Add more expensive shipping, CUSTOMS...- not only cost, but hassle.., less certainty with shipping and guarantee, etc..., and ordering from Amain is not quite as attractive. For German prices €225 for the F11 kit is simply amazing.

If Tower had it it might be worth it, because Tower has huge discounts for international orders. You still have the potential Customs stress though(not only the time, but adding %20-22 to the cost, including shipping..)

You can't really compare international prices one-to-one..

Chris Peralta - you have said before that the Fire 11 is the same as the Rally 11, but just with a different head, right? Cuz the Rally 11 is 50 bucks cheaper at amain...

Correct, they are the same engine with different cooling heads. The Rally engines don't come with the L2G heads.

OK, stuck home with a stomach flu, so doing some more daydreaming about what engine to treat myself to next..

Basically, I now have an Argus A52 with 0801 in my SC8, and really like it. Great engine.. But.., it's much more oriented to low-end power I find, and I think for my needs I need more mid-top.. Frankly, I need a screamer.. I want something to run in my SC8 and DM-1, and maybe a buggy. I'll probably even be running the SC8 as a quasi-onroader now and then..(it's fun..) And the local on-road track has a VERY llloooonngg straight... Right now I have a REX P215 (I think..), which the previous owner says he modded for more top-end, with the 9901.. It is a nice running engine - I ran it in my last buggy race and was pleased with it. but it's not what I would call spectacular. Then, with it in the DM-1 last weekend, it was doing better on this huge straight than the Go GX-5R was.. It was still pulling toward the end of the straight, but kind of vaguely..

My first choice is the Fire 11 - looks great.. But then there is the Rally 11 - same engine, different head, cheaper.. And now, while searching around, I find the Classico for $230 at amain.., and under €200 locally.. What is the Classico all about?

Another question, to what extent is the 2045 a must for these RB engines? I have several pipes - 2063, 9901/short, JP-4, 053, 0801, 2047, 2041, and I think that's it... The 9901/short is a top-end pipe, right? Would it match up well with the three engines I mentioned? Or better off getting the 2045?

Thanks..

The classico is an onroad engine and has a very small cooling head on it. The F11 or R11 will both be plenty fast. As for the pipes I think you should be fine with one of those pipes you have. Start with the 053 and then try as many as you can I am sure one will be just fine!!

Anyone had any problems with their RB Fire11?

I have ran the motor in and had a few heats, during the main it had a two flame outs but fired right up again no trouble.

When the final was over i went to fire it up again just to run some after run through it, but for some reason it just keeps getting stuck at tdc.

I have stripped the motor down, everything looks good, no bent rod, bad bearings, nothing.

So I bolted it all back up, pre heated it and straight away with no fuel, motor warm, it got stuck again at tdc.

Checked starter box motors and battery,(running twin 775 motors in starter box) and also tried spare starter box but same issue.

Anyone got any ideas on what is going on here.

Before the heats, finals it started up fine.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.

sounds like your engine is still not broken in .... How much experience with nitro do you have ?

Hi, Have been running nitro for about close to 5 years now. Had a few RB motors in that time but nothing like this has happened.

The problem is, the pinch at the top seams to have become tighter than it was brand new.

The only way to get it to turn over now (out of the buggy) is t use multi grips or pliers to turn it over (with the fly wheel on). You can't turn it over by hand.

I run an Ofna box with twin 775 motors and a Lipo to power them, Motor pre heated, plug out and it just locks up at tdc.

This really has me stumped as to what is going on.
Any ideas on what is going on and how get it fired up again is greatly appreciated.
Cheers.

what fuel do you run ?

possibly your engine is gummed up with caster oil....

I have been running 30% on all my motors with no gumming up of oil issues,
I have had that problem with 25%, so see where you are coming from.

Even with the freshly Cleaned after the stripping it down, It is as if the sleeve has gained more pinch at the top or the piston has expanded slightly.

I guess the only thing is more heat to see if it will turn over.
Cheers again.

Appreciated.

I agree with Maximo that it sounds like it's not broken in. Do you have any headshims? You can try adding a .1mm shim and running a #5 plug to help keep it running.. Also make sure when your running it out on the track your getting it up to 200 degrees. If your running super rich and only getting up to 150 or 160 then thats another reason it is dying as it's getting stuck. Try to heat it up over 180 each time you start it.

I agree with you Chris, if you are racing at night time, the later it gets, night time temps get cooler, and usually there is more moister in the air, which will make engines tune change big time, and run cooler, as Chris said, keep your engine temps up to at least 200 degrees.

Sounds like it's hydro-locking. Have you tried to turn the
engine over with the glowplug loosened up or taken completely
out of the engine ?
It could be that you have one of the new RB 2012 p/s set in
the engine. These new p/s sets pinch themselves as they wear
and will have a life expectancy of over sixty gallons of fuel.

Has anyone run a K10 with a 2058 pipe? Just wondering if it will give the same mileage improvements and performance gains over the 9901 as it did with my Werks B6.

Never tried the 2058, always have used a 2045, on the K-9, its the same as the K-10.