A bigger exhaust port means more top end power. Unfortunately when it gets really big, piston stability is reduced and you can get scoring on the piston where it catches on the edge of the top of the exhaust port. The MES design is just a really big exhaust port with a couple bridges in the corners to reduce the chance of piston damage.

On another note, I used to run a high carbon fuel that could actually plug those ports up with carbon build-up after about a gallon. When that happened, power dropped noticeably. Regular tear downs for cleaning kept it running great.

As for 14.5mm cranks, that was mainly done for onroad motors. We were all hogging out the bore so much that crank failures were occasionally happening. Nova went to 14.5mm to beef them up a bit. There really is no performance advantage what so ever to it and in fact, everyone else has stuck with 14mm cranks. The only reason they are finding their way into offroad motors is because everything else Nova makes now uses the 14.5 crank (even Maxpower and the Kangaroo have gone with it now) so it's more cost effective to use off the shelf parts than dust off old cnc programs, case molds and order old bearings.

Question for those that know the original RB S7 or S5, I have one in the pit-box with a broken con-rod. The con-rod looks like this but just to know, in all these years did the part number changed or a improved con-rod is out there? Thanks.

So my V19 lost mech pinch in about 4 tanks...

Idled one, then 2 slow figure 8 tanks(cool at BDC) then slow lap on track, and it was gone... Kinda sketchy. Seems fine though, otherwise. Still pretty rich. About two turns from race tune on low and one on high. Prolly about 10 tanks in so far. Had a rear pinion bearing come apart so I had to stop.

I usually do two idle tanks, 3 figure 8s then start on the track and the pinch is still pretty apparent for the first half gallon at least.

Prolly get a race tune on it later this week. Will report back.

rb still uses the 1122c connecting rod on everything

Are you sure? Last I had my one F11 open, the rod had a "10" on it I think..(not %100..) Was wondering what rod I would need for it..

Check the size of your crank pin. If it's 5mm, any Nova R rod will work. Older RBs used a smaller pin, like 4.9 I think. Those will need an old RB rod. Roleof knows the exact dimensions, I could be wrong.

my bxr uses a 1122c rod. I have a bunch of rb engines and the exploded diadram of the motor all have 1122c rods. the number stamp on the rod might be diff. but the same 1122c.

Looking through the old manuals, it looks like they are right, everything uses an 1122 rod of some form or another.

Hello! I am running RB Blast V.9 engine. It is cold -15°C (5°F). Is it ok using O.S. P4 Turbo Glow Plug "Super Hot" ?

Thanks all, the crank pin is 4,97mm so I have more options but I have easier access to RB parts

What would this new Rally engine be like in a buggy or truggy? The price is nice...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ine-Turbo-Plug

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ipe-Turbo-Plug

would like to know this too......anyone?

I have a Blast V15 and the rod has some slop in it already. RB replacement rods are too expensive and would like to know which of the Nova rods will fit this? I know I read somewhere to measure the crank pin but I don't have measuring tool and Im hoping someone here knows off hand....any other rod other than a Nova that will fit? Alpha, GO etc? I know the quality is lower on the other brands but I cant see spending the coin for an OEM rod for such a budget engine at this point.

I'm going to give my uneducated opinion here, which may well be wrong.. but from my memory, Go and Alpha rods are the same dimensions in terms of hole size and distance between the holes, so should work for RB and Nova engines. However the outer dimension might be larger or smaller so might rub on the case. Now Alpha have two different rods, the regular one and the Lutz one, which are in terms of hole size and distance same, but different externally.

Anyhow, if I were you I'd just get the cheap Go rod, as a gamble, and try it to see if the outer lower edge of it rubs on the case or not, if it doesn't rub, meaning the groove in the case is large enough for it to clear, you're good to "Go".