Actually, lets HOPE NOT.

It's the tight tolerances when new that make them last so long and not wear out the conrod bushing and crank pin so early as in the past.

arh flanno always the wise one
when do u leave for tas mate ?

No more long billed red factory hats for my team drivers and customers in NZ.

12th Feb. 10 or 11am I think......mailing all my race gear down tomorow.

nice hats grizz

do we know yet why they did away with the clear coating??
was it done just to keep costs down? or is it just not needed anymore?

Still waiting on word direct from the horses mouth as to whether there is or is not a coating on the crank. Seems to be conflicting stories.
The only reason for not having the coating would be if they have gone to a higer grade material for the crank, that doesn't require the coating for protection or wear.

pure speculation at this point. Taiwan is on vacation for the time being, and then we have the Nuremburg Toy show. Production will probably ensue shortly thereafter.

The blurb from GO on Buggy Sport Info stated a clear coated crank, and that's what I had been told, so if I was a betting man I would go 60 / 40 for the crank being coated. But I have never won much gambling, so maybe that's not a good indication
As Trey has stated, all will be revealed in good time. If it's coated - good. If it's not, then the manufacturers have obviously decided it wasn't neccessary (as opposed to just cutting costs). I can''t see them introducing a new motor with similar wear problems to the GX. That would just be suicidal in the current super competitive motor market, so it's all a bit of a storm in a tea cup really.

...yeah i always have bad luck when gambling aswell.....i think, that because it is a clear coating that maybe mark got it confused...but im not pointing fingers at anybody...either way like you stated shane....if its coated, great....if not, even better, cause that means the crank material has been mastered and does not need to be coated....either way, its not gonna stop me from running the GXII this year....now i have to get another RC vehicle so my GX5R is not lonely when i get my GXII

Speaking to Mark last night, (about this and other things) he indicated it's bear metal...also said, for something to think about; what clear coating is there available that will provide strength or lubrication properties, that won't cost the earth to use for the GO factory ? bottom line none.
or something along those lines, I can't remember his exact words.

We'll wait to hear it from the horses mouth tho.

Well thatīs pretty close to the horses mouth, (close enough for me if he was confirming it with you Flanno). Lucky I didn't put any money on it eh
In that case I suspect the crank is made of a superior material than previous models. Something which was mentioned to me some time ago by Simon at GO during the development of the GXII, when I was enquiring about wear on the GX cranks.
It will make it easier for those who want to play with things I guess, or just easier to keep the crank nicely polished during routine maintenance

anyone experiencing wear on the end of the GX-MG cranks were the clutch bearings go u should be putting a small drop of lube on the end of the crank every time before u put the clutch bearings on & shim your clutch bell to centre the spur gear with the teeth of the bell. a good mate told me this after i had a 1.2mm groove on my gen 5 crank, never had a problem since. thanks massive

+1

Eureka Lube is the best. Set of bearings last me ALL day .

I put the first bearing on, then a drop of Eureka Lube, then the bell and front bearing, always use blue thread lock on the retaining screw too.

It's the running of a failed bearing that does the initial damage, then once it starts wearing it causes more bearing failures that do more damage and so on and so on.

Tko radial thrust clutch bearings last 2 gallons.

Rex