thanks to everyone for all their info on this thread. i got my tuned running like a rolex... still needs about 10 deg cooler i think, but i went 10minutes last night in the main with a little left over... smooth power, no lean bog, no rich low-end (got rid of that surge when i let off at the end of the straight) and it idles on the box long enough to smoke half a cigarette without loading up at all.

The temps defiantly drop 15-20 degrees after they are fully broken in that seems to be around a gallon. Every GRP I have run did the same thing and then shortly after they are broken in the front bearing starts leaking and you have to drop in another, But after that I have seen them go well into the 9-11 gal mark before the top end seems to suffer. Too bad they are done. GRP made a great little engine. I see A-main pulled them from their website, not even listed anymore. Time for a change.

frank have you had any trouble with the rear bearing at all on the grp i have on mine i replaced the bearings at the 3 gallon mark

I have heard nothing but good things about these engines too. I remember reading, or being told, that GRP was going to sell the engines direct to the customer to cut out the middle man so that they could make some more money per unit, in attempt to keep afloat. I guess that isn't gonna happen now. Boy did I ever pick the perfect time to buy one, eh?

My LHS has a promo kit still in stock that he wanted to sell me BAD before
I bought this one. His best deal was still twice what I paid for just the engine. I had to buy a pipe, yes, but I just put the 053 Dynamite on it for now. Should be fine.

i think you will find that the dyn 053 pipe will deliver better power than the grp pipe 2053 which is a nice pipe but i didnt like the way the engine performed with this pipe

What makes the dynamite pipe so different from the grp/mugen pipe different??? Aren't they both 2053 ??

My LHS was able to order a new piston/sleeve for my Tuned .21, he said they came off back order on monday/tuesday. Wahoo!!

they never set up the online shop, and the web site says nothing.......

i am not sure about the pipes i just know from experiance frome moving away from the grp pipe ... just because an engine comes with this pipe doesnt all ways mean that it is the best match not to say the grp pipe isnt any good it might be a good pipe on another engine

mine is in....

piston, sleave and rod....

i am going to send my motor to burton for pinching though before i use the new parts...

pinch a New P+S ?

Ok i have a question..does anyone know where to find or know the answer tot he question of what size set screw come on the GRP pipe that comes on the promo kit?? Also i know people say you get better performance with the dyn. pipe but does the run time stay close?? thanks!!

i run a different pipe and a 7 mm carb restrictor and im getting around 9-10 minuts still thats with the losi re10 pipe

Well, it went to its first race yesterday and I don't know if something if messed up or if this engine is supposed to run this crappy until it is fully
broken in but it wouldn't get out of the hole to save its life yesterday.
I am one TURN out from factory on the low side, and still at the factory settings on the high side and it still will NOT smoke down low. Temps in the
190's, NO bottom end. Tried leaning it from factory, no change. Seemed to get better with more fuel but I went for the smoke just to keep it alive for now. Gotta get it to my LHS/GRP guy for proper tune.

P.S. It has one gallon of fuel on it now.

my grp came alive after 2.5- 3 gallons had gone through it....
these motors like to run lean top end and fat on the bottom end ...
i had to play around with clutch set up and pipe befor i was completley happy with the motor but once its run in and its a different beast all together