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Old 10-14-2011 | 08:30 AM
  #2356  
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Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
That engine protect actually helps protect even better than the flywheels that cup the engine case. The engine protect fits very snug where it would take small sand to get back in there. I run the Losi flywheel and the front bearing stays much cleaner with the engine protect than without it.
Thanks your advice is very good buy this product.
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Old 10-14-2011 | 09:01 AM
  #2357  
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Chris, thank you!

I'm happy with my ws9, 6 gallon and this like new.

Most want an upgraded engine and do not like to motor with brute force, I am worried about not finding a lot of spare parts for engines. But see that an engine takes 10.15 gallons, worth more than change the engine reform it.

I'll buy a X11, and install ceramic bearings as you indicated. Pipe 2045 + 192 it runs fine?


Once again thank you for your help!
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Old 10-14-2011 | 09:21 AM
  #2358  
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Originally Posted by Diegoli
Chris, thank you!

I'm happy with my ws9, 6 gallon and this like new.

Most want an upgraded engine and do not like to motor with brute force, I am worried about not finding a lot of spare parts for engines. But see that an engine takes 10.15 gallons, worth more than change the engine reform it.

I'll buy a X11, and install ceramic bearings as you indicated. Pipe 2045 + 192 it runs fine?


Once again thank you for your help!

Yep it will run great with that header and pipe combo. If you do have other pipes laying around you can always try those as well. The Orion 2058 works great on them as well. I have never been a big fan of any of the JP line of pipes on an RB but some people really like those pipes so it's all what feels best to you.

As far as parts..... RB no longer has the square stroke engines like the WS9 you have so basically all of the offroad engines except the K series are interchangeable when it comes to parts. bearings, rods, pistons, sleeves, cranks, and carbs will all work with one another. Of course the crank and the sleeve are going to change the characteristics of the engine if you end up using one from one of the other models.
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Old 10-18-2011 | 09:02 PM
  #2359  
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Default Question about shims for break in

I'll be breaking in my RB soon. I know if I run 30% I'm supposed to add a shim..My question is should I remove the shim after the break in process or should it stay in there??
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Old 10-19-2011 | 05:13 AM
  #2360  
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Default b11 carb settings

Hi everyone,
I just finished breaking in my new b11 and I am wondering if anyone can give me a ball park on the carb settings for race tune.
Thanks,
Mark
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Old 10-19-2011 | 07:50 AM
  #2361  
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Originally Posted by Rick-O
I'll be breaking in my RB soon. I know if I run 30% I'm supposed to add a shim..My question is should I remove the shim after the break in process or should it stay in there??

You can add it for breakin if you want as it might go a little easier. I never add the shims and know of many people that run 30% without adding the shims as well. I say you should just run it as it is and take it easy for the first gallon and you will be set.
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Old 10-19-2011 | 07:54 AM
  #2362  
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Originally Posted by mxracer23
Hi everyone,
I just finished breaking in my new b11 and I am wondering if anyone can give me a ball park on the carb settings for race tune.
Thanks,
Mark
My settings on my B11 will not be anywhere near yours as I race at high altitude so my settings would be VERY lean for you. How much fuel do you have thru it? Does it idle well? and for how long will it idle? What are your temps? What pipe are you running?

Normally the LSN should be right at flush or in from flush. Same for the HSN
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Old 10-19-2011 | 08:55 AM
  #2363  
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Chris,
I have 10 tanks through it now, temps went from 160 to 190 getting warmer as I leaned it during the process.

I am about 1/2 turn in on the idle and 1 1/2 turns in on the main, but I am still getting a rich condition on the idle takes about 2 secs to drop to a smooth idle.

I bouight the motor and pipe combo, running byron 30% in a 8ight with stock clutch setup 2 carbon 2 aluminum shoes silver and green springs.

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 10-19-2011 | 10:21 AM
  #2364  
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Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
You can add it for breakin if you want as it might go a little easier. I never add the shims and know of many people that run 30% without adding the shims as well. I say you should just run it as it is and take it easy for the first gallon and you will be set.
Ok, cool Thanks Chris
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Old 10-19-2011 | 10:25 AM
  #2365  
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Here in Germany they are selling the Fire 11 with 2045 pipe for an extremely attractive price. They are selling the Cross 11 with 2087 for €40 more.. I thought these were the same engines? With different heads though or whatever. Do the heads even make some difference in performance?... Have heard of issues for ex. with the Nova Toro Nero heads.. BTW, which Nova is the F11 based on?

Also, how do the pipes differ? Thanks.

ps Just browsed some more German online shops. Practically ALL of them are selling the F11 for huge deals. Starting to make me wonder why...

Last edited by Herrsavage; 10-19-2011 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 10-19-2011 | 12:20 PM
  #2366  
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage
Here in Germany they are selling the Fire 11 with 2045 pipe for an extremely attractive price. They are selling the Cross 11 with 2087 for €40 more.. I thought these were the same engines? With different heads though or whatever. Do the heads even make some difference in performance?... Have heard of issues for ex. with the Nova Toro Nero heads.. BTW, which Nova is the F11 based on?

Also, how do the pipes differ? Thanks.

ps Just browsed some more German online shops. Practically ALL of them are selling the F11 for huge deals. Starting to make me wonder why...

The Cross11 is a 3 port engine the F11 is a 7 port engine. The F11 will make a lot more power. They do some with the L2G head but recently people have been getting the F11 that has the same head as a B11 so maybe the older stock small heads are on clearance. The smaller heads do run hotter in my experience. I prefer the newer taller heads myself.

As Far as which Nova the F11 is close to? I am not for sure. I have heard some say it's similar to the FMS. It's really a lot like an onroad engine. Locally I race with a guy running one in truggy and his is FAST!!!!!

The pipes are similar but I feel the 2087 makes more torque and a little more overall power.
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Old 10-19-2011 | 01:08 PM
  #2367  
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Yeah, that sounds awesome. Sounds like it could be just what I'm looking for - a very powerful, high quality (but affordable..) 21 for my SC8 and DM-1, and maybe for shits and giggles the occasional race in my RC8B... I really like what I've heard and seen so far..

These German shops though - some selling the engine for €220, but the kit with 2045 pipe for €230.. Must be an oversupply of 2045's in the supply chain or something..

I get mixed up with these names. I think what you call the Cross 11 is called the X11 here.. Unless that's yet a different one.. Hard to keep up with all the RB engines..
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Old 10-19-2011 | 01:22 PM
  #2368  
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage
Yeah, that sounds awesome. Sounds like it could be just what I'm looking for - a very powerful, high quality (but affordable..) 21 for my SC8 and DM-1, and maybe for shits and giggles the occasional race in my RC8B... I really like what I've heard and seen so far..

These German shops though - some selling the engine for €220, but the kit with 2045 pipe for €230.. Must be an oversupply of 2045's in the supply chain or something..

I get mixed up with these names. I think what you call the Cross 11 is called the X11 here.. Unless that's yet a different one.. Hard to keep up with all the RB engines..
Cross11 is the same as the X11. The 2045 is the older pipe so they just might be clearing them out in these kits. The 2087 is the newest RB pipe.
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Old 10-19-2011 | 01:33 PM
  #2369  
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Nevermind..
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Old 10-19-2011 | 06:36 PM
  #2370  
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220 Euro = $302.42 USD 230 Euro = $316.08 USD Amain is cheaper $274.99 with pipe $339.99
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