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use the mugen ins box it is offset
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Originally Posted by michael 1
(Post 4465768)
use the mugen ins box it is offset
As Mike Shing said, use the mugen INS box: Part # B0010. This fits perfectly in any .12 motor and it isn't as large as the 1/8th on-road INS boxes. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...n161/b0010.jpg |
Originally Posted by teamgp
(Post 4311548)
These motors don't run that hot at all. After leaning it out for another 10 tanks, the temp was around 260F-265F. It just finally broke in yesterday, after a little more than a full gallon of fuel, and the temp went down to 220F, still slightly rich, but running pretty strong. :nod: Track was really tight so very low gearings have to be used. To get a decent power out of engine, i had to run it at ~110C (230F) during the qualification rounds and with the same settings, after 30min final temp was 130C (265F). In total, not more than 2 liters (1/2 gallon) of fuel have been used with this engine. Could it really take so long to break in these engines? And can it be expected to see lower temp ranges after few more liters of fuel will go trough the engine? |
I know this thread is primarily about onroad RBs, but I broke in my RB S7 for my 8th buggy today and I feel so happy to have purchased this engine. RB has always been great in quality, performance, and tuning. Despite the slightly higher price for parts you get what you pay for. I payed for quality and have no regrets. :smile::nod:
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Thanks Jamie for all the support this past weekend at the 2008 Capital Classic!!!
Once I fixed the problem I created on the R3 (stripped head button), the motor worked flawlessly. Several of the top drivers from the different manufacturers commented very favorably on the power that my car had. :nod: To top it off, the motor didn't run higher than 270F on Saturday and Sunday where the air temps were around 95F and most motors were operating at 300F+. It made at least 5:10 runtime all weekend with 25% nitro content Maxy's Fuel and 0.5mm head shimming, including the fourth qualifier where I ran 55mm/57mm tires. The new head button had a nice brown burn color to it at the end of Sunday with absolutely no pitting. ;) For those that don't know about the R3, I have to quote the Washington Post... If you don't get, you don't get it. :tire: |
all i got to say is thanks J for the hook up....
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hey i have a question for you guys. which motor would be the best for my tmaxx 1.5
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Originally Posted by empir3
(Post 4531442)
hey i have a question for you guys. which motor would be the best for my tmaxx 1.5
I would suggest our TM523 combo package. It is a direct drop in and also includes the manifold, pipe and engine mount. Part # E01901_523000_T |
Listen to Jamie. That TM523 is one of the best deals in RC. Not only do you get a bad ass Nova based motor but you get the exhaust and engine mounts with it. You can't beat it. A buddy of mine has one in his T-Maxx and it hauls, it's reliable and easy to tune.
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Originally Posted by wingracer
(Post 4532282)
Not only do you get a bad ass Nova based motor but you get the exhaust and engine mounts with it.
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ok ill look into it. my local hobby guy suggest the traxxas 3.3 to replace the 1.5 but im not to sure i want to go back to another stock engine. i kinda wanted something aftermarket.
thanks for the help. -erik |
Hey i have but one more question. When im going to be needing a new motor i will be in Kodiak, Alaska. I think it would be a bit more spendy to go through the hobby shop there. What online sight would you prefer most if you wanted that rb concept tm523 to buy? or basically what online store do you like the best.
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Originally Posted by Roelof
(Post 4532397)
Ahum, it is Sirio based......
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You are right Roleof, both are Sirio based. Still killer motors. Now I am confused though since the one in my buddies truck is Nova based and it is a TM something 23.
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The TM728 and TM928 are nova based.
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