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GIVE ME A FRIKKIN BREAK. SPAM-OFF!! (It's like the same as F#*& off)
Originally Posted by twelve2008
(Post 4424934)
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Hey Guys,
I have some more questions. When you open up the carb barrel all the way is the needle in the carb half way out? Why I'm asking is that my V-Spec never comes all the way out. My needle setting are HSN - 3 3/4 turns out LSN - 5 1/2 turns out Is this the factory needle settings for this motor? Also I just got done breaking my motor in on a break in stand and will hit the track Friday. Thanks for your help. Ed |
I would say thats normal for the GRP. OS carbs are different.
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Is there a head button available to put in that uses a standard glow plug?
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GRP
GRP... test run number two coming up! On my first run my carb got stuck somehow, but good old Drake gotter going for me again. Thanks Adam!
Anyways, I ran a P3 OS plug (per actual words from Mike Truhe mouth that it would work) and the motor seamed ok. But I want to know what carb insert you guys are running? I think I had an 8mm or stock one the first time out. It seemed ok but it was a bit hard to keep my tune. If I run this for the Nats, all I care about is run time and bottom end. High power motors just get me in hot water too fast! My modded RB C6BBT7 is just too much power, so I'm hoping to get the GRP smoothed out. |
I found the stock needle settings for the GRP .21
I called Horizon Hobby (since GRP doesn't include the settings in the manual or website) and they told me this: HSN out 4 turns LSN out 2 1/2 turns This is what they said the stock settings are. I adjusted my needles to this before starting it for the 1st time and it was spot on. motor was plenty rich and idled for an hour with plenty of smoke. |
Originally Posted by Cory B
(Post 4446007)
I found the stock needle settings for the GRP .21
I called Horizon Hobby (since GRP doesn't include the settings in the manual or website) and they told me this: HSN out 4 turns LSN out 2 1/2 turns This is what they said the stock settings are. I adjusted my needles to this before starting it for the 1st time and it was spot on. motor was plenty rich and idled for an hour with plenty of smoke. As I think you might have mean't 5 1/2 turns out for the LSN ??? As thats where most people seem to be when tuned !! Just checking ;) Rod |
Well 4 turns out from closed on the HSN is fine and that is the factory setting for that needle, but 2 1/2 turns on the LSN from closed is WAY too lean, the factory setting is 6 1/2 turns from closed which while that may be slobberingly rich its where you want to be starting from. Mine is happily tuned at 3 3/4 on the HSN and 5 1/2 on the LSN.
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That more like it... 5 1/2 LSN and 3 3/4 HSN. If you motor is ported, you will be running your needle slightly leaner... or about 2hrs leaner on each needle to get the same temp and tune.:sneaky:
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Well, I spoke with another person at Horizon Hobby today and he told me the same thing the other guy did
LSN out 2 1/2 turns HSN out 4 turns I put 2 1/2 tanks through it using these settings and it seemed to be spot on. Time will tell I guess. With 2 confirmed answers from HH, I will go with this. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Cory B
(Post 4448684)
Well, I spoke with another person at Horizon Hobby today and he told me the same thing the other guy did
LSN out 2 1/2 turns HSN out 4 turns I put 2 1/2 tanks through it using these settings and it seemed to be spot on. Time will tell I guess. With 2 confirmed answers from HH, I will go with this. 4 turns out on the HSN 4.5 Turns out on the LSN |
2nd weekend at the track with the grp21 and wow..it just gets better and better! over 10 minutes per tank, very smooth power and lots of it.....mine is stronger and pulls harder then my Ninja B01A, 21-5kt (modded), and has more then my Max Power M5 had. All the while coming off the track at 200 degrees...tops! Running 30%, GRP 4 plug (I was using OD97T and they worked well, but I tried a GRP #4, and my temps came down about 15-20 degrees and the tuning window is a little bigger), 1 additional thin copper shim (which will come out for the next race) and Dynamite 53 pipe. This is likely my favorite motor I have ran to date (and I really, really liked/like the M5). Great job GRP!
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I feel the same way about mine. The best engine I've run in my 15 years experience of racing. Temps are low (185), run time is high- 9 mins - and power is smooth and strong. People at the track are constantly asking me about this mill and many are saying it will be their next buy. Using the JP-3 pipe. Extremely happy. Much props to GRP!!
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I gotta quit reading this thread or I'm going to end up buying one of these .21's. :nod:
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Dam guys I gotta go buy one now too !!! I still havent even run my CL7B yet LOL....Its hard to keep up with all these nice mills !
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Did everyone notice the GRP crankshaft center-line sits slightly higher than other engines? A buddy of mine had a JP black engine on his 8. He then installed the GRP and the gear mesh became very tight. He's using quick change engine mount so he didn't move the engine mesh screws under the chassis. Same clutch bell and the like, the GRP just sits a little higher which makes the cb ride higher up on the spur gear.
Just wondering if anyone noticed this. It might make swapping engines more of a PIA when using different engines at different races, or qualifiers. |
No more talk in here?
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What fuel and % to use with 21?
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does anyone know if the turbo button of the GRP 21 will fit the Ninja 21? thanks.
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Originally Posted by CJ RC
(Post 4518772)
What fuel and % to use with 21?
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What will be the best pipe fore the .21 and .28.
I bought me both engines and also bought the 2053 pipe. Will this be the best one or are there different needs. I have a OS 2050 MP and a OS 2060. Also a RT 2011. And a Novarossi 2006. Thanks Hellsavage |
how long did it take for you guys to full break the motor in? I have about half a gallon through the motor and it still seems like it is breaking and does not have the full potential yet.
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Originally Posted by BRETTMASTERJ
(Post 4584934)
how long did it take for you guys to full break the motor in? I have about half a gallon through the motor and it still seems like it is breaking and does not have the full potential yet.
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Approx 5 litres :eek:
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With the shortage of 30% looming, I thought I'd break in my new GRP with 20% and continue to run Trinity 20% with a P3 plug. Anyone running 20% and a p3 in this motor? Hows it run?
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I've got over 4 gallon on mine, recently replaced the rod and put in ceramic bearings, hands down the best motor I've ever owned. I've owned dang near all of them at some point. I go 10 mins on it all the time.
I run a #5 GRP plug in it, temps right at or under 200, crazy power. I recently switched over to the MSR 1005 from the 2053 and I think I like it a bit more. Not quit as smooth but lots more power. I tried the p3 in my first GRP and didn't like it. You had to over tighen it to make it fit without leaking, just spend the other 2 bucks and get the GRP #5 and call it good. I have the same #5 in mine from break in. |
During the break in procedure, is there any need to remove or add shims to run Byrons 30% fuel?
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Nope, its comes shimmed for 30%
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By reading the entire thread I got to know that there are some users who are happy with the OS P3 plugs and GRP plugs.
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It's funny you should say that. We were at the local track this weekend and the #5 plug we had in the GRP died. So we go to purchase a new one and they are all out. Hmm! So the guy acturally went and matched the P3 up with the calipers and a ninja plug and they are very, very close. Put the P# in and wow what a HUGE difference it made. The cold plug was coming off with temps of like 220-230, after a 10 minute main, the motor came off at 187 and was humping dirt big time. So it's safe to say that the change was awesome!
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http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...h/sign0100.gif
Most definitly! After making the switch to the P3 plug, it was a lot easier for us to get the tune right and no where nearly as tempermental. That baby screamed down the back straight! Now if I could have kept my head cleared...goes back to the saying "It's not the car that makes the driver!" There's always next week! |
I've been breaking in my new GRP with a P3. I am having a hard time getting temps up to 200 and this is Arizona where it's frigging almost 200 degrees ambient temp anyway!:lol:
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RE
PUT SOMETHING AROUND THE HEAD
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RE
MINE CAME WITH A GRP # 6 ,, I RAN 3 TANKS WITH IT THEN PUT THE P 3 IN TO FINSH THE BREAKIN 14 TANKS AND THE HOTTER PLUG HAS A LOT BIGGER TUNNING WIDOW THAN THE COOLER PLUG HAD , I HAVE A HALF A GAL THUR MINE 202 ALL DAY, 93 DREG DAY GOOD MOTOR
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I'm thinking of getting a GRP .21 but I'm concerned about these "mystery flame outs". Sorry if you're sick of hearing the term, but I am not made of money and I don't want to stop using one engine because it doesn't tune properly(Go) and buy an engine that doesn't stay running(GRP).
I have a feeling it's extremely over-exaggerated, seeing as how 90% of the people I've seen claiming GRPs flame out have O.S. V-Specs, etc. in their signature. I have a JP-3 pipe and a buttload of P3 plugs that I'd love to use on my new engine. My thoughts are now with 1. GRP .21 2. O.S. V-Spec, I'll replace the bearing with a ceramic before it sees a drop of fuel. 3. Trinity Ex-Tech. (No particular order) With the GRP and O.S. I can still use my pipe and plugs, but the Trinity doesn't like Jammin' pipes or P3 plugs. To its advantage, I have yet to see anything but rave reviews for the Trinity. Thoughts are appreciated. I'll be ordering on Friday. |
u cant go wrong with a rossi based motor.. OS is always ben good to me also, but rossi motor seem to be insane power at lower temps.
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I've been racing R/C for 16 years but am a Nitro Newbie. I've got a gallon and a half on my GRP with virtually no problems. Put in a P3 plug and it has been great. Starts great no flame outs. I've flamed out a couple times by not keeping it cleared out enough, but I've yet to flame out on the track(and being new to nitro and off-road, I crash alot)(Knock wood)
As a side note, the only thing I've noticed with my current tune. When the motor is cold(not up to full temp) It runs fine at low speed but won't come up to "full song" on the straight, Once the motor is up to tempature(been coming off 200-210 in 90degree heat + Iowa Humidity) it is fine. Motor has a small but visible smoke stream at all times. To me, it would seem that the HSN is a little on the rich side, but I don't really want to see my motor temps go any higher. anyone have any thoughts on this. |
Originally Posted by Semple
(Post 4639167)
I'm thinking of getting a GRP .21 but I'm concerned about these "mystery flame outs". Sorry if you're sick of hearing the term, but I am not made of money and I don't want to stop using one engine because it doesn't tune properly(Go) and buy an engine that doesn't stay running(GRP).
I have a feeling it's extremely over-exaggerated, seeing as how 90% of the people I've seen claiming GRPs flame out have O.S. V-Specs, etc. in their signature. I have a JP-3 pipe and a buttload of P3 plugs that I'd love to use on my new engine. My thoughts are now with 1. GRP .21 2. O.S. V-Spec, I'll replace the bearing with a ceramic before it sees a drop of fuel. 3. Trinity Ex-Tech. (No particular order) With the GRP and O.S. I can still use my pipe and plugs, but the Trinity doesn't like Jammin' pipes or P3 plugs. To its advantage, I have yet to see anything but rave reviews for the Trinity. Thoughts are appreciated. I'll be ordering on Friday. http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&highlight=GRP |
Are you pleased with your GRP?
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danny, i would add alittle more fuel on the bottom and lean the top out a touch.
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