of you guys run the hobby 9 (s5 ) engine in a truggy ? well ive already tried to change my clutch bell to a lower tooth and im using meduim alum clutch, shoes with a green/gold spring setup do

you guys think that using, a all gold spring alum shoe setup whould work better ? and whould the gold setup wear the meduim shoes out too quick ?


i just want it to where, the engine will (spool up faster) so i can hit a big jump better.

im running a eight-t 1.0 by the way.

anybody know ?

Chris i have picked up a couple of engine protectors and ran them on all my rb motors the C6,shark and ws72. They all fit perfect with the Losi clucth. I know we wanted to know when they frist came out. They GREAT works so good helps keep all that dirt, mud and alot of it off the bearing helping the motor last longer because its not geting any dirt in it. Just my 2 cents bud if you run Rb and Novarossi engines and have $17 to spare for your engine Get one. Thanks speedyrob

I have never tried to run this engine in a truggy as I feel it would be under powered in a truggy. I do run a Losi truggy so the main thing I can suggest is you run 13/50 gearing. Also a lot depends on the pipe and header you are using. With an S5 in truck your going to need a long header and possibly the 2020 pipe to get that extra grunt you are looking for. Also I know in my 8ight 2.0 truggy I run all aluminum shoes with all gold springs when I need the extra snap, you can try to silver and two golds too, or even all 4 silver.. the shoes will wear faster with all silver but it will really spool up before engaging.

Awesome!!! thanks man, I have not tried one on my Losi because the whole clutch fits on soo exact I figured it would throw off the shimming. Looks like I will be giving one a try soon.

Well I ran the Rally10 for a few tanks in my practice car this weekend and WOW!!! The Rally is not going to make a very good buggy engine as the power delivery is INSTANT and insane... tires turned into pizza cutter out of every corner and and just sounded angry!!! I did run the 2018 pipe on the engine so maybe a 2045 will tame it down a bit but I am thinking this might be a better truggy alternative.

ok thanks im using a 13/50 gearing, it does have extra punch but not quite im using a dynamite 86 pipe, so i could ethier try the all gold spring setup or a longer header.

the engine is on its second gallon.

what would make the, biggest diffrence a longer header or stiffer clutch springs ?

ws7 l2g?
 

I have a WS7 l2g and was wondering if there is a cheap way to put a better cooling head on it? I want a taller head for better cooling!

Thanks in advance
Gregg

Honestly, a different pipe will help more than the header or the springs. The 086 pipe is a top end pipe so nothing you do is going to help a lot. 90% of these engines performance comes from the exhaust system, you can have the baddest engine made and with the wrong pipe it will be nothing but a headache.

If you can't get a better pipe start with a longer header if you already have one, if not try the springs first since they are the cheapest option.

Hey Gregg,

I have noticed my engines run hotter with those older L2G heads. The new L2G heads on the B10 and Cross10 are much taller and cool much better. As far as a cheap head I would suggest lookin on ebay for someone that might be parting out a newer B10 or X10 or maybe someone will have an older style RB head that was before the L2G. I have never tried any aftermarket heads so I don't know what if any of those to suggest to ya.

yea il try the all gold spring setup, first if that doesnt work il take a look at the dynamite 53 pipe.

i race on a big 1/8 track with, techinal turns as you can see in my avatar pic on the left.

The dynamite 53 pipe will help your situation. Maybe the spring change will help enough to save you some money on a new pipe. When I ran an S5 a few years back the best I ever got it to run was with the RB2020 pipe but they are hard to find and kind of pricey.

just put a b10 in my mbx6 buggy
Any clutch suggestions?
Currently have dynamite long wear alum. shoes

I don't own a Mugen but I know several guys around here run the lightweight shoes with either .9 or 1.0 springs. It will all depend on your driving style and track conditions.

Just like Chris said I run a Mugen and have just switched over to a B10 and ran .9 springs with the hard Mugen shoes and it felt great!!!!

www.Amainhobbies.com has a rb 2020 pipe in stock. Speedyrob

I have a 3001 pipe you can try as well.:tire:

$130 no thank you lol why is it that much ?

Well it is the header and the pipe. $130 may seem like a lot but look at the same package from OS $170. When it comes down to it these pipes will just work better on your engine than ANY dynamite or JP pipe will. If you really want the max performance and fuel economy you have to spend the money, thats all there is to it.

I have a WS7III that I have rebuild and started running again in my RC8B. Any suggestions on clutch springs and header/pipe combos? If my memory is correct, the WS7 preforms better with heaver springs? I will be running an Ascendancy 4 shoe clutch. I have a RB 2045 pipe as well as the 198 and 192 header-pipe. I was told a JP-1 pipe was a good.

You can run the JP-1 but you are gona get horrible fuel mileage. I would personally run the 2045 pipe with a 198 header. In the Losi the stock gearing is 13/48 and I always changed it to 13/50 when running the WS7. I tried 12/48 but that was too drastic and killed my top end too much so you may want to consider 2 teeth bigger on your spur. As for the clutch, yes you are right the WS7 likes a heavier clutch as it does not have the big torque to get the car rolling initally, heavy clutch springs do help this but I always preferred running the standard clutch with the gearing change to help the engine get in it's ideal power band sooner.

Have a RB S7, with the L2G cooling head, need to replace the inner and outer bearings, what are the size bearings that I need? And is there somewhere in the states that can rebuild RB motors? Thanks for your help!

Possible engine issues
 

Hi there. I have a question.

I have a RB W27 (Original) ;)

Sleeve was pinched. :blush:

got about (mmm) 6 tanks through it and here is the problem.

I did another break in and at this point, I seem to get around 4

minutes to the tank. Current temp is about 240 - 250.

Power seems pretty good. will spin a set of bald offroad tires on

dry pavement. Car tend to act like it wants to pull a wheelie (Front end

doesn't come off the ground)

The engine doesn't seem to product a ton of bottom/midrange/top.

Engine is in a Mugen MBX-5. :sneaky:

I get smoke throught the entire rev line. :sweat:

Any thoughts as to why the fuel efficiency is low? :cry:

I'll check if there is some extra drive train load. (just thought of this) :weird:

NOTE: WHEN THE ENGINE IS ABOUT TO RUN OUT OF FUEL AND GOES LEAN

ALL BETS OR OFF AS TO THE AMOUNT OF POWER IT CREATES. IT WAKES UP

AND REALLY COMES (I MEAN REALLY REALLY) COMES ALIVE. LOW END/

MIDRANGE JUST SCREAM. :weird: :tire::tire: I mean like I think could give my

brushless 2650 a run for its money :tire::tire: :weird:

Could it be this engine wants to run at about 260 - 270? I have had a few

engines that run strong at 270..

Thanks :D:D:D

Thanks

Rb ws7
 

The rb ws7 does like to run hotter than most 260-280 is a good temp makes tons of power bottom,mid,top. One problem with the ws7 is runtime a good race tune and i still cant get no more than 7-8 min Tops. Great motors in there prime. Speedyrob

what about the hobby 9 (s5) engine im wondering how hot do they like to run for a race tune ? i mean the last time, i checked it after i got off the track it was about 235 im only on my second gallon.


its a good club racing engine, im running it on my truggy i messing around with my clutch springs to get more punch.

Engine Temp
 

I thought this guy liked heat.

Interesting enough, when it gets lean (out of fuel) it really comes alive.

I'll try this.

Hmm. No carb restrictor or was there. I'll have to check the box.

Thanks

2nd gallon 235 is good dont dont rush leaning the motor out take ur time it needs to drop its nuts AKA breakin. Always tune too smoke and sound if its smoking and not making good revs lean it out. It is making good really good revs there should be a trail of smoke the whole way thru the power band. If its smoking its geting plenty of oil so RUN IT. Hope this helps. Speedyrob

ok thanks i will try my best, to be not in a rush to lean it out more lol.
the last time i ran it there, was a thin smoke coming out of the pipe when i hit the gas . it does have some speed for being on its second gallon

If you feel the engine had good power than run it. If you feel you need alittle more dont be scared to lean the top a hour or two. Your real close to being fully broke-in around the 2nd or 3rd gallon it well go real Rich then you know its time to really start leaning it. I hope you have a great time running your RB. They well provide gallons of fun. Thanks speedy

well im going to see how, it runs with the new glow plug it did start to idle good and a bit more punch, but my battery wire came apart during the warm up lap.

so if i feel i need more, lean the top end out after the second gallon thats a big turn ! i usally turn the the main needle about 1/4 to a half of a turn.

it ran 235 when my low end , was running rich but its proberty a little hotter now but thats when it was about 90@ out and humit.

One hour means like you are looking at a clock and its at 12pm go to 1pm that is called a hour.

Leaning your low-end out well bring the temp up alittle but the high-speed neddle is what really changes tune and Temp. Speedyrob

oh i know that i guess, it coulnt hurt should i do that after the second gallon ?

ok i might have to retune, since i kept on leaning out the low end neddle to stop it from loading up, but it changed after i put a new plug in there was still a light smoke out of, the pipe but while i did lean the low end out i did richen the main neddle about 1/4 of a turn ccw.

now i did get cooler out when i retuned it.

You can start doing that now just take your time the motor well go flat rich during practice, Qaul, Main sometime its around the 2nd or 3rd gallon you just never know when. Its not going to hurt to lean it out 1/4 or one hour at a time. Just get the power your need to clear all jumps and are happy with. Dont be scared to get it to 245-250 temp wise. If its got good smoke Bottom, mid and top and your happy run it. Im sure your going to get alot of gallon thru that motor before needing another.

You did GREAT bud riching up the the top when you got the bottom right. You were leaning out the top-end to get good power because the bottom was to rich. You want have to do much retuning bud. Your almost Dead on you tune.

ok i got you yea i was, leaning the low end out about 1/4 or a bit more .
i did run diffrent when, i used the new gallon so i did retune it.

the old plug was, giving me problems it was something wrong with it.

with the new plug it did, give a constant idle but it might of been a little high .

since i been messing with the low end.

thanks now i did change, me clutch bell to a lower tooth and when it finally ran right with the new plug if i remember i had a enough power from the turn to the end of the straight, away the last time i race was about 2 weeks ago.

Once you tune the low-end to idle good turn down the idle gap Screw to lower it to a nice low idle. You should be about dead on with you tune now the top-end may steel be rich or be perfect it depends on the weather next time you run. Speedy

Then you should be good bud. If you like the power and its smoking all the way down the staight ( a light smoke not heavy) Give it He**:lol:. Speedy