RB Concept Engine Thread..
#2028
It's hot here in Singapore, 28-32c normally when I'm running and humidity is never far of 90%. I'm pretty sure that coupled with the 30% nitro puts me in the 6-7 plug range.
I think I'll take the shim out. I'm convinced the shim is dropping compression to the point that I'm having to run too lean to make power.
If it doesn't help with the temps or power I can always put it back in to be safe I guess.
Thanks for the help.
I think I'll take the shim out. I'm convinced the shim is dropping compression to the point that I'm having to run too lean to make power.
If it doesn't help with the temps or power I can always put it back in to be safe I guess.
Thanks for the help.
Nitrokiwi,
What are the temperatures like in your area of the world. Also the #7 plug is a colder plug.
As for running with 30% nitro, the instructions that came with the manual say to add 1 shim for 30% nitro, however here in the valley of california I have 3 engines, and several more from racers around here, that have never added the shim when running 30% nitro.
These engines are shimmed for 25% nitro from the factory and when you use the correct plug will run reliably for a very long time. Typically the #5,#6,#7 plugs are what are needed depending on temperature of your area. As for 30% nitro fuel I would personally not add the extra shim as I have had really good luck with 5 different engines going well above 9 gallons (I had one at 14 gallons and never even replaced a conrod that still ran when I sold it) on 30% nitro without having added an extra shim.
What are the temperatures like in your area of the world. Also the #7 plug is a colder plug.
As for running with 30% nitro, the instructions that came with the manual say to add 1 shim for 30% nitro, however here in the valley of california I have 3 engines, and several more from racers around here, that have never added the shim when running 30% nitro.
These engines are shimmed for 25% nitro from the factory and when you use the correct plug will run reliably for a very long time. Typically the #5,#6,#7 plugs are what are needed depending on temperature of your area. As for 30% nitro fuel I would personally not add the extra shim as I have had really good luck with 5 different engines going well above 9 gallons (I had one at 14 gallons and never even replaced a conrod that still ran when I sold it) on 30% nitro without having added an extra shim.
#2029
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 168
Hi Reno,
Im contemplating rejoining RB after a few years away and i have seen the B11 at a very good price.
I will be running 30% fuel will i need to add an additional shim to the engine?
Also what pipe combo would you reccomend for the engine i race in the UK and we dont really have any large tracks with long straights so i would be looking for the best overall package. maybe also a high rpm package too for the odd track that is.
Restrictor wise i used to have a lot of problems with flame outs after fuel stops no matter what i did it i was told that the restrictor may have been the cause as it was the smaller one in use. Im not sure if it was true or not but thats what scared me with my RB no matter what i did with the tune after a fuel stop it would cut and annoyingly not straight away it would wait till half way round the track

Thanks
Brian
Im contemplating rejoining RB after a few years away and i have seen the B11 at a very good price.
I will be running 30% fuel will i need to add an additional shim to the engine?
Also what pipe combo would you reccomend for the engine i race in the UK and we dont really have any large tracks with long straights so i would be looking for the best overall package. maybe also a high rpm package too for the odd track that is.
Restrictor wise i used to have a lot of problems with flame outs after fuel stops no matter what i did it i was told that the restrictor may have been the cause as it was the smaller one in use. Im not sure if it was true or not but thats what scared me with my RB no matter what i did with the tune after a fuel stop it would cut and annoyingly not straight away it would wait till half way round the track


Thanks
Brian
#2030
Hi Brian
No need to put an extra shim on your engine, it will run perfectly like this!
The b11 is a really good engine, you won't be disappointed! You can buy the combo B11 with pipe and header, it comes with the new 2087P pipe and 198P manifold which is a really good in-between. For more bottom end, you can go for the 204P manifold, but still the same pipe.
As for the reducer, 7 is a good combination, as the fuel economy is awesome, so you don't need to go lower! I would also recommend to try the oval venturi, for more bottom end and even better mileage.
As for the refueling, as soon as the engine will ok (not too rich) in the bottom, and mechanic don't put fuel on the pipe, you will be fine!! I advise to do a small protection on your body between the tank and the pipe, really useful in summer!
Enjoy!
Reno
No need to put an extra shim on your engine, it will run perfectly like this!
The b11 is a really good engine, you won't be disappointed! You can buy the combo B11 with pipe and header, it comes with the new 2087P pipe and 198P manifold which is a really good in-between. For more bottom end, you can go for the 204P manifold, but still the same pipe.
As for the reducer, 7 is a good combination, as the fuel economy is awesome, so you don't need to go lower! I would also recommend to try the oval venturi, for more bottom end and even better mileage.
As for the refueling, as soon as the engine will ok (not too rich) in the bottom, and mechanic don't put fuel on the pipe, you will be fine!! I advise to do a small protection on your body between the tank and the pipe, really useful in summer!
Enjoy!
Reno
#2031
Hey guys, I seem to have built up a collection of RB's just lately and currently, Im running a K10 in my JQ with a 2045 pipe.
Ive just bought a WS9, and read that the OS 2050 was a great pipe this engine, or will I be better sticking with the 2045? Im looking punch at the bottom end really, top end isnt too much of an issue as the tracks I run dont have really long straights.
Thanks,
Phil.
Ive just bought a WS9, and read that the OS 2050 was a great pipe this engine, or will I be better sticking with the 2045? Im looking punch at the bottom end really, top end isnt too much of an issue as the tracks I run dont have really long straights.
Thanks,
Phil.
#2033

Losi RE11 ---> OS 2050 afaik.
I read back in the pages of this thread that it was good for the WS9, no sure about the newer engines though?
#2034
Hey guys, I seem to have built up a collection of RB's just lately and currently, Im running a K10 in my JQ with a 2045 pipe.
Ive just bought a WS9, and read that the OS 2050 was a great pipe this engine, or will I be better sticking with the 2045? Im looking punch at the bottom end really, top end isnt too much of an issue as the tracks I run dont have really long straights.
Thanks,
Phil.
Ive just bought a WS9, and read that the OS 2050 was a great pipe this engine, or will I be better sticking with the 2045? Im looking punch at the bottom end really, top end isnt too much of an issue as the tracks I run dont have really long straights.
Thanks,
Phil.
#2035
The RE 11 is a good pipe for the OS engines, and the Ninja engines, the RB pipes will get you better fuel mileage, and performance, since they are designed for the RB e. The new engines, like the F11, and the X11, look to be good bottom end engines.
#2036
The X11 does have a pretty good bottom end but the B11 does have more torque as well as a more powerful mid to top end. I still don't think it has the top end of the WS7/9 engines tho. I am going to get the F11 next to try out in truck, the 1163-14 crank it comes with is the on-road crank and I have used that crank in a C6 before to get amazing bottom end that was actually too much in a buggy but great in a truck.
The 2045 is a good pipe but I have been running the new 2087 and that pipe is like a new improved 2045. I get better fuel economy, and it feels like I get more torque than the 2045 with just as much top end. You also have the option to use a 204mm header now to get even more bottom end if you need it.
The 2045 is a good pipe but I have been running the new 2087 and that pipe is like a new improved 2045. I get better fuel economy, and it feels like I get more torque than the 2045 with just as much top end. You also have the option to use a 204mm header now to get even more bottom end if you need it.
#2037
The X11 does have a pretty good bottom end but the B11 does have more torque as well as a more powerful mid to top end. I still don't think it has the top end of the WS7/9 engines tho. I am going to get the F11 next to try out in truck, the 1163-14 crank it comes with is the on-road crank and I have used that crank in a C6 before to get amazing bottom end that was actually too much in a buggy but great in a truck.
The 2045 is a good pipe but I have been running the new 2087 and that pipe is like a new improved 2045. I get better fuel economy, and it feels like I get more torque than the 2045 with just as much top end. You also have the option to use a 204mm header now to get even more bottom end if you need it.
The 2045 is a good pipe but I have been running the new 2087 and that pipe is like a new improved 2045. I get better fuel economy, and it feels like I get more torque than the 2045 with just as much top end. You also have the option to use a 204mm header now to get even more bottom end if you need it.
#2038
A-Main has them in stock as a pipe or pipe/header combo, and it is the pipe that will come with the B11 or X11 combo as well. The B11 combo comes with the 192 header and 2087 pipe and the X11 combo will come with a 198 header and a 2087 pipe.
#2039
call, me crazy i know usually on the tuning needles you go clockwise to lean and counter clock wise to richen . well on the idle screw it seems like going counter clockwise makes the gap bigger and clockwise seems to make the gap smaller 
this is on a rb engine .

this is on a rb engine .



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