I have removed 1 head shim but have only run it once since. I do have a JP3 pipe but it seemed to be a gas hog for me so I haven't messed with it in a while. I haven't touched the idle at this point.

Forgot to add, the motor is in an XT8 09 spec with standard gearing13/47
clutch is answer aluminum shoes with medium springs.

RB has so many engines out now. Can someone do a run down? Just looking to get back to RB just to see what they got goin' on. Thanks.

I would also say lean the bottom out more, with the 7mm carb restrictor you have to cut the fuel to match the less amount of air coming in. I ran a 7mm restrictor in my K9, my low end needle was turned in quite far to get the tune right. You will know when your low end is too lean. Fatten up your highend a little to be safe and tune in your low end first. Also Don't try tunning these engines until you get heat in them also. Preheat it to about 200* with a hair dryer or heat gun. Try the JP-3 again, my experience with it on my JL .21 (same engines) is that it really wakes these engines up thru the entire powerband!

Cool, I'll keep tweaking on the lsn. I was wrong, I have a JP2, not 3.

Thanks for the help

Thanks Chris.

Hey pickle, make sure your idle isnt too high. I see alot of people have the idle turned up too high and it causes the same effect. Try lowering your idle some and jus see if u notice a difference.

Hey man there are quite a few engines available right now. RB has engines that range from entry level performance with a low price tag, to more expensive powerful race engines.

C6USA - If you can find one of these they are the most powerful RB you will find right now, tons of bottom end power and just as much top if not more than the standard C6. It is basically a C6 with a modified/balanced/coated crank, and a modified head button. I only run this in truggy as I find it to be too much power for my buggy on most tracks.

B9 - The B9 is just the 2009 model of the C6. They have the low center of gravity cooling heads and turbo head buttons. This is a great truggy motor if you can't find a C6USA anywhere. It is also a good buggy engine if you have been driving for a while and can use the power it makes without causing yourself more wrecks.

WS9 - This is the new version of the original S7 which was very very popular for a long time. It has always been a square stroke 7 port engine, so it flies on the straight away. These engines are still 7 port but they now use the MES exhaust porting which basically looks like there is 3 exhaust ports. It was originally designed for European tracks with wide sweeping corners and long straights. A lot of people that run these on US style tracks don't like the bottom end in a truggy so it is probably best in buggy. This is what I run in a Losi buggy and I run with a 50 tooth spur rather than a 48, this gives me the bottom end I need for any tracks I have been to as well as plenty of top end for the straights.

Buggy10 - This is brand new and revealed at the toy fair this week, I have not seen the full specs on the engine but it appears to have a few changes from the B9. I can see the new strengthened and coated crankcase, and a new cooling head. It is still a 5 port engine with a 14mm bi turbo crank. There may be some other internal changes made that should be announced shortly.

Cross10 - This is also a new engine they released at the toy fair. From the specs I can see it should be very similar to the Shark9 that was a limited edition engine. This also comes with the new designed crankcase but does not have the coating. It has the new design L2G cooling head as well. It is a 3 port engine with the 3 port MES exhaust porting. It is also a long stroke 14mm bi turbo engine.


K9/K10 - This is RB's engine that provides pretty good power at a low cost. These engines are not Novarossi based engines so will not behave and tune like RB's you have used in the past. These engines are manufactured in Taiwan. Not being Nova based you will probably not be able to get 10+ gallons of fuel out of it like the more expensive RB's in the lineup.

S9 - This engine is the original S7 from back in the day. It is a square stoke 7 port engine with a turbo crankshaft.

Hobby9 - This engine is basically the old S5 that was in the lineup. It is a 5 port square stroke engine with a turbo cut in the crankshaft. It has a standard plug and a low center of gravity cooling head. This is the engine I ran in my buggy when I first started racing, was plenty of power when I was new and was very reliable.

Junior9 - This is the Old S3 engine. It's a 3 port square stroke engine and probably the least powerfull engine in the lineup, would be a great engine for a young kid getting into the hobby.

Generally when you start leaning the LSN you are going to have to lower the idle as leaning the LSN will cause the idle to get higher. It's the opposite if you start to richen the LSN you will need to turn the idle up some. Sounds like when you are leaning the LSN the idle is carrying on and staying high which is making you think it's lean. back the idle back and you will probably be fine as you lean the LSN.

Thanks Chris Peralta, I loved my Ws7's. I may pay the extra dime and give RB another shot.

Does anyone know when the Buggy 10 is coming out. I would rather go with the B10 then the B9... need to be different

I've had my k9 for over 3 gallons now and like it alot.Mine still has pinch and occasionally gets stuck.I don't see this engine wearing out prematurly.I use the re10 pipe on it and get 10+ minutes on a tank.The jp3 also runs good.

just curious, is this in a truggy or buggy?
thanks

Can't say for sure but generally when they release a new engine at the fair it will be available shortly. Should be in plenty of time for the race season.

Has anybody ever had any experience using a pressure chamber between the exhaust pipe and fuel tank? After hearing about one and doing some research the idea seems to make since. It seems to be helpful if you are having problems flaming out after refueling stops do to over filling the fuel tank. I think we have all experienced flame outs after refueling at some point in our careers. I did experience a string of flame outs with my WS7III this past fall. Would fuel filter do the same thing?

I'm running it in a buggy now,but can honestly say that the k9 would pull a truggy just fine.The power band is a little smoother on the bottom than a v-spec but has just as much or more on the top.

ok. i was just wondering beacuse im looking for a good engine that will get close to 10 min in a buggy. so far Werks and RB is on my mind.

Honestly I think you would be better trying some extra fuel tubing on the pressure line and loop it around (try for a good 8 inches or so). With a chamber in there you have something that can come loose or develop a leak. Also the biggest reason these engines flame out after being fueled is your LSN is a bit too rich. You can also try running a #5 plug instead of a #6.

Thanks for the quick reply! I am fairly new to the hobby. 2 years racing buggies. I am hoping this will be my break out year! I am trying to cover all of the problem areas from the previous 2 years. Flame outs have been a problem in the past. As a matter of fact I switched to an OS V-SPEC for a while because of it. I still much prefer the power delivery of the WS7 III; Much easier to control! I have made the decision this year to go with the WS7 III; Thinking about buying a WS9. I have heard that RB’s are sensitive to glow plug heat ranges and prefer lean LSN settings. I typically do not tune using temp but more sound, feel, and smoke. I was thinking about trying an OD 77T or an OS P3. I have been seeing some negative post about the quality of RB and Nova based glow plugs. Seems to be a hot topic on other forms.

Are air bubbles of any kind acceptable in the fuel line? I get occasional intermediate pin head size bubbles I can see in my fuel line.

Don't try a P3 plug in the engine, they are tapered a little different that the RB/Nova plugs. I know they are very closeto the same plugs but I have never really had problems with the RB plugs but I have had problems when trying to run the Novarossi plugs. I have found I like the way the #5 turbo plug works best in my engines. As for the LSN, I wouldn't say they like to be lean you just want to make sure the LSN is tuned so that your engine isn't loading up with fuel while it sits and idles. Once tuned good you should be able to let the car sit still for a good 5 seconds then pull the throttle and the car should accelerate well without having to clean out a bunch of extra fuel first.

Also, generally you don't want to see any air bubbles in your fuel lines as these will cause you a lot of tuning issues.

Do you think the air bubbles would be coming from the fuel tank? I have replaced all of the o-rings and sealed the engine and replace all of the fuel lines. I run a RC8 and there are known issues with the fuel tanks.

I run with a few guys that run RC8's and they have all started using HB's fuel tanks in their RC8's because of the inconsistent tank issues.

That is what I thought. Seems to be the direction every body is going too. This is actually my 4th fuel tank. It is all over the RC8 forums. I actually have a HB tank in my toolbox. I guess I need to install it. Thanks for all of the tips and info. Not too many guys running RB's at my home track.

Have anyone tried the shark 9? What do you think of it?

I have ran the Shark9 a little bit, have not actually raced with it yet because of the snow. The little I did drive the Shark it seems like it has great power for my buggy, and is supposed to get better fuel mileage than the C6.

I might start the break in tomorrow. Its been cold and its suppose to be another foot of snow so not sure just yet. :cry::cry:

I would try to wait till the temp is up in the 50's to start the breakin. If you run these engines too cold and don't get them up around 200 degrees you are doing more damage than breakin.

Thanks for the help. I think the K9 is dialed now. This weekend I was getting 10 minutes per tank and it ran strong. After I finished the main, I pulled the truck to the side of the track, talked to another racer for a few, and the motor was still idling fine. Before, it would have stalled before I ever got over to it. I was very happy with the way it ran.

Killer 9 A-main run
 

I ran my Killer 9 this last weekend. It only has about 16 tanks on it. I made 2nd in the b-main and ran 20 mins to bump into the 30 min A-main. The engine ran flawless and I was getting about 9mins a tank so far with a THS pipe. I finished 6th out of 10 in the a-main. This engine is the best engine for the price by far. I am going to get a Rally 9 next. I hope it is half the engine the K9 is. reo raceway puts on some really good races. Thanks Jay

The Rally9 has a powerband more like an on-road engine, probably not the best choice for a buggy or truggy.

Rally9
 

Amain hobbies calls it an offroad engine. I think it is more like a C5 with different timing. amain calls it a buggy engine

It is a lot like a C5 but it has the older on-road crank in it. Those Rally cars aren't always on high traction plus they run more of a street tire so it probably needs to be softer on the bottom end to prevent spinning the tires every time you touch the throttle. Maybe someone out there has tried one of these in a buggy or truggy and will chime in.

RB Concepts longivity
 

I will have to try this engine for the 229 price. i mean you can't beat these new engine for the 230 price range. I know I will never buy a used engine again considering I can get good engine for cheap. I know I will never buy a OS over a rb. This is my 4th rb engine and just a good as the first one

They are very reliable engines, my very first RB was a WS7II I bought in 2006 and the thing still runs all day long at 220.

You can run a p3 plug but after you do you can only run OS plugs. I run P3's in all my .21 offroad RB's. I have a turbo top with more then 10 gallons on it that I've only ran P3's in, and it works fine still. P3's work really well in Houston, TX.

What is the needle settings for a C6BBT? mine is still just getting broke in, I have less than 1 gallon thru it, it's really hard to keep the temps below 265, and thats tuff at times, I'm runnig the 2045 pipe with 192 header on Byrons 30% gen II.

Well one thing I would suggest to start is get the 198 header if your running the C6 in a truggy. As for the needles, when I was there a month ago both my LSN and HSN were very close to flush. I never use a temp gun so I can't really say what my temps were down there but I generally just make sure I can touch my hand to the head for a second.

Also your temps are going to be a little hotter untill it is fully broken in. Once the motor completely frees up your temps should drop a good 20 degrees. Next time you temp your motor and the temp gun says 265ish try the spit test right away as well, if it really is 265 the spit should burn off very very fast. As long as you have good smoke and you don't have any lean bogs from the engine I would say you are fine.

Yea, I missed you when you were down here, I have had surgery on my kne just after Xmas, so wasn't able to get around to easy, you coming down for the Nitro Challenge next week? I have used the 198 header, at the pit, it'll top out before your to the end of a straight, the 192 tends to smooth out the bottom end, so it's not so insane, this is the first time I've tried the C6, I have ran mostly the WS7 line for about 10 years, totally different engine. I', also trying to get a Killer 9 broken in, what a pain in the arss, it's temps are low, and hard to get over 200, I'm using an exergen temp gun by the way, so I'm confident in my temps.

Yeah it does top out on the long straight there but I like to have the low end power for the other sections of the track. Just glance at your needles and makes sure both are fairly close to flush. I have also used Exergen temp guns quite a bit and they are what made me give up on using temp guns. I know they are very expensive and very accurate but that is under perfect conditions, we put those things thru hell and they end up with dust and oil and grime on the lens and then it gets wiped off and it's a smear and then more dirt and oil. I have tried 3 different exergen temp guns within seconds of each other and all 3 were diff temps that varied by over 30 degrees.

I won't be able to make the Nitro Challenge this year as I have a ton of vacation I am already using to go racing this year. I was there last year and had a TON of fun and will probably be back next year. My daughter lives in Arizona now so I will probably be out there shortly after the NC for another points race on the NC layout so I can get my ACS t-shirt.

Are you going to the Silverstate race in March11-14? Joey is building and running that race, as well as his renown Nitro Challenge, As a matter of fact, Kenny B. is the race director for the Silverstate this year.

I would like to make that race but we shall see. With the Nats being here in Colo this year I will be taking that week off for the race as well as some of the week before to help the track owner build the track and get the facility ready. We are also now a part of a RCPro series so I will be going to the race in Albuquerque, and Amarillo. Not to mention I have several real vacations scheduled this summer so I am gona have to calculate up my vacation time and see what I can do. Maybe something will work out cause I now know it's totally worth the time to run on one of Joeys layouts!!!