Well let me see here. I had my Reedy for 4 gallons. Bearings sounded as if they were going bad. Replaced them, and the new rear bearing split in half. Cleaned, recleaned and cleaned the old stock bearing, checked and double checked the fit. So far it's at about 4 1/2 - 3/4 gallons and running as strong as ever. Still running a little on the rich side to make sure everything is well lubed after reassembly and getting 8 mins. out of it with the FT2035 pipe and header, 97T plug and 7mm restrictor. Going to up the clutch bell to 17t on my RC8B to kill some of the hammer like acceleration and gain some top end down the straight on our track. But it runs with everything at the track and nothing pulls on it out of the corners.:)

You could ask Abyie or Gareth. They ran them all summer I believe. I have one as well. I'm in Cali for school. So mine is sitting at home.

i only have 1 gallon on my reedy's

Well, my story begins with the first quart of Byron's 30%. The putty came out off the crank?!? :cry::weird::flaming: I pulled the crank and bearings out & cleaned everything up. Then, I fixed the crank with Yamaha bond liquid silicone. While i had the engine apart, I did a slight mod. I rose the exhaust port & added 4mm gas ports to the piston, to relive presure & lighten it up a bit. I added fuel channels around the inner bearing. Next, I ever-so-slightly modded the boost port & intake ports - nothing major-just a slight massage & I also added a relief bevel to the back side of the trailing edge of the crank. I reassembled the engine & all I can say is, "WOW!!! This thing rocks! :D " I get 11minute run times in my RC8t & I have raced against just about everything out there! :sneaky: My motor holds its own - hands down - not taking anything away from a stock Reedy (they are great engines-I love the little guys! :nod:) My race partner runs a stock one in his RC8t - he also gets 11 minute run times, but, to drive each truck, my motor comes on harder & has a little more top end. After 4 gallons, I had to have RayARacing do a pinch on the sleeve :) & I installed a new rod & bearings. The crank pin has a little wear, but I ran out of money - so its go or blow. Maybe I'll ge lucky & Santa will bring me one for Christmas!!! :tire::tire::tire::tire:

Can't wait to run mine.:nod:

If you'd like to send it in we can look at it there. Just address the package to me, Chris, and I will look at it for you. It doesn't sound like a customer induced problem so send it in with your return address, contact phone number and if you have a copy of your sales receipt it would be beneficial.

Chris will take care of you.

chris is a great guy.:nod:

hi, i'm hoping someone here can help me a little.

i run a reedy,love the engine to bits. i have just changed fuel brand and going from 25% up to £30%, should i have added the extra shim in the motor ?

i have added the extra shim that came with the motor,and can't really get it running right. its had 1/2 a gallon through on the new fuel , starts good, idles good,raced today and although finished 3rd in buggy 'a' final, it sounds like a bag of spanners on the track.

still making good power,but not quite where it was before . a little rich sometimes, then a little lean sometimes,during the same heat/final.

running the same pipe/plug combo as i usually do and everything is nicely sealed.

any help is appreciated,

cheers,

mick.

Yes, you have the wrong shims, in. The motor came ready to run 30% fuel. The shim that came with it, was to replace the other bigger shim that was installed on the motor to give it more clearance. You should NOT be running all 3 shims together. I forget the measurements of the shims, you may have to measure the shims to get them right.

Run the motor with the shims that were in it when you bought it.

cool, cheers. i was kind of unsure.

thanks for the prompt reply.

what shims should i be using for 25% then?
i have been running the stock ones with pretty good results
the only problem i've had is with fuel milage (i think i'm still running it too rich)

also, i heard you shouldn't use after run oil in this engine because of the insert in the crank, is this true?

I havent heard anything about the after run oil thing, but now that I think about it..

The motor comes setup for 30% fuel, and that consists of the 2 smaller shims.

Some will cause the stuffing to come out ? It's been a problem when using certain after-run oil's in the past with stuffed cranks.

You can use Mineral Oil from a Pharmacy as a after-run oil. Just a couple CC's will do.

so what shims should i run?