hows everyone breaking these in? by what the book says? or the tried and trued "heat cycle"??

is this true about the afterrun oil, and where did you here it?
should i use it in my reedy or not?

Yes its true. Just run the tank out if your going to park the car for a week or two. Also read the first post in this thread bellow.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ing-bible.html

I idled 6 tanks through mine on the box before putting it on the ground. Keeping the engine at 200 deg. and letting the motor cool down to outside temperature between each tank. Heat cycling. The next few tanks on the track I ran very rich, not racing anyone. Again shutting down between each tank. Performance really came up at the 1 gallon point. Sidewinder 30% on the fuel.

Anyone know if the racers edge after run oil has silicone oil in it? From the tuning book it says its a good idea to use after run oil as long as it doesn't have silicone in it. Wish I knew, won't be using it until I know for sure.

the best thing for keeping the motor hot while at idle, is to use a 1/10 scale foam tire insert and put it around the head. Fits snug and is a hell of a lot easier than wrapping in tin foil.

I did what Brandon Powell did, but only idled 4 tanks, then drove it rich but WITH the foam on the head and it stayed around 240. After 4 tanks of that, start rae tune.

I have 5 gallons on mine and it feels like it did after 2 gallons.

i would use mineral oil and be done with it. I'm using a little Amsoil Saber Professional synthetic 2 stroke oil for storage.

Ran the Reedy alittle bit more and this time i had a re11 losi pipe on (2050 copy) and it was much more top end then the 053mr pipe i had on. It also got better fuel mileage and i had to lean it up about 2 hours on the HSN. Has alot more noticeable top end and was temping around 215-230. Has one gallon through it so far and just sealed the back plate. Rod is snug and fine.

Pics arent the best i took them on my iphone.

http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...4/54324c82.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...4/9599293e.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...4/653703c6.jpg

Why does the crank look rusty?

Is this engine worth getting? I was thinking about getting two of these or two OS Speeds. What do you guys think?

It looks like burn up oil in person i didn't touch anything in there may just wipe off. I dunno, runs great so far no complaints.

It's been good to me for 1 gallon. I would get the v-spec pro modified one, it's a speed on the inside for a cheaper price.

You can buy two Reedy's for the price of one speed.

that' what I was thinking, lol.

RBFIVE- I did a back to back pipe comparison at the track on Thursday, where I tested the re-11 and the 2035 within 20 minutes of each other same track, weather, etc..

They did tune different, like you said I noticed I had to lean the re11 out more, but to my surprise I got 34 seconds more run time with the 2035 and the motor ran 10 degrees cooler with the 2035.

As for the top end, I tried it because I figured it would wake the top up, but to be 100% honest, I couldn't tell the difference in speed, little different pitch to the motor, but with higher temps and lower run times, the re11 or 2050 just didn't cut it. I'll be sticking with the 2035 until I get my hands on something else to test. I ordered a TT2039 to try out, it looks like the 2035 but a little shorter.

I thought the pro mod just had the crank, ceramic rear bearing and the carb from the speed? The rod and piston are from the speed too? I already have a VZB(blue head) with speed internals. But I think it's starting to see its day. I wanted to try something different but you can't go wrong with the OS reliability.

I love the way the reedy looks and runs on the track. And for the price tag you also can't go wrong. Im just a little iffy on how hot they run. i like to run my motor a little bit cooler. Around 200-210 since i race on a smaller track there is really no point to get the temps real high. I also have been seeing that a lot of guys are having trouble with the tuning.

You are the first person I have seen run that engine at those temps. How was the performance of it those temps? If it ran good at those temps, it would be a motor I would consider now. I liked the way it looks on paper, but just to see so many running at those high temps is something I am not to keen to.

this reedy engine looks very impressive. only thing is i know there is a bearing issue on the inside of the engine i just think that if i get it i will have a lot of bearing and reliability issues. also do you think this will be a 10 gallon engine before rebuild. let me know

Couldn't agree more. I don't like running my engine in a really high window. These engines tend to lean out later in the race.

I haven't tried a 2035 yet but my buddy did and it wasn't much diff then the 2053. The re11 gives this motor a bit more up top.

From my experience when your running your engine hotter your just leaning it out to get more power then the engine wants to make. My engine runs great at 215-230

by no means am i any sort of engine tuning guru but, I believe that you should use temps as a guideline. I tune for smoke and performance. I am quite lucky to have about a million years of rc experience pitting with me as well.
I have seen my reedy run anywhere from 225 to 260 depending on the weather conditions. I have not once seen a lack of smoke from the pipe so I am happy.

Good point. Smoke, performance, and feel. Then I check the temps. There is so much more to engine temps than just a tune. Mechanical differences from one truggy/buggy to another will make a difference. And lets not overlook weight differences. I have run motors in my stuff anywhere from 190's to 280's with no ill effect. Although I hate to run them as cold as that(190). But, that's the tune the motor needed to run good that day.....so thats what it got.

agreed temps are a good guideline for sure
on Nova N21BF Limited with the stock head, it wouldnt run good until the 240-250 range but then the carb started to vapor lock
215-230 ran ok but not much power
even at the 250 range there was a ton of smoke so the protection was there but vapor locking a carb isnt very fun

i have since changed out to a larger cooling head
replacing front bearing also since it was leaking
i think it will be a pretty decent club motor though
once the bearing is in it

Saturday night at the TN Pro Series race I pitted at the 9 minute mark with the 121vr. It ran from 245- 255 degrees in quals and main.

i have never ran a nova, so i have no idea.... and every motor has its own quirks lol.

I ran the 121vr in my rc8t with a 16t clutchbell and the stock spur and WOW! that thing was wicked. It still had crazy bottom end, but it felt a little lean in the bottom and rich on top... she came off at 220 after about 25 minutes(had a screw come out of my rear upper link). I have about a gallon on the motor now and it seems to just get better

Im not too impressed so far with this motor. The front bearing on mine is leaking terribly after a 1/2 gallon of run time. Runs pretty good, just very inconsistent. Even before the bearing started leaking. Also my friend had the insert in the crank come out and ruin the motor.

Finally got my Reedy to run with out the bottom end lean bog (take your time with the carb) I was running on an extremely wide open track, very little jumps, longs straits, on the gas alot. We were temping right around 260 at the end of the 30min main, and still felt a little rich. I was lucky to get 7min on a tank, but think the track layout had a little bit to do with milage.

As Turner said above, I to am noticing quite a bit of seaping from the front bearing, but not quite enough that I was concerned. I plan on replacing both bearings after I get a full gallon through (at about 3/4 right now).

I have about 3 gallons through my Reedy so far and I don't have any bearing leaks or anything like that. I've noticed that this engine does have a small window for an optimal tune and runs a bit hotter than some other engines. I was running P3 and P4 plugs, but I'm going to try a 97T this weekend. I'm also planning on changing the bearings and rod in another gallon as a precaution.

I also have tried a few different pipes and like the RE11 the best so far. It really brought the top end of the engine alive as opposed to the 2035 and 2053. I'm getting about 8 minutes 30 seconds out of a tank. I'm still not 100% in love with this engine, but for the money, it has been good so far.

front bearings will sometimes seep oil when the motor is running to rich. How bad is it, how much oil are you seeing?

If anyone has any problems with their engine - bad bearings, crank insert falling out, whatever - be sure to contact AE customer service and you will be taken care of. If they don't treat you right, you can PM me and I will take care of it.

Its alot more than Ive seen before, on any engine. My extech I had the bearing didnt start leaking until 3 gallons. And that still wasnt as much as I saw saturday. Not rich at all, lean if anything. Came off the track at 160F on Sat. I barely got 7 min on a tank also. Im using the 053mr though. Thats all i have.

Hi there, I don't want to sound like I'm questioning your judgement, but if it's only running 160, you are rich, and if it only gets 7 minutes, again, you are rich, and if you run rich for extended periods of time, the front bearing will leak.

I would think 160F is pretty rich and could be why the front bearing is leaking a little.

Lol, sorry Brandon beat me to it!

+1 on that ...

I assume 160 was a typo yes? Did you mean 260? I'd be surprised if that thing moved under it's own power at 160!

Haha yes that was a typo. I thought it sounded weird when I did it but didnt catch it. 260F. Final answer. The engine wont do anything for me under 230.

Oops

Well ya, you have to run them around 245-275 for the best performance. Sounds like your needles are wrong if your running at 260 and its a turd. Here is Brent's needle settings to help you out a little.

Plug = O.S. P4
Pipe = Factory Team 2035
Restrictor = 7 mm
Head Shims = 0.50 mm
Fuel = Sidewinder 30% World Blend
Top End Needle = 2 1/2 Turns Out From Bottom
Bottom End Needle = 3 1/4 Turns Out From Bottom
Temp = ~250 Degrees F

I would also put this motor in a RC8B, them OD cars are slow. :lol:

Thanks for those settings. Ill see where im at. No i meant the cars a turd at 230. Around 260 though it really came alive. Yea there slow but if it were any faster i couldnt drive it haha.

I just took my first Reedy motor apart, I am modding one for a customer. From a appearance standpoint the box is awesome, casting on the block is the best I've seen, head is very nice. Machining looks great and the head button is cool. After digging into it I wonder why they went with the oiling hole in the crank like the Std. V-spec? The crank is chrome plated, have never seen that before but it might work good. The crank seems a little soft but the chrome should wear well. With some timing changes I think this motor will run really well. A few companies have tried to copy the V-spec but not one has ever copied everything.

Rex

isn't there a pro version of the 121vr?

There is a pro version coming.