Hi. I don't know if you were talking to me or the other conversation.

OS No. 8.

RB,s don,t run good with os glow plugs.

Try using a RB or o,donnell glow plug.

Hi.

I would believe you, but, why when breaking in the engine, I had no idle problems at all.

Even after I return home, the engine does the same thing.

Not to mention, why would the glow plug allow the idle to change ??

I have never heard of this.

BTW, put in an Odonnell last night. No change. Same thing.

If you really only have two gallons on it the engine should barely be getting broken in. If it is already low on compression something went wrong during break in because any of my engines with 2 gallons on them can't be turned over by hand when the engine is in the car. I do understand you being frustrated but you can't say it's the RB's fault when you bought a used engine added a new piston and sleeve and then had it modified.

When you put a new rod, sleeve, and piston it in did you also replace the wrist pin? What you problem sounds like is what the engines do when they are stillnew and tight. These engine take 1 sometimes 2 gallons to fully break in and when they are tight like that you have to run the idle a little high or it will get stuck at the top and die on ya. at 100 degrees outside 240 might be a little rich still but thats actually good if your still rich. These engine take so long to break in it really isn't a good idea to do a break in of 5-10 tanks then take to the track to race it. Most times I have seen people do this they run them too lean while they are too tight because they want max power now, this wears out the engine and you will loose compression FAST.Try getting out for a practice day and just run it and run it and run it and you will notice it will get faster and faster the more fuel you burn thru it.

I put a new rb p/s/r assembly in it. It wasn't very snug when brand new. All my engines are modded. If you add up all the problems i've ever had with all my nitro engines over the years it's less than this engine has given me. I'm not saying the rb's are junk, that would be a ridiculous statement. In my opinion they are hands down better than novas. I have to tear the engine down cuz now it doesn't feel right when the piston is coming back down after tdc. It has some kind of strange drag on it. I bought a bottle of lucky 7 from Joe at the race yesterday and this doesn't compute since i've never had to seal an engine before. It already ate the 1st rear ceramic bearing a couple weeks ago when i was trying different carbs on it. It now has a new set of tko's front and rear. I'm gonna tear it back down again and get both p/s sets i have pinched, put the rb carb back on it and seal it up like a jackass. I will contact Uriah tomorrow and let him know what's going on since he's the one who modded it. And i will say if you are an rb fan and frown on Murnan Mods you don't what you're saying. He is thee RB specialist. A racing aquaintance had this engine before i bought it and always begged for my help to tune it. It's been a problem child for a while. Hell even my speed was a problem yesterday as the front bearing just falls outta the block now. I want to say that for maybe 2 min. intervals while warming up this engine was astounding. It was throwing my truggy around like it weighed 3 lbs. It's hard for me to believe a quality engine has an air leak but that is how it acts. I'm not buying the glowplug thing though.

Hey

I´d like to hear how you like your K9 or K10. How many Gallons have you through it? What did you change? What do you think about the performance?
And which pipes can you recommend? Is the 2045 the best?

I would be happy about any answer

Grinder knows RB's for sure. I would check the needle O rings and carb boot as well. It sounds like it may have sucked the element out of the plug and damaged the piston( I hope not ). Good luck with it.

It's never ate a glow plug and i've had the original carb, my nova fms carb and a speed carb on it.

I have had a WS7 III as well for over 3 years. I have done the same thing; bearings, seals, piston/sleeve, etc. I have gone the “new” P/S as well as the “pinched” route. I have also added a turbo head button also. When the engine is new/rebuilt and tight it runs awful; hot, no power, really does not respond to tuning very well. Almost the same symptoms as an air leak. The “mechanical pinch” from the new P/S generates a lot of heat as well a stress on the connecting rod. Take the glow plug out and spin the engine over. Do you feel any resistance at TDC? If so you still have “mechanical pinch”. A fully broken engine will not have much if any resistance at TCD. Like Chris said, after about 1.5 gallons to 2 gallons that baby will start to wake up! It happened to me this past weekend. The WS7 III was running so poorly I almost did not run it. Then during practice Friday night and Saturday morning it started to wake up. Buy the time the qualifiers started it was one of the fastest buggies on the track and it was still not in full race tune. I had forgotten how fast this engine is! I even got 10 minutes on one tank of fuel. I run an O’Donnell T97 plug, Byron’s 25%, RB 2045 pipe, and a RB 192 header, 1.0 clutch springs, Ascendancy Racing 4 shoe clutch, and a 7.5 restrictor. At Chris’s suggestion, I went to a larger spur gear to help the low end punch. That was the ticket! Ever since I switched to O’Donnell glow plugs I have not had any glow plug issues. I run them in my Novarossi Plus 21-4C "TEAM" as well with great results! I highly recommend them. They are cheap as well.

If your engine is good for the first two minutes then goes bad you are WAY to lean, these engines should be rich and slow for your first 4 laps or so. Maybe your right and I don't know what I am talking about.... Good luck!

Interestingly enough, I put in new bearings when I rebuilt the engine.

The font bearing apparently went bad.

Nice.

Replaced with a new one and so far, idle problem went away.

Bearing leaked through the double seal.

Take off one seal and you can see light throught the other (Surprised the seal

actually stayed on, flicked off with my fingernail)

Hmm. I don't think I will be purchasing Protek bearings again. I was just testing to see how these would hold up.

Back to TKO. Get what you pay for..

Always liked that saying You get what you Pay for. Man thats the truth. Iv also had a few problems with protek bearing. Went back to Tko and Boca bearing if you got the extra penny some times and never looked back. Speedyrob

Now where was i? Not accepting defeat i tore the USA down and to be honest didn't really see anything out of the ordinary except low compression. As i stated before the new p/s/r assembly i bought from rb had the least amount of metal pinch new than anything i ever bought. I found that the newer piston fit very snug in my old original sleeve, really snug. After a lengthy conversation with Neal at Clockwork he suggested the block may have a hairline crack so i swapped it out with a spare block i had. This was one of the tightest engines i've tried to start. My ofna blue box with a pair of lipos really struggled. Took a while to break it in. I even took the speed carb off and went back to my fms carb(can't seem to locate the rb carb at the moment). Both carbs look identical. After break in i leaned on it a little and had the carb setup identical to where i raced the fms. It's manners are perfect. I ran tank after tank without shutting it off. Always idled nice, never leaned out and will do full throttle to full stop to full throttle time after time and never act up. Damn block was cracked. I didn't put any sealer on the engine and i still have the P4 plug in it from the race Sunday. I want to thank everybody for their help and suggestions. Sorry to Chris Peralta for aggravating the hell outta ya, lol. If anybody has a spare block they want to sell pm me please. The one i'm using had the locater pin broke off for the sleeve and a new one is in not in the original location causing me to put a new notch in the sleeve. That's a pain.

RB,s are super tight when new.