6.5 turns out from bottom

opps and ya the mccoy 8 will work fine ...it takes a long standard plug ....so like o.s. plugs will work but give you less compression ...stick with the mccoy , or the odonells ....nova rossi plugs will work also ......

Anyone know anything about the eshop that they were opening up have not seen anything.As they were releasing a new carb for the engines

not yet when someone finds it post it up

hey guys just a quick question. Today I wasrunning my grp non-tuned out with an ambient temp of about 75 to 80. So I got out and my engine was really rich when I started and assumed it was my engine breaking in a little because its got just around a gallon on it. Then It leaned it until it ran well with a good amount of smoke. I temped it and it was at 225 so I thought it wouldnt hurt to richen the lsn and the hsn just a small turn(about 1/6). I did his and it literally was rich to the point were it bogged and cut out. Are these engines that sensitive or is that not normal?

yes they are that sinsative ....also they need to be warmed up more than you normally would ...10-15 passes up and down the street ...and just the normal letting it idle for a few minutes on the box ...easy to miss tune because the motor isnt warmed up ...so you think its too rich ...then if you crank it and tune it right away its just a downward spiral from there ..warm it up good and small adjustments works best on these motors my .02

These engines new to be warm in order to perform. I let mine idle on the box 3-5 min before my qual or main and defiantly make sure to run it 3-5 min on the track before I even try to change the tune. I have a modded tuned .21 so I know mine is more sensitive but it is seriously sensitive. When these engines are cold they will sound so rich like they are going to die and they will. Keep it running and let it warm up, then tune it. Once they warm up they lean out, so if you have it tuned perfect but its cold or not up to running temp when you run your race it will lean out and heat up and bog in performance.

i fell for this mistake tuning your engine befor it is warmed up and the stupid thing was i already dam well new

guys i got a question about pipes and headers now the one that comes with grp i have no issue with at all but i hear compared to other pipes the engine performs a little better....
i have been looking at pipes has anyone used the losi pipes at all ? it would be nice to get just a little more bottom end out of the engine... it certainly does not lack at all during races

Frank L what have you had done o your grp you say it has been moded how does it compare to the tuned grp in performance ?

Powerhouseperfoemance.com I did the turbo mod to a fund and it's better all around better bottom better top and a wider mid range. It's smoother and idles forever. Tunnning is a little more touchy but when it's right I can pull away from everyne else on the straight. Jumpng is easieroverall it performs more like a .24 perfect for a truggy, insane in a buggy. Check put the powehouse engines thread and then vice mark at powerhouse a call he loves this stuff and he likes for you to call. I send all my engines to mark now. I have 2 .21's and he's doing a .28 for me now Dow large tracks.

I feel dumb for asking this but here goes. How do you remove the carb from the GRP engines? There I said it. LOL.

So I have between 1 to 1.5 gallons of fuel through my engine. I started setting a race tune in yesterday but she was running erratically. Half a lap would be absolutely perfect and the other half would be so rich the car wouldn't move at WOT. Yikes! So I decided to finally break the factory seal and seal the carb, high speed needle, and backplate. As well as grease the o-rings with some o-ring grease.

I can't remove the carb though. I removed the pinch bolt and the two aluminum carb retainers. That leaves nothing else, that I can see, to hold the carb in place. The carb will rotate just fine, but won't come out. What am I missing? Also is there a gasket or isolator between the carb body and the engine case? I was gonna try using a flat blade screw driver to help things along but this gasket/isolator was too soft and I didnt' want to tear it.

After sealing all the o-rings with grease and sealing the HSN and backplate the tune was much more consistent. Although every couple of laps there would be a big exhaust cloud and the engine would be down on power for a small section of the track. But this was every couple of laps or so.

The engine is running great so far, other than those issues. The temps I was getting were 210 after 7-8 of race pace driving--with no mistakes actually. And I'd just check the temps when I'd pull in to refuel.

So overall it just sounds like I have some of the "bad" o-rings and I need to get new ones coming but for this weekend the o-ring grease will have to do the trick.

its like a pinch bolt ...so if you have the bolt still in the case ...you would loosen it not all the way out ...and you would stick you hex driver in the bolt while its loosened and tap the butt end of the kex driver with like another hex driver it will loosen the pinch on the pinch bolt and allow it to loosen up and pull out

Yep. All three pieces of the pinch bolt assembly were out. there was nothing in there to hold the carb. I do like how GRP uses o-rings on the two aluminum pieces the pinch bolt pulls together. That's a nice touch.

Anything else besides the pinch bolt and retainers? Do I just need to get rough with it now? LOL.

OK Gentlemen, I have a question that not only applies to GRP engines, but to all of them.

What does it mean, when after a high speed pass you apply brakes, and the engine revs high for a couple of seconds and then idlle drops down drastically to the point that it will die?

I was reading an article by the late Ron Paris, and maybe I misunderstood, but there is states, that when coming off a high speed pass, you should listen to the engine and it should have a slight high rpm before settling and if not to continue to lean the LSN......

Any help much appreciated....