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-   -   RB Concept Engine Thread.. (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/251409-rb-concept-engine-thread.html)

Chris Peralta 09-24-2010 10:44 AM


Originally Posted by Dr. Evil (Post 7981414)
Hi. Can the lack of a good gasket be an issue??

I don't think my gaskets are in bad shape. Fairly new, but,

what if the seal was not good. I was just thinking of possible issues that

might cause a leak.

Yes if those exhaust gaskets are bad you will have all kinds of tuning issues. That is the biggest issue I see people having at my local tracks. Many times the gasket between the header and the pipe is soo bad you can see oil has leaked and the header and pipe get a lot of buildup at the connection.

Dr. Evil 09-24-2010 11:06 AM

Leaks
 
Well, I have no leaks one either engine.

I think maybe it's on the o-rings. That's the only think I can think of..

Dr. Evil 09-24-2010 03:47 PM

Leaks
 
Aluminum washers on the Carb are crushed.

Maybe that could be it??

Chris Peralta 09-24-2010 05:11 PM

Well those washers are crush washers, when you tighten the HSN they crush and seal. If they are leaking you will see buildup around the HSN where they seal. I would really try to retune the way I suggested a few posts back. It's got to be either a tune issue or a fuel system issue.

cdc 09-24-2010 05:33 PM

New RB shark 10
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=9007

Dr. Evil 09-24-2010 06:58 PM

Shark 10
 
Go Rinard.

:sneaky::sneaky::sneaky::sneaky:

Dr. Evil 09-26-2010 01:56 PM

Config
 
Does anyone have base line needle settings for a RB Worlds S7?? :cry:

Thanks

Chris Peralta 09-26-2010 02:02 PM

stock settings:

LSN: 5 turns out from flush

HSN: 3.5 turns out from flush

Dr. Evil 09-26-2010 03:22 PM

Turns out
 
Would that be turns from bottom??

I think 5 turns from flush would put the needle out.


right??

Dr. Evil 09-26-2010 05:07 PM

Settings
 
Hi Chris.

It looks like settings are from bottom to out.

Buggy started really rich. Needed to lean out, but, that was the trick.

Idle issue has not gone away, but, it's no where as bad as it was. (Idles high

after engine is up to temp and engine is being reved. Stayed high for some

time, now it drops almost immediately. 1 - 2 seconds off) Wish I could say

the same for my Rossi engine. That puppy will stay at high rpm when you let

off the throttle. If you use brakes, it comes down. Go figure. (Hmm.

Clutch maybe?? Doesn't die if you stop though)

cdc 09-26-2010 05:10 PM


Originally Posted by Dr. Evil (Post 7989596)
Hi Chris.

It looks like settings are from bottom to out.

Buggy started really rich. Needed to lean out, but, that was the trick.

Idle issue has not gone away, but, it's no where as bad as it was. (Idles high

after engine is up to temp and engine is being reved. Stayed high for some

time, now it drops almost immediately. 1 - 2 seconds off) Wish I could say

the same for my Rossi engine. That puppy will stay at high rpm when you let

off the throttle. If you use brakes, it comes down. Go figure. (Hmm.

Clutch maybe?? Doesn't die if you stop though)

Might be the clutch

Chris Peralta 09-26-2010 08:46 PM

If using brakes brings the idle down then your trims are not set correctly and when you go to neutral your throttle is not closing all the way.

Dr. Evil 09-27-2010 04:00 AM

Trim
 
Well, that's what I had already suspected. I see the linkage upon getting off the throttle goes to newtral, but, either the carb doesn't close all the way or the spring on the linkage isn't closing it. If I push the spring further, then I won't have any brakes.

If I push the linkage rod connecting to the carb, then it closed. I have spacing on the backside of the linkage for the carb, but, the space is only taken up slowly upon closure unless I use the brakes.

The linkage rod seems straight, the linkage plastic piece that holds the rod seems clear. The carb doesn't seem hard to close and it's all in a straight line.

But, it closes slowly at the very end. I'll check the servo. maybe there is some
slop in the gears which would only give full movement in one direction.

aznitronut 09-27-2010 06:20 AM


Originally Posted by Dr. Evil (Post 7991499)
Well, that's what I had already suspected. I see the linkage upon getting off the throttle goes to newtral, but, either the carb doesn't close all the way or the spring on the linkage isn't closing it. If I push the spring further, then I won't have any brakes.

If I push the linkage rod connecting to the carb, then it closed. I have spacing on the backside of the linkage for the carb, but, the space is only taken up slowly upon closure unless I use the brakes.

PThe linkage rod seems straight, the linkage plastic piece that holds the rod seems clear. The carb doesn't seem hard to close and it's all in a straight line.

But, it closes slowly at the very end. I'll check the servo. maybe there is some
slop in the gears which would only give full movement in one direction.

Check to see if your servo horn screw is loose, the locking collar on the outside of your throttle may need to be spaced out from the servo.

Chris Peralta 09-27-2010 06:24 AM

That is exactly what your problem is. That spring on your throttle bar should be tight at neutral and should push the throttle closed at neutral, if there is any slop in that spring you are not set up properly. If you give your radio a little brake trim this should move the throttle arm in the direction you want, if it starts to engage your brakes when you do that you may have to adjust your brake collars so they are not engaged when your at neutral and the throttle is being fully closed. If this fixes your issue you should set your brake trim back to 0 and make the adjustments from the subtrim setting in your radio.


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