Originally Posted by mrcdub (Post 6197360)

I need help. My motor temps between 270-300 and idles great but it continues to stall. It stalls in the air, on throttle and off. I'm using an OD 97T plug. Do I need to try a colder plug? Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by SkarTisu (Post 6196088)

Yup. Use a little Green Slime on both sides of the gasket between the carb and engine block, and use Loctite on the carb fixing screws.

Originally Posted by Kingsbury (Post 6198326)

Keep using that type of plug, try a new one. I've been running my Reedy at max 240 with great performance. Yeah this engine been ran at higher temps but I think 300 for a race tune is a little much. Try richening your top an hour at a time until your at 3 and see how good top end performance you get. Do a few short bursts of throttle and let it idle. See how long it takes for your idle to come down. If it takes a pretty long time i.e. greater than 15 seconds, your probably a little too lean on the bottom. From the idle position grab the gas hard and tell us the reaction of the engine. lots of smoke? bogs?

Also what type of fuel are you using and are the shims in the engine stock?

Originally Posted by porter (Post 6201261)

When you put the green slime on the gastket do you rub it in, or do you just goop in on and squish it between the carb and case?

Originally Posted by Nick Simpson (Post 6203258)

Hi guys can anybody tell me how many head shims they are running for 30%

Originally Posted by frontrunner (Post 6203474)

Hey i just got myself a reedy 21, but was wondering what pipe i should get, people say the 2035 is suitable for it, if thats the case is there any difference between the Thunder Tiger 2035 and the team associated 2035 pipe ?

Originally Posted by SinistiR (Post 6201852)

My first carb I sealed the top and bottom of the spacer with Hylomar and I dont think I helped anything by sealing it. My second engine, I made sure the mating surfaces of the spacer were flat. If you look at them, it appears they are hand finished to remove any high spots. Then I loaded the bolts up with loctite and just tightened the bolts enough so that the carb would not rotate anymore. It has worked great for me so far with 3/4 of a gallon through her.

Andy

Originally Posted by SkarTisu (Post 6202438)

The gasket's hard plastic, so I didn't try working the green slime into the surface at all. Just try to spread a LITTLE slime evenly (it doesn't take much at all to make a seal) and tighten the carb.

Originally Posted by Nick Simpson (Post 6203258)

Hi guys can anybody tell me how many head shims they are running for 30%

Originally Posted by j8ight13 (Post 6211672)

Has anyone tried to run the 121VR with the Losi RE-10? I think im going to pick two of these guys up. The track I run is a short to medium size and from what Ive been hearing this mill is all about that. Anyone know where they stock the parts for it? Ive checked Horizon and them seem to be out of stock on pretty much everything.

Thanks

Originally Posted by j8ight13 (Post 6211672)

Has anyone tried to run the 121VR with the Losi RE-10? I think im going to pick two of these guys up. The track I run is a short to medium size and from what Ive been hearing this mill is all about that. Anyone know where they stock the parts for it? Ive checked Horizon and them seem to be out of stock on pretty much everything.

Thanks

Originally Posted by j8ight13 (Post 6211672)

Has anyone tried to run the 121VR with the Losi RE-10? I think im going to pick two of these guys up. The track I run is a short to medium size and from what Ive been hearing this mill is all about that. Anyone know where they stock the parts for it? Ive checked Horizon and them seem to be out of stock on pretty much everything.

Thanks

Originally Posted by InfiniteMotors (Post 6211731)

SinistiR and I run at XRC in PA, which is definitely short to medium with one 75ft straight. I've watched the 121vr closely while marshalling and honestly it seems to be the best engine for this type of track short of an OS Speed or modded engine. I kept watching closely how it pulled the D8 out of a hairpin that leads directly into a double and came to that conclusion. He can start on throttle while still turning, then punch it just before he straightens out and clear the double with ease. Average engines with good mid to top end power have to swing this hairpin a bit wider in order to clear the double. For our smallish track, this mills punch can really get you around the track fast if used properly.

On the other hand, with the Associated 2035 pipe and stock clutch bell he's running out of steam 3/4 of the way down the straight. This is at a consistent 245-250 degrees. We think the 17t will fix this and honestly with all that bottom I doubt it will cause any problems.

I'd like to see what a 2050(RE11) and 2060(RE10) pipe does to the 121VR, I'll tell him to throw them on this week and we'll see what happens.


-Jake

Originally Posted by InfiniteMotors (Post 6211731)

SinistiR and I run at XRC in PA, which is definitely short to medium with one 75ft straight. I've watched the 121vr closely while marshalling and honestly it seems to be the best engine for this type of track short of an OS Speed or modded engine. I kept watching closely how it pulled the D8 out of a hairpin that leads directly into a double and came to that conclusion. He can start on throttle while still turning, then punch it just before he straightens out and clear the double with ease. Average engines with good mid to top end power have to swing this hairpin a bit wider in order to clear the double. For our smallish track, this mills punch can really get you around the track fast if used properly.

On the other hand, with the Associated 2035 pipe and stock clutch bell he's running out of steam 3/4 of the way down the straight. This is at a consistent 245-250 degrees. We think the 17t will fix this and honestly with all that bottom I doubt it will cause any problems.

I'd like to see what a 2050(RE11) and 2060(RE10) pipe does to the 121VR, I'll tell him to throw them on this week and we'll see what happens.


-Jake

Originally Posted by j8ight13 (Post 6212551)

I was actually at that race. I was watching that D8 like a hawk. That thing puurrrred. Thats where I actually made up my mind for the engine. Yeah let me know what his take is on the losi pipes. I actually have both of those pipes. the re-10 is what im using right now on my truggy with my VZB and i wouldn't change it for anything.

megasaxon-thanks again! I forgot about that site, i'll check that out as well.

Originally Posted by InfiniteMotors (Post 6212824)

Do you race at XRC? I usually run my MP9, might be switching to truggy soon.

I use exactly the same setup, VZB/RE10 in the MP9. Almost every recommendation I've seen for the VZB has been 2050/RE11 but XRC is my closest and favorite track, so the RE10 seemed like the better choice.

Originally Posted by wfo (Post 6213696)

Does anyone have the rear bearing size, is it a 14x25.4x6 ? Thanks...

Originally Posted by porkchop (Post 6213699)

14x25.0x6
call tko they should be in stock

Originally Posted by PTP Racing (Post 6215151)

I think Hobby Huts track is a little bigger than XRC but the straight is about the same just the Hobby Hut track goes a bit further back away from the drivers stand.

I had a great time at XRC this past weekend. My favorite part was no tire wear at all :nod:

Originally Posted by RB FIVE (Post 6218687)

where is hobby hut ? PA ?

I like the sound of no tire wear.

Originally Posted by InfiniteMotors (Post 6221928)

Tire wear was extra good this past weekend because the track just went through a pretty thorough service before the race. They also watered frequently this weekend. The track was very smooth.

Also I'm not sure we'll get to do the 2050/2060 test on the Reedy, his second one just broke. Silicone inside the crank delaminated or something to that effect? I haven't seen it yet.

Originally Posted by RB FIVE (Post 6222398)

I love hearing nightmares about the engine i just bought...:cry: