so what needles do you think i need to change to improve this?? lean the lsn a little at a time ????

Sorry just been having a right mare recently with things going wrong with my buggy,

Just upgraded to a Spektrum Dx3
Metal geared servo broke and needed replacing
Upgrade my clutch and clutch bell

Oh and lost a wheel nut last night !!! so dont have a matchin set now lol

What shims should I be using for 25% nitro 2 x silver and 1 x copper????

1 x alloy (silver) & 2 copper for now

for now???

You want to make sure the motor is fully bedded in and most of the pinch is gone before dropping any shims.
Stick with the stock set up of 1 x alloy and 2 x thin copper until you have say 7 - 8 litres (1.5 + gal) through. Then if you feel the need, drop one thin copper shim out and see what you think for your track and set up.

That sudden richness could be a plug on the way out. I have personally never experianced a huge change in performance or tune when my motors properly bed in, but that may have something to do with the run in procedure I use. They just get faster and smoother as I put more tanks through them. The tune doesn't seem to change - not dramatically enough to be readily noticed anyway.

better wording than mine grizz, so i didn't post it
+1

I know a little bit about motors, and what I like to run for head space. My question to you guys is, WHY do you insist on running such HIGH head clearance? Any technical backing to why you guys suggest clearance in the .025 and up range? (not looking to start a pissing match of any kind, just curious is all). In our boats we run head clearance down to .004 with 60% nitro. .017 TOTAL bubble volume WITH the squish included. I know what I like to run my car engines at on the lower nitro, with the bigger stock button volumes, but why do YOU guys suggest such high clearance?

1+ From reading back I think I am at the stage where its getting fully bedded in, I leaned the lsn needle a little and seemed to be better.
I must admit the performance of the engine improved greatly.
I am loving it

Thanks again I will wait until I am past that mark of fuel before I feel the need to take a shim out.

I don't believe anyone suggests .025mm and up. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...roducts_id=192

I think he means 0.025 inches which is about .6mm..the GO engines are running about .8mm head clearance with the alloy and 2 copper shims plus the .3 from the head button.0.004" is 0.1mm..You can run these with that little head clearance but the tuning window gets progressively smaller as you reduce shims stack.with 0.1mm it'll eat plugs and the idle will be near impossible to keep rock steady.Besides even with no shims you still have the .3mm built into the head button.

got the bearing swap done. not as smooth as guy in video, without the bearing puller had to knock the main out with a little more force. But all good now. Just realized I have no extra head shims and the two of three were not in good reusable shape. full rebuild will have to wait until i get my hands on some. don't get why LHS does not stock much for .21 engines despite the 1/8th dirt track is less than 5 miles away.

Yes, .025 inches, sorry I wasnt clear. Im running mine without a shim, and puts me right at .012. This to me is very close to optimal. I would prefer it at .011, but without a lathe, i cant get that. Its not hard on plugs, and the tuning window being small, well, i guess im just used to that from my boats. The .004 head space with .17cc total volume button is hard on plugs....

Hey guys..help me out. just bought a go 5 port 28 non turbo plug, for my neighbors truggy... it keeps fouling plugs and dont know why. I tryed different brands still the same thing. The motor has less than a gal run in and have gone through 4 plugs... never had that issue with my go 21 7ports...any input would be great....

did you buy it used?....what kind of fuel and what percentage?...and what kind of plugs?...medium,hot or cold? ...we need to know these things to be able to give some opinions