many thanks, will try that out. One question, the 1mm idle gap, is that is with the resrictor in or out

easier with it out

with earlier talks about pipes and headers yesterday i ran the losi re 10 pipe with the grp and dam it was a completly different engine had bucket loads of bottem end to the point it had no problems pulling wheelies coming onto the straight dam i was shocked :):) these losi pipes re 10 re 11 are good and good price to if you wondering what pipe to try give the re 10 a shot you wiont be disapointed :nod:

wonder why the drake didnt get this word around. i got an re11, ran it with everything xept grp...how were run times...that can be the deciding factor.

LOSR2044 vs. LOSR2066

These two numbers are for the piston/sleeve sets for the GRP engines but which one is the Tuned and which is the Non-Tuned? I can't tell the difference except for the $8 difference in price. So I assume the more expensive one is the tuned version. Anyone care to comment?

44 is tuned 66 is non tuned

i get aornd 9 min run time but i used the 7 mm carb insert so not alot differanve in run time

I have been wanting a tuned GRP .21 for my RC8 for a year or so now and I finally bit the bullet yesterday. Can't wait to get it mounted in the car and
start breaking it in. My question is this, I have a hard time biting off $140
for the GRP tuned pipe and was told the 053 Ofna/Dynamite pipe will work.
Any truth to this? I'll be running this engine on Nitrotane and would like to
get the rest of the summer out of it, at least, so hopefully it is good for 2-3
gallons or so. :p

mate as far as i am concerened i have the grp pipe and i think its ordanary not alot of bottom end people are using the dyn 53 pipe with good results also i have seen people with the associated tune pipe good to but these motors seem to lack bottom end power and getting a pipe with explosive bottom end is the key and clutch set up :):)

if you havent run it in yet it will be a slow process be patiant :) my motor came alive after 2+ gallons had gone through it .... pulling wheelies coming onto the straight bloody awsome this weekend just gone :nod:

after your 2/3 gallons replace your crank bearing i dont think they are very good quality i have seen a few rear bearing let go :nod:

+1 I waited till I had about 1.5 gallons and ended up changing bearings at the track during saturday morning practice, got 2 tko ceramics and its all good now! Take it easy on break-in these motors take a little time to brea-in, but it will be worth it when its ready its ready to rn with anything also don't make any major adjustments to the hsn use mainly the lsn. I got 4 tuned grps and love all of themn they are not explosive just smooth usable power
Hope this helps
Jason

the grp pipe will produce the most run time period ..if your not worried about run time use the 053 it is the exact same shape and make up baring r&d on the inside and its also a 2 chamber pipe so you will get more power ...i have a nontuned that i am breaking in this week and i have the 053 straped to it

+1 replace the bearings at the 1 gallon mark you will not be dissapointed if you dont your bearings will develop a scrtching sound that will get worse until they let go then you are out a motor ...get tko's and let it rip

so yesterday I decided to check my needle settings (just curious) HSN .035 IDLE .025 and here is what has me scratching my head LSN .035 but it's not in, it's out, if it makes sense, could that be right? Well the engine is running perfect consistent temp, no flameouts, smooth power, so I'm just curious cause I remember reading something about the settings by Drake.......

the settings by drake on that link were right up until the lsn settings were stated ...it was a mis print .....i posted a page back ny needle settings ...you are about where i am at 5 gallons ...so yes you are ok on the lsn settings ...i mean the motor comes 6.5 turns out from bottom on the lsn ...i thought the needle was gonna fall out ....but thats the way these motors work :nod: