without seeing it, raise the idle, lean the bottom...

i have 2 of these, all of them idle at the setting adam has....

the rest should be some what close, depending on temp and alt...
ilean mine till they png, then richen it up a bit....like 1-3 hrs...

Thanks. I will give it a try. Mileage is great right now!

Thanks to all for the suggestions. My bud at my LHS is a Losi sponsered driver who has been running the GRP's sense they came out. He recommended the Dyanmite 053 or the AE pipe for it. Probably do the 053 seeing as how I have seen some durability issues with the AE pipes.

I break my engines in fairly easy and like to run no more than 2 gallons on a
set of bearings because of the fuel that I run. I love the way Nitrotane tunes and keeps my temps down but the lack of oil in it makes me keep a close eye
on my bearings. As for it taking 2 gallons to break in, that only means that as much as I get to drive it, it probably won't even be broken in by the end of summer! LOL!

As for power delivery, I LOVE the velvety smooth power of both of my BL electric vehicles so this has been the reasoning behind my want for this engine. I have yet to actually drive one but after seeing them run and seeing a local Losi driver go 12 minutes on 3/4 of a tank to only come off the track with the engine at 170 degrees, I was sold. It has simply just been a money thing up until now. ;)

Tony is it flaming when you are at idle and does it rev high and then drop down? i ask because i had the same issue after my tune went out of wack ( 2 pin holes in the carb boot) But after i fixed that i noticed my lsn needle was very rich i had to lean out the bottom and back off the idle screw to almost flush and then went back in about a turn and my lsn needle is about 1 to 1.5 mm out from flush at the 2 o clock position and she will idle all day long and no flame outs hope that helps a bit

After I thought about it I had a big duh moment. If you have a smaller restrictor it lets in less air, just like not having the throttle open all the way.:p Got me thinking, why even have the restrictors when you could just limit throttle travel?

Don't take this as gospel, but I do believe that limiting the throttle throw is NOT the same as a smaller restricter... zixxer? anyone?

Motor's load up when your not on the throttle...Unless you specifically tune it to accept the limited throttle throw you will probably stall it out trying to be smooth with it. :nod:

Guys,
I need advice: is that necessary/advisable to change also the bearing when you change a pushrod, piston and sleeve? the bearing is still smooth.

thank you

Could someone please post their needle settings and which carb restrictor they are using on their GRP .28. Mine is giving me fits and I can not get a tune to same my life.

have you checked that you do not have any air leaks and that the exahaust gaskets and fuel tube is okey ?
also you need to make sure that you r fuel tank seals and that there isnt any fine cracks i have seen them start to have trouble when you get down to a certain level and then the tune goes bad :nod:

yeah it will flame when idling, but it only revs a little when coming off full throttle

to rich on bottom ..it should rev up a little bit longer coming in off running on the track ..its just something you have to be able to hear ....

run 6-8 laps get good and warmed up ...bring it in pull the body ...rev it up a couple of times to clear it out ...pinch the fuel line going to the hsn really hard cut all the fuel off .....it will do one of three things probably ...instantly stall without reving up = to lean on lsn
rev way up before it dies = to rich on bottom
rev just slightly up before it dies = just about right and in the ball park
once you do it a few times you can get the feel for it without killing the motor ...then adjust re-rev and try again

for the idle question ...you should not have to play much with your idle setting using a different restrictor ...as stated above ...but you will have to re-tune your motor ...i wouldnt suggest limiting the throttle to compinsate for some thing ....i limit my throttle on all engines to about 1 mm before it clears the carb ....that way im not pulling farther than i need to ...hope that made sense ...alan burton had told me that drake will run his throttle to about 1 mm past full open when running a restrictor ...he could tell me why ...only that he does it so alan does it ......anybody see the benifit in that :weird::deathstar

i need this too. does anyone have the stock settings for the 28 in turns? (not the .xxx inches from flush stuff if you can)

Well, I have 7 tanks on my tuned 21 now. I did 4 idling 1 at 160, 1 at 170, 1 at 180 and 1 at 190. Pre-heated to 150 before I fired it up for the next tank and the first two that I ran tonight also. I let it cool down to 100 between tanks. Tonight I threw it down and started driving it. I would do a 2 second count to 1/3rd throttle for the first tank, 2 second count to 2/3 throttle on the second tank and a 2 second count to near full throttle on the third tank. I am currently out 2 hours from factory settings on the lsn and it seems to run just fine. Never saw over 205 while I was running it and it is still very tight so I figure the temps will fall down more once it fully breaks in. For now, I am just keeping it smoking good and to hell with the temps. Even with the carb this fat it still has plenty of power so we'll see how it runs this coming weekend at its first race. :D

my grp .21 pro came alive after 4 lt had gone through it ... it was a completly different engine after that :nod: much happier with it