Hello Allen,
Yesterday I ran -1 shim, the engine ran good with no adverse effects.

Big Bell
 

Aaron,

Thanks for the info. Did you see an increase in temps. with the extra shim out?

Allen Bell

No increase in temp after my race, my engine was coming off at 170 to 180 on a exergen temp gun. I raced on a smaller indoor track, I say the temp inside was about 65*f.

Just remember with the engine's tight pinch warm the engine up before you start it and get the temp up before you tune. 3+ gallons and my engine is tight as hell. Im going to put a rod in it as soon as I can get one, this engine is fantastic. I can't wait to get my modded JL .21 (same as K9) from Maximo @ Clockwork Racing Engines!!!!

Any idea what size the bearings are in the killer 9? I've got a couple gallons through mine now and it's time for ceramics.
Thanks

rear= 14x25.4x6
front= 7x19x6

The bearings are the same size as a RB C4 or C5. Not a C6, C6 has a slightly larger rear bearing 14x25.8x6

Here is a link to Boca's MX series bearings. I recommend these bearings, they do exactly what they are claimed to do. The front bearing in this kit seals quite well. They are on sale right now and you can take advantage of Boca's free regular shipping.
http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.as...n=*ENK-148C-MX

hey can a crank from a c6 fit a ws7II

No. The C6 crank is larger in size. You can use a S3,S5,S7 but you will lose a little performance. The WS7 has a bi-turbo crank, the "S" series have a single turbo scoop.

RB
 

does anyone know how many gallons they r getting out of the k9?

Well that sucks, I already have a ceramic for the C6. Guess I'll be ordering one.

Thanks

Killer 9 pipe suggest
 

Hi Which JP pipe set is the best for the K9 engine?
Thanks

Great idea Chris
 

Putting fuel tubing over the springs is something I've not thought of, ever. Nice...

I ran a JP2 on mine and it ripped but sucked the fuel down. I changed to the dynamite 053 and it really smoothed out the power band and run times increased by 2 minutes.

hey im looking for a new pipe and header combo for the ws7. the one that came with the motor isnt in great shape and i have a square shaped header instead of a round one.

When I ran my ws7 I ran a thunder tiger 2035. It really helped with getting more torq. Run time was real good with the 2035 and top end was still ballistic,never stop pulling. I miss my ws7, that's one engine I should have kept

yea i love the way the engine runs. i bought mine for 70 bucks. and very tight compression. it needs a new crank cause the guy cut it off and put a nut thing on the end instead cause he said the crank was eating up clutch bearings. but it works perfectly and i am very pleased for 70 bucks. just got done running it at the track tonight, only thing is its very nit picky when tuning it. i also have a c6 that came with my buggy but that motor has no compression so i was gonna buy a rebuild kit for it

It really works!!! I had given up trying to use those short springs and was using the long ones till I tried the fuel tubing. It can really be a challenge getting the fuel tubing over the springs tho. I suggest trying to do it with a few beers so your not frustrated and throwing things in a few minutes :weird:

I use JP-3 on the Force JL .21 and it works great, they says these are pretty much the same engine. Believe or not its good on fuel:weird: JP-3 is not know for being a gas miser, but seems these too like each other.

Head shims for a rb C6
 

Does anyone know the correct amout of shims for a C6. I have .30 right now and i run 30% nitro. Thanks Speedy

The engine comes standard with .30 of shims, this should be with two shims. RB recommends that you add a .10 shim for a total of .40 to run 30%. How much fuel do you have thru the engine with those shims? If it is pre detonating you can pull off the head button and look at the piston to check for pit marks. Your altitude will also play into the equation some. Are you racing at sea level?

Ok mine has four shims:weird: It should have only two?

Well it also depends on what size those shims are that are installed. RB has shims that are .10 and .20. Since they recommend to have .40 to run 30% at sea level it is possible your engine has 4 .10 shims. Stock from the factory there should be one thicker brass shim and one thin brass shim. If you are at sea level and running 30% you may want one thick and two thin shims, or the 4 thin shims. You can also try one thick and one thin with the 30% to see how it runs for you as a lot of people run with .30 of shims with 30%.

If all of your shims are the same size you may want to use some calipers and measure to see whats in there.

chris did you run the shark motor yet. if so how did the motor feel.:tire:

OK thanks!!;) Im running 25% so I will take one shim out.

Hey man, sorry I have not raced the Shark yet. Here in Colorado we have been burried in snow for over a month now and LUCKY to get over 35 degrees. I am gona go race in Az this weekend but will probably only practice with the Shark as it's only got 6 tanks on it for now. I will let you know how it ran for that but it's gona be a full gallon of fuel before I can see what the Shark really has.

Yeah take one out for sure..... If you have one thick and three thin shims you should pull out two of the thin ones for 25%.

Jud they are talking about the C6 not the K9. A stock C6 would only come with two shims. If you are unsure how to take a shim out I will do it for you. LOL

Thanks Chris
 

The motor has 3 gallons on it. I had another .20 shim so i put it on like u said. The top of the piston IS Black is this good or bad no marks on the top that i can see. I heard steel wool was good to use to clean the top of the piston an button up is this true?

Thanks, also do you run the motor in a buggy or truggy.

The top of the piston being black is actually a good thing, just means there has been plenty of lubrication in there as that's from the oil burning. If it was pre-detonating you would see pit marks on the top of the piston and would be able to feel them as well. After 3 gallons you would see a lot of them if it was a problem, so I would just run it like it was with the stock shims if it was performing well for you without killing glow plugs or flaming out.

For cleaning the black from the top I usually use Brasso. You should fully pull the piston out of the engine to do this. Then just put a small dab on the top of the piston and rub it in with your finger. Let it sit for a few minutes then rub it off with a cotton cloth. If there is a lot it may take doing this 2 or 3 times to get clean. Also try not to do the sides of the piston at all just the top. After you clean it be sure to spray it down really well with motor spray to make sure there is no Brasso left anywhere in there. Then oil it up and put it back together.

I will be running it in my buggy, I run the C6USA in truggy because that thing is a monster with a 2020 pipe.

Thanks
 

Thanks man no not blowing plugs just wanted to no if it was right. Does the extra .10 make any big diffence in the power or anything i think i may try .40 sat at a local race. Thanks again man great fast post back to me.

You may notice a little less power and possibly an erratic idle by going up to .40. If it acts funny just go back to the stock shims and you should be set.

It wouldnt hurt to lose some Power:lol: but i do love a crisp idle i test and see how it does Thanks man u been great. Happy new years to you and everyone reading have a safe and fun night

If you race on a short track that 2020 pipe is okay, if it's to much bottom, try the 2045, it will take away the insane bottom, and will be more linear all the way thru.

I have ran a 2045 on it a few times but I generally like the extra bottom end for truggy, a lot of that probably has to do with my altitude and loosing so much power up here I need all I can get.

Oops!!!:lol: Sorry I got lost in the thread!!:tire::tire::o I know how to take the shim out. They all look the same size(Killer9). I just took one out so I will see how it runs. Thanks Aaron.:tire:

I have been running a WS7 for the last year and a half, aprox 5-6 gallons. I decided to pull the motor apart for a little PM, and noticed a proportionaly large amount of carbon build-up just on the top of the piston. After some carefull cleaning I also noticed two very small nicks in the top of piston maybe from a coil on the plug. I was wondering what caused the build-up ie. tune, fuel, wrong plugs, and if the nicks in the piston itself would hurt performance or tune. I have been running OD 77t and 97t plugs. The rest of the motor is basically spotless and it ran fine prior to tear down.

hello, i also have a K9 and its giving me trouble at tuning. i am running 25%, should i take a shim out? Thank you

The carb is a little touchy to tune. Taking one shim out is not going to magically make it any easier to tune. Did you seal the carb?

Check out this video:
http://vimeo.com/7595905

ok problem solved, i have retuned the engine and is now running great. thank you for the tips.