Good results! Just make sure when leaning it out you keep checking the head button and glow plug. They'll let you know if your too lean. :nod:

RB Speedline Matrix 12 for the cooling fins to break off
 

Hello
Is it common for the RB Speedline Matrix 12 for the cooling fins to break off?
The first one broke off around two race meetings ago it broke off the forth cooling fin from the bottom.
Tonight while I was doing my maintenance on my car I noticed that it had broken another cooling fin up fifth one from the bottom.
I have had no major accidents on the track. I’m very particular on doing my maintenance on all my cars after every race meeting.
In my collection I have a RB C6BB & RB C6BT and I have never had a problem with these engines. I do relies that they are different in size and build.
But I would not think that the RB Speedline Matrix 12 would have a problem.
If anybody could help on this that would be great. Or should I be doing something special to this motor?
I’m about to buy another RB 12 but just would like to know why this is happening.
At our club there is a few guy’s that have had the same problem with the Matrix 12 cooling fins.

Thank you very much for your help & knowledge

Favo,
We have not had any issues with the Matrix cooling head here in the States. There have been some instances with its bigger brother(Xenon) having fins break. Although we have discontinued distributing that particular engine you can readily find parts. I see you have Australia in your avatar, I would contact your countries national distributor for some help.
If you are looking for a new .12 mill I would not hesitate and purchase a R3. That is our flagship .12 and will not dissapoint. Reliable, great power, and excellent fuel milaege.

Jamie Corrado
RB Products USA

Yep I have to agree with Jamie on this one. The R3 is a real winner.

So I have a question about the S3 .12 What's the deal with mounting a pipe? No place to use/hook short springs to and when using a long spring there is no room behind the carb for it unless it sets up real high right under the cooling head. doesn't really mount too sturdy. I am using an RB pipe as well. Great motor great company poor design? tabs on case would have solved this!

I got the Maxtrix RW kit with the 2604 pipe but I'm not sure which manifold came with it. Maybe you RB guys can answer that for me because I saw a short RB manifold online and I'm curious if that's the one I got or not.

Wilson,
I think you are refering to our R3.
Make sure you are using a .12 specific manifold spring.
We have absolutely no problem mounting the correct spring under the carb.

ToyRUsKid,
Yes, the 2604 in-line exhaust comes with a short manifold.
In almost all cases we use that manifold.

Well guys I hope you can help ! I am at my wits end with this C6BB7T . I bought the motor from A-Main with the matching pipe .

Nothing wrong with the motor at all but I just can't get this thing tuned in .Driving me crazy .

I am running Sidewinder 20 % for fuel ....fresh ....RB#6 plug

Followed the nessacary break in procedure.

Settings were 3.5 on hsn and 5.5 on lsn...........this was very rich during break in so it was difficult to run the motor at 4 turns on hsn for break in but but now after the recommended procedure I am between 31/2 to 3 1/4 turns on the HSN which is a great smoke trail at like 85 to 95 % power . A little fat maybe but safe and very fast .

Here is where I think the issue comes in but I have heard so many opinions at this point and read so much stuff on the internet my head is spinning right now ...LOL !

I set the idle gap at .8 mm as per the RB website which I know is appox. but close ..............at 5.5 turns off the bottom on the low speed needle the car holds a steady idle for about 20 to 25 seconds before it drops down as the crankcase loads up . This is at about a 215F temp on my raytek gun which I know doesn't mean a whole lot but still a reference point somewhat . So this is all while driving this car around the pits before my 5 minute qualifier .

So I fire up my car about 3 minutes before I hit the track ........throw it down and go about 3 or 4 laps before for they call us in to refuel before the sound of the tone . Car is running good !!!!!!!..........temp is like 240 though .........and I hate to talk temps because I know you shouldn't totally go by that because temp gun vary so much .

So about 2 or three laps into a run " maybe 2 minutes run time " the car stalls ???????

Here is where all the opinions come in . Lot of guys say its too lean .............so it bulids heat as it goes and eventually stalls . WHEN IT DOES STALL IT IS WHEN OR ABOUT FULL THROTTLE IS APPLIED OR JUST AS I LET OFF ...TOUGH TO TELL BECAUSE THE BUGGY IS CARRYING MOMENTUM AS I BLIP THE THROTTLE AND THEN THERE IS NOTHING ".

I run out to the track and grab the car and it is wicked hard to start if that tells you anything ??????

So once in a panic I lean the bottom end out thinking it was too fat and all the residual fuel in the crank case was coming up through the motor when full throttle was applied and that included with HSN setting just flooded the motor ...but if that were true it would happen sooner ...like before I even put it on the track right ????well when I did this the motor stayed running but the performance was terrible .............staying at high idle after the front straight ,reving up over jumps ........it even has that weird lean machine gun studder at idle . Obviously too lean .

Tried a pinch test................ when I get the low speed to like 3 to 4 seconds before the revs come up like alot of guys recommend the car almost alway stalls because it is so rich and I am forced to lean the hsn out to get the car to run down a straight away to get it to fully cleaned out .

I am no expert at this but I do have alot of motor experience ............I'm just totally lost here .

Thanks in advance for any help .

I don't suppose you live in Virginia? It's tough for me to tune by description. I need to see and hear it to get it right.

I can tell you that sometimes the balance between the low speed needle and the idle screw can get way out of whack and it can be tough to get it right.

Another thing to try would be to see if someone can let you try a tank of their fuel. I know you said it was fresh but I have had so many people ask me to help tune their cars for them only to find an hour later that switching out their "fresh fuel" was all that was needed.

I assume you tried a new plug?

Hopefully Jamie has some more ideas. Don't give up on it. It is one awesome motor.

Reading back through there is one more thing you could try. It sounds like it might be too lean on the low speed and too rich on top. Set the bottom so rich that it really loads up after just a few seconds of idle, just lean enough to stay running on the track. Drive the car and get the high speed dialed in on the straights and get it up to good temps. Then while it is still hot you can try to get the low speed tuned in better.

I'd say bring it back to the factory settings and work your way from there. Try to tune it a bit with the wheels elevated and not on the track because (at least for me) it's hard to see how much smoke is there when it gets too far away. I usually try to tune the low-end and idle first, then work on the top, others might disagree. I also use a few different observation methods to check the tune.

I'll check to see if it has smoke all the way up to the high rpm points, if not, too lean on top.

check to see how long it takes to drop rpms after it's a full throttle for few seconds. Should stay up for about 20-30 seconds before it starts to bog.

I also check the idle by again having it elevated and seeing if my rpms are steady after opening and closing the throttle. I'll hit the brakes, and back to neutral. If it starts to spin the wheels again, I back the idle out a bit.

I agree it's hard to help without being there, but the C6 was my first successful tune as I just started this last year. Mine always started out rich on the track but by lap 3 it was at perfect tune almost and as the mains got longer, it held it's tune all the way.

Hope this helped.

I have tried other gallons of the same fuel so I feel pretty good about that .

Car does run good at the factory settings 3.5 HSN and 5 on the LSN but the low speed is too lean once up to running temp . Then once I richen the LSN enough to stop the revs from coming up at a idle "10 20 seconds before drop " It takes 65 70 ft to clear out on a 100ft straight away at my local track .

Although everything we have been told in nitro engine tuning has led us to believe we really should set the HSN first do I need to start with the Low speed !

Anybody have any thoughts on what makes it stall after a few laps ????? Thanks again .

Back the idle down instead of richening the bottom.

so after running a few laps and then the car flaming out really has nothing to do with the bottom end ....................unless the LSN being too rich disquised the lean HSN .........????that would be why the performance goes away the more laps I run . Maybe set the bottom end like I always have so the engine runs for 10 to 20 seconds at a smooth idle before the it drops down like I have been . Just start out a a slightly richer HSN setting so when after a good few laps of running and the car is fully heat soaked it won't stall ??? Cars get leaner as they go right ?

Maybe you need a new fuel tank. Sometimes a bad tank can cause tuning problems. If you try another engine and it is ok then it's probably not the tank.

Paul