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Originally Posted by InfiniteMotors
(Post 6178881)
I can say that at 250 degrees on each motor, this Reedy definitely has more snap on the bottom end than my VZB
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So now that dudes dyno chart hits the net and this motor lacks some up top...
Innernetz is full of toolz.... This motor screams ! |
reedy .21
Hey i have a few questions about these engines, looking to buy one, however i have a JP-4 pipe and was wondering how these engines run with thiese pipes ?
Also whats the recommended glowplug for these engines, its usuall about 15-25 degrees celcious here, not that humid, i can get ahold of really only OS and RB plugs easily, and maybe novarossi. Any help would be appreciated, this is to go in a 808 buggy too |
Originally Posted by frontrunner
(Post 6180069)
Hey i have a few questions about these engines, looking to buy one, however i have a JP-4 pipe and was wondering how these engines run with thiese pipes ?
Also whats the recommended glowplug for these engines, its usuall about 15-25 degrees celcious here, not that humid, i can get ahold of really only OS and RB plugs easily, and maybe novarossi. Any help would be appreciated, this is to go in a 808 buggy too |
Originally Posted by FactoryRacing23
(Post 6180399)
Well I dont have the motor my self yet but people are running the OS P3 and P4 and the O'donnell T97
And what economy have people been achieving from them ? as when they first got seen there economy wasnt the best, as seen at last years worlds with maifield, however he seems to have better economy now ? |
Originally Posted by frontrunner
(Post 6181976)
Ok thats good, what about pipe ? will a jp-4 be good ? as its more a mid to top end pipe, so may increase the reedys mid to top while taming its bottom end a tiny bit ?
And what economy have people been achieving from them ? as when they first got seen there economy wasnt the best, as seen at last years worlds with maifield, however he seems to have better economy now ? i'm pretty heavy on the throttle and run it somewhat rich, with the 7mm restrictor and easily get 9 mins in my truggy |
My boy is getting 10 min with the 8mm insert in his MBX6. Power really came alive this weekend with a clutch change and an OS 2050.
Impressive, everyone comments on how it purrrrzzzzz!! |
We got to race with SPEEDSKI and Nick this weekend in Nashville, TN and had a great time racing and sharing info on the 121VR.
Nick's engine had a little more time than I had gotten on mine and it was settled with the OS 2050 pipe. I believe SPEEDSKI was helping him pit, hardly saw them touch a needle on it. Myself, I needed to get some more fuel through my REEDY, I think I was at 1/2 gallon on it when we got there. After several tanks of practice and qual's the engine really settled in. Also, I tested an 053 pipe which worked well for me. Once I tuned to the 053 pipe, approached the 1 gallon mark on fuel, the motor came to life. I ran a 15 min B-main with 1 pit at 7.5 mins no problem. Bumped to the A-main and again pitted at 7.5 min to 8 min easy. Motor never flammed!! |
I bought two 121's right when they came out. One about a week before the other one. I ran a gallon of Byrons 30/11 through the first engine and was never happy with its performance. The bottom end performance was killer, but noting up top. I mean, nothing. I ran P3s and P4s with no change in performance, and a 2035 pipe. I had dirt get past my air filter and roughed the crank up a bit. So I put about half a gallon of the same Byrons fuel through the second engine with the same pipe but only running a P4 now. Then went out ran 3 qualifiers and put her through 22min of a 30 main before my receiver pack died. I can honestly say the performance of this second engine is way better than the first. It has the same bottom end snap, but with alot more top end pull. I am only an hour leaner or so on the hsn and maybe 2 hours leaner on the lsn. I really am happy with how its performing. I have a +1 clutch bell I am going to try. If I can soften the bottom a little more and pick up a little bit more topend, I will be real happy.
With the 8mm insert, I can get 9min in a main with no flame out. I think I can push it to 10min once she has a gallon or so through her. The engine is in a D8. Andy |
Originally Posted by SinistiR
(Post 6182589)
I bought two 121's right when they came out. One about a week before the other one. I ran a gallon of Byrons 30/11 through the first engine and was never happy with its performance. The bottom end performance was killer, but noting up top. I mean, nothing. I ran P3s and P4s with no change in performance, and a 2035 pipe. I had dirt get past my air filter and roughed the crank up a bit. So I put about half a gallon of the same Byrons fuel through the second engine with the same pipe but only running a P4 now. Then went out ran 3 qualifiers and put her through 22min of a 30 main before my receiver pack died. I can honestly say the performance of this second engine is way better than the first. It has the same bottom end snap, but with alot more top end pull. I am only an hour leaner or so on the hsn and maybe 2 hours leaner on the lsn. I really am happy with how its performing. I have a +1 clutch bell I am going to try. If I can soften the bottom a little more and pick up a little bit more topend, I will be real happy.
With the 8mm insert, I can get 9min in a main with no flame out. I think I can push it to 10min once she has a gallon or so through her. The engine is in a D8. Andy |
1 Attachment(s)
Guys- I will say this for the 100th time, and I hope it sinks in, the motor wants to run hot and if you want performance that's just how it is. It may change for some climate controlled indoor races or once it gets cold outside, but right now I bet everyone on here would not be happy with the engine if they ran it under 250 degrees. I have 5 gallons on my engine now, same rod, p/s, bearings, everything stock, and it has the same compression it had after 2 gallons. My motor has never seen a race tune under 260, and it's usually 270-275 after the race.
It was 98 degrees and humid at 3:00 yesterday when we ran our main event, and it was a 45 min main, very punishing on motors, well guess what, I came off the track at 285 after the main, and never once flamed and it ran great. There were OS engines, Ninjas, and others that flamed with very good drivers running them and experienced pit guys. Mine was not the only one either, Reedy actually finished 1-2 so both motors ran excellent. |
Originally Posted by rfleck
(Post 6185170)
SinisteR, How hot was your good motor when tuned in properly? Mine seems to want to run around 270-280 in a truggy. Motor has about a half gallon on it so I pulled it rather than running it this weekend's race.
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I had Saxton tune mine for the JBRL yesterday, and after a run, it was 265. Man, these motors are nice. And all those that say no top end. I was staying with Speed 2's all weekend.
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How does the P3 and P4 plug compare then? Never really tuned with plugs so does one give more top end power than another or just a steadier idle??? Got to say, managed to get the engine going this weekend. Had a bit of trouble in qualifying getting it tuned (idle dropped off loads, and it's still new), but it was still running rich on the bottom by a lot. In the finals i managed to bump 3 times and would have for a 4th if it wasn't for a few over enthusiastic drivers. Engine is smooth but it does lack topend on the longer straights over here in the UK compared to Nova and RB engines. Was running a HN 2047 and it was extremely smooth and seems to be the pipe of choice over here but i would like to do a back to back test against the AE 2035.
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charles- the P4 will provide a better top end, and is a more durable plug against flame outs. P3 will give crsiper bottom end. For large tracks, P4 is definatly the way to go.
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Much appreciated Brandon :)
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I ran p4 at Milestone this weekend. I broke the motor in with a p3.
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OK guys, I was able to get my Reedy to it's first race this past weekend and had nothing but trouble.
Friday I had what apeared to be a lowend lean bog. I kept richening the LSN til it was almost 5 turns out before I could get it to have a somewhat crisp bottom. The HSN is set at 2.5 turns out at this point giving a decent topend. running 260-270* Sat. 1st qual it starts the same thing lean bog or just a bog on the bottem end (could barely clear a single obstical that had a short run up) Had Team driver Chad Parks take a look at it, he tweak on the needles for a bit and got it back to where I thought it was on Friday, go out 2nd qual same thing :confused: Engine got pulled after that. Carb is sealed top and bottom of gasket, front bearing dosen't seem to be leaking any more than any other engine I've ever owned. Am I just way off on my carb settings? Could there be a defect in my engine? I've sent an e-mail to AE, waiting on a reply. |
if is all lean it's prolly getting air from somewhere right ? :confused:
did you run it after sealing the carb ? |
Yeah, these problems are happening after the carb was sealed.
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Could someone tell the cheapest place to pick one of these up? Thinking of giving it a try. Cheapest so far is Tower @ 219.99.
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Originally Posted by slaytanic
(Post 6186585)
Could someone tell the cheapest place to pick one of these up? Thinking of giving it a try. Cheapest so far is Tower @ 219.99.
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Originally Posted by porter
(Post 6186564)
Yeah, these problems are happening after the carb was sealed.
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Originally Posted by Brandon Melton
(Post 6185369)
Guys- I will say this for the 100th time, and I hope it sinks in, the motor wants to run hot and if you want performance that's just how it is. It may change for some climate controlled indoor races or once it gets cold outside, but right now I bet everyone on here would not be happy with the engine if they ran it under 250 degrees. I have 5 gallons on my engine now, same rod, p/s, bearings, everything stock, and it has the same compression it had after 2 gallons. My motor has never seen a race tune under 260, and it's usually 270-275 after the race.
It was 98 degrees and humid at 3:00 yesterday when we ran our main event, and it was a 45 min main, very punishing on motors, well guess what, I came off the track at 285 after the main, and never once flamed and it ran great. There were OS engines, Ninjas, and others that flamed with very good drivers running them and experienced pit guys. Mine was not the only one either, Reedy actually finished 1-2 so both motors ran excellent. I know them LOL. (inside joke) they get it. |
Originally Posted by slaytanic
(Post 6186585)
Could someone tell the cheapest place to pick one of these up? Thinking of giving it a try. Cheapest so far is Tower @ 219.99.
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Originally Posted by RB FIVE
(Post 6186765)
maybe the reseal job is causing the leak, maybe try it over.
I saw on A-mains reviews that Kurt Wenger says to seal around the outside of the carb and not inbetween the case/gasket/carb. So I may have to try that and see where it gets me. I also have a small feeling it's just my lack of tuning experiance, causing me to have a hard time finding the proper starting point for this carb. As I'm reading a few other threads now with guys having all kinds of trouble with lean bogs or tuning issues. |
Originally Posted by megasaxon
(Post 6186608)
tower's price is 249.99
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Originally Posted by porter
(Post 6187648)
I was thinking that may be the case as well.
I saw on A-mains reviews that Kurt Wenger says to seal around the outside of the carb and not inbetween the case/gasket/carb. So I may have to try that and see where it gets me. I also have a small feeling it's just my lack of tuning experiance, causing me to have a hard time finding the proper starting point for this carb. As I'm reading a few other threads now with guys having all kinds of trouble with lean bogs or tuning issues. I think the only thing i am having problems with is the warmup. It is taking me seriously 4 minutes of warmup before i can put it on the track. If i go before that, it will flame out. its odd, but i can handle it. |
Porter - Are you absolutely certain you don't have an air leak in the fuel lines, fuel filter, or fuel tank?
Edmond - Mine runs very rich during warm up too, but it doesn't take 4 minutes to get warm enough to make power. Maybe your LSN is too rich. |
Originally Posted by slaytanic
(Post 6187819)
Tower has a $30 off 249 coupon on the front page of the site. So Towers price right now is 219.99.:nod:
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Originally Posted by porter
(Post 6187648)
I was thinking that may be the case as well.
I saw on A-mains reviews that Kurt Wenger says to seal around the outside of the carb and not inbetween the case/gasket/carb. So I may have to try that and see where it gets me. I also have a small feeling it's just my lack of tuning experiance, causing me to have a hard time finding the proper starting point for this carb. As I'm reading a few other threads now with guys having all kinds of trouble with lean bogs or tuning issues. I wish i have run my engine a bit more. I could prolly give better feedback. |
i have found that if your having problem put a p4 in it
set the top and bottom and 2 and 1/2 out and then your only a hour or two off! |
Originally Posted by SkarTisu
(Post 6188322)
Porter - Are you absolutely certain you don't have an air leak in the fuel lines, fuel filter, or fuel tank?
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Originally Posted by Bigedmond
(Post 6188168)
I had a problem going from a GRP to the Reedy as it tunes differently. My GRP's never ran more then 190, but the Reedy likes to run above 250. My pit man gave me a oh crap look when he first saw the temp. Then he gave me the confused looked when i said 265 was fine, and the motor was running great. I get tons of smoke too.
I think the only thing i am having problems with is the warmup. It is taking me seriously 4 minutes of warmup before i can put it on the track. If i go before that, it will flame out. its odd, but i can handle it. |
has the airleak problem been resolved i have heard that alot of people are having trouble with the sealing of the new style carby just curious as i really want one and at the price you cant go wrong.
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Originally Posted by lethalleigh29
(Post 6194573)
has the airleak problem been resolved i have heard that alot of people are having trouble with the sealing of the new style carby just curious as i really want one and at the price you cant go wrong.
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Looks like a better design then what we have now. Hope it takes off.
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I'm a fan of it. No more worries about the insulation material shattering when you remove the carb from the engine block! :nod:
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Originally Posted by SkarTisu
(Post 6196088)
Yup. Use a little Green Slime on both sides of the gasket between the carb and engine block, and use Loctite on the carb fixing screws.
Will have to try that out, and see where it gets me. I'm a huge fan of the design as well, just having some issues with my first go around. Hopefully I can get things worked out within the next few days. |
Haven't had a leak, so far so good. I use locktight in the screws but be easy dont strip your case.:eek::nod:
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