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Originally Posted by mtbkym01
(Post 8032970)
Got my 2 66X's on their way from Mark, very excited to get these bad boy's broken in :sneaky:
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Originally Posted by MAGPIE-121
(Post 8032905)
leave the front & rear tubing out to allow air flow through the fins, just the 2 sides need the tubing, something like this :-
http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/...6/IMG_0012.jpg I have not broken one fin since I started doing this, tho I have them front, back and both sides little pieces cut at about 5mm squeezed in like photo tho I have them on the out side not all the way in like the photo only in about 2mm from outer edge between every fin. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/o...8/P1040213.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/o...8/P1040214.jpg It mainly happens from the harmonics from the engine as Grizz mentioned. |
Any ideas why i get fuel in the bottom of the chassis near to where the engine connects to the car. I know i am still running a little rich (until I meet up with Dave G tomorrow night as he is going to lend a hand fine tuning my engine)
I have checked for air leaks and the back plate screws as fully secured but just I have cleaned the car and just had it running in the garage and there seems to be a lot of fuel. :weird: I am using now two springs to connect the exhaust to the engine. The 3 small springs on the exhaust seem fine. any ideas please Thanks Simon |
Originally Posted by scurr
(Post 8034038)
Any ideas why i get fuel in the bottom of the chassis near to where the engine connects to the car. I know i am still running a little rich (until I meet up with Dave G tomorrow night as he is going to lend a hand fine tuning my engine)
I have checked for air leaks and the back plate screws as fully secured but just I have cleaned the car and just had it running in the garage and there seems to be a lot of fuel. :weird: I am using now two springs to connect the exhaust to the engine. The 3 small springs on the exhaust seem fine. any ideas please Thanks Simon |
Originally Posted by rider313
(Post 8034112)
Let me guesse your at about 1.5 gallons on this motor? I would say its the front engine bearing leaking. they need replacement after the first gallon or so. :nod:
I replaced the clutch and bearings last night, i guess you mean another front bearing if so where and how easy to do?? Thanks in advance |
Originally Posted by scurr
(Post 8034145)
I am only about 3/4 of a gallon and it seems to have done since i got the new engine. Is there any special way to put the engine on to the engine and also the 3 springs which also joins the exhaust, and also the height where it sits in the buggy (using the grub screw etc) me thinks may be its not sit right rather than been a bearing.
I replaced the clutch and bearings last night, i guess you mean another front bearing if so where and how easy to do?? Thanks in advance http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...3/Goengine.png |
Thanks for that post mate its spot on ;)
Just checked and the engine underneath is bone dry so seems to be coming from around the exhaust |
is that the MGX head flanno ? :cool:
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i just won a bid for a new gx-7r combo for $240 shipped , it seemed like a good deal i know i want the engine but i know nothing about there pipes, any good???
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Originally Posted by nitrozilla
(Post 8035124)
i just won a bid for a new gx-7r combo for $240 shipped , it seemed like a good deal i know i want the engine but i know nothing about there pipes, any good???
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+1 on that. awesome pipe. A+ if i might say. lol
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Originally Posted by nitrozilla
(Post 8035124)
i just won a bid for a new gx-7r combo for $240 shipped , it seemed like a good deal i know i want the engine but i know nothing about there pipes, any good???
The combo kits come with either pipe depending on what the distributor orders. Both pipes are very good, but IMO the 2072 is the better performer, plus it has the reinforced stinger and is much stronger pipe all round. You will enjoy the motor, just check up on the run in and tuning tips at www.go-racing.co.nz on the Tech Tips page. :cool: |
Originally Posted by inferno13
(Post 8030294)
im not a quiter!!!!! lol...if i was i would have stopped working on this long ago, are the fins coming loose a problem with these? ive seen a few go motors forsale on here and alot of them say they have loose fins but not interfere with the performance of the engine....bla...bla...., i did pull the carb out today and noticed the bottom o-ring in carb opening was torn and sticking out. i threw a nova head on it (dint like the rattleing noise) also bought some p3 and od97t today, also tossed a new rod in it just incase, im not giving up on it! thanks alot all for trying to help out, and as grizz said in past post "just being silly" well i can tell him what is silly and it's not me!!
Ok So take off the flywheel , look inside where the collett goes and see if you can see a lip .. if its there get a new flywheel and collett and tighten the suckker down hard ! If thats not it then you have to ask why is the engine lean bogging ? It will only lean bog if its starving for fuel. or if its making power but cant get it to the wheels because of something in the drive train. Lean bog can develop over time if the engine was run in cold Any sort of Air leak in the tank , pipe , seals , pressure line HSN needle dirty Head bolts loose I think the problem is outside the engine .. check the clutch first .. hope this helps Cheers MM |
Originally Posted by MAGPIE-121
(Post 8034895)
is that the MGX head flanno ? :cool:
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 8032859)
High resonance vibration from the motor.
Cut 4 x pieces of fuel tubing and fit them between the middle most fins on the front, rear and both sides. The middle fins are the most affected by this vibration. The fuel tubing will stop the fins coming loose 80 - 90% of the time. This is not an uncommon thing, and happens on a lot of nitro engines. Another thing that can influence the fins breaking is if the body is touching the fins anywhere. Make sure your body is cut well away from the cooling head. Hope this helps MM |
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