had the chance to see the new-ish GXII run and it looked very nice indeed.. not sure if it was fully run in at peak..

considering of choosing a brand and sticking with them... since its just mind boggling other wise.. choosing a different brand.. every so often..

cant beat the price on a budget.. too soo :nod: :)

how would you compare this engine to a Nova or OS speed... ?? at peak..

Done Grizz ;)


Bahahaha....... Happy New Year Snooks :)

Not yet mate. Mail across the ditch is still pretty slow post Xmas.
Will let you know when it lands :)

The GXII-5RHO is a very competitive motor (especially the newer 3 needle carb version). Powerful but drivavble, and very, very reliable. Parts are very well priced in comparison with the other brands mentioned.
Never had the need to run a speed or Nova, so can't give a personal comparison there for you sorry.

Cheers Flanno. Happy New Year bro. Hope 2012 is a goodie for you off and on the track :)

My Go GXII holds it own pretty well to my nova btt, the Go is very strong in the low to mid rage, my nova proberly has a bit more in the top end but not a huge difference, proberly the most noticable thing in difference is the smoothness of the Nova.
The Go took a bit longer to loosen up to the Nova but when it did Ive really warmed to how it runs, good little motor especially for the price.

Wade

Cheeers Shane :D

on AND OFF the track :lol: fingers crossed ;)

GXII-5RHO updates
 

I have a GXII-5RHO and am very happy with the output but am still sruggling with Econemy average 7 min.
I am wondering as i have been running the OS P4 or P5 plug and i have been advised to try the ODonell plug, What is the difference??

I also still have a Gx7R can i put the GXII 5RHO piston and sleeve in?
Just for a practice engine?

Thanks.

would anyone know if Go is or has released On road 21 and 12 size engines ?

The GO Engine website.
http://www.go-engine.com/
Of course, it may not be up to date at times.

If anyone has the "inside scoop" I'd think Shane (Grizz) would know. :)

There's been some talk about a .12 onroad "pro" level engine for a couple of years. nothing about a .21 onroad though. They were talking about doing a big-block .25 or .26 offroad engine, but I think I talked him out of it.

Simon has spent a fortune on the prospeed optima car, so I believe that he's going to need to make some money off of that before spending more.

i'm wanting to set my idle correctly. how do you measure .7mm or 1mm. is there an easy way...cheers

Engine leaking fuel
 

Hi guys,

Ive got a GXII and its done about 7L. At around 3-4L I noticed a lot of fuel/oil around the back of the flywheel all around the crankcase so I changed the front bearing and it solved the problem up until a few days ago at around 7L where the same thing started happening.

I changed the front bearing again but this time it didnt work, from the very next tank fuel/oil was again all around the back of the flywheel.

Any ideas??

Im thinking about changing all the o-ring i.e. the one on the carby itself and inside the case.

I also damaged the o-ring that the screw goes into that holds the carby collets together (the orange ones) by accidentally pushing it too far, but I cant find the part number in the parts list.

Could it be anything else?

Do I need to change the rear bearing? When changing the front bearing, the rear didnt feel 100%, there was a very slight grinding/scratching feel but not too bad.

Thanks.

Take the venturi out and use a drill bit or something similar, or better still, set the gap using the "cold pinch" method. It's described in detail on the Tech Tips page (tuning guide section) of our website at http://www.go-racing.co.nz.
This is more accurate, as the correct gap for any given engine in particular could be between .5mm to 1mm
Get the idle gap right to start with and the rest of your tuning will fall into place.

I rummaged through the useless tiny drill bits that came with my dremel tool and found one that was just 0.8mm diameter.. I used that drill to drill into a bit of wooden dowel then glued it into the bit of wood leaving just the plain shank sticking out.. instant GO carb setting tool.

If the main is scratchy change it. The fronts will sometimes just weep, particularly if you are running rich, or put lots of after run oil in your motor.

The pinch bolt O Ring is part number OR-0032 - I doubt you would be leaking fuel around the O Ring though as it is actually quite removed from the internal workings of the carb.

Actually, come to think of it I did put after run oil the day before, maybe a few too many drops :)

The clutch shoes/springs and fuel line were all replaced/new.

But the motor wasnt holding tune hence changing the bearing, I put the needles back to flush and tried to lean out a bit but it just didnt feel right.

In the second 7min heat today the engine felt fine then it seemed to lose power noticing a lot more fuel around the flywheel, in the first heat the motor felt OK but with less fuel.