RB Concept Engine Thread..
#1501
If you have been running OS plugs in your head button you have probably damaged the button and it will never seal right with an RB or Nova plug. You might have to get a new turbo button to run RB plugs again as the taper is not the same. The way you describe the engine going from good to bad after 5 minutes is very strange and seems like it might be an air leak of some sort when up to temp. I also agree with Nitronut about getting these engines modded, the C6USA is already a modded engine and when someone is grinding on a crankshaft or sleeve with a dremel it won't take much of an oops to make a stud a dud. I have also seen with most modded motors I have helped people with that the tuning gap ends up very very small, and when they are tuned right there they are amazing but when they are off they struggle. If you are at sea level the C6USA should pull your truck around very easily. I run at 6,000 ft and my USA is a ROCKET in truggy.
#1502
I shimmed it back to .020" and it runs well now. Somebody gave me the wrong info about the head shims. I'm sticking with os plugs, they have worked very well in the 3 nova based engines i've had. I don't know about rb plugs but nova plugs have been a joke the last 2 years at the track. And you're correct, once you go to os plugs you have to stick with them because they alter the taper at the plug seat. It's not like you can find a C6 USA head button anywhere, so os it is.
#1503
You can stay with the OS plugs, but go to a colder plug, rather then the plug you have been using is way to hot for the rbs, you can use like an A5, that hot plug you have used will make the engine run hot. You can use, i think the cross 10 head button, or if you have a old standard plug head button, you can use it.
#1505
#1507
Damn sure is. 01082-R. Same p/n. I run P5 plugs in it. P4 if it's cold out. I'm not against RB plugs, they are scarce here. I can get OS plugs at taco bell's drive-thru, lol. P6's won't even keep my JP running cuz it's they're so cold and i'm only running .6mm shims in a motor that had .7mm in it. A 97t is hotter than a P3.
#1508
Tech Regular
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 389
I shimmed it back to .020" and it runs well now. Somebody gave me the wrong info about the head shims. I'm sticking with os plugs, they have worked very well in the 3 nova based engines i've had. I don't know about rb plugs but nova plugs have been a joke the last 2 years at the track. And you're correct, once you go to os plugs you have to stick with them because they alter the taper at the plug seat. It's not like you can find a C6 USA head button anywhere, so os it is.
#1513
Fooled with this thing all day. I give up. Pulled it off just so i have a chance to finish a qualifier. I've had P4 to P6 in it. Very inconsistant engine. It showed signs of being an outright animal for maybe 2 minutes then it goes south. Compression is low now and it might have 2 gallons on it including break in. No more RB for me.
#1514
Hi guys and gals.
I have a problem with an RB Worlds S7. (Original)
I rebuilt the unit a few weeks ago.
Here is what I did.
New Front /Rear Bearing.
New P/S/Con Rod.
cleaned the case.
Installed the above.
sealed the carb/back plate.
Unit fired up with no problem.

Unit was broken in with the breakin bible instruction. (First time)
Idled like a dream.

Now. Here is where it gets interesting.
Finished breaking it in No problems. Idle still no problem. I live in higher
altitude 4400 feet above sea level.
First time out, I went to Revelation Raceway this weekend. (First time racing
there. Nice Track, great owner)


Would not idle for anything. Wouldn't die either. (Good thing)
What I meant is, when it's cold, (just starting) outside temp 100 degrees, the
engine is fine. idles great, when the engine comes up to temp (180), it also
raised its idle. blip on it, it might come down, it might not. Tends to stay
that way even when running it. Temps are I think around 240.
I suspect the front bering might have gone leaking. Some oil on the front of
engine. Not bad, but, some.
It's not the tank or fuel line. When the mains came up, I missed 2 laps of my
race because I was swapping engines. The backup engine didn't have
idle issues or anything.
Any suggestions. ??

I have a problem with an RB Worlds S7. (Original)
I rebuilt the unit a few weeks ago.
Here is what I did.
New Front /Rear Bearing.
New P/S/Con Rod.
cleaned the case.
Installed the above.
sealed the carb/back plate.
Unit fired up with no problem.


Unit was broken in with the breakin bible instruction. (First time)
Idled like a dream.


Now. Here is where it gets interesting.

Finished breaking it in No problems. Idle still no problem. I live in higher
altitude 4400 feet above sea level.
First time out, I went to Revelation Raceway this weekend. (First time racing
there. Nice Track, great owner)



Would not idle for anything. Wouldn't die either. (Good thing)
What I meant is, when it's cold, (just starting) outside temp 100 degrees, the
engine is fine. idles great, when the engine comes up to temp (180), it also
raised its idle. blip on it, it might come down, it might not. Tends to stay
that way even when running it. Temps are I think around 240.
I suspect the front bering might have gone leaking. Some oil on the front of
engine. Not bad, but, some.
It's not the tank or fuel line. When the mains came up, I missed 2 laps of my
race because I was swapping engines. The backup engine didn't have
idle issues or anything.
Any suggestions. ??





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