2LikesGo-Tech Engines Thread
10-03-2010 | 10:18 PM
10-03-2010 | 10:36 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
10-03-2010 | 10:37 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Most people are under the impression, or have been taught to tune the top end needle first followed by the bottom end needle - WRONG. The best way to tune any carb on these motors (long or short needle), or any micro 2 needle carb actually, is to set the idle gap and tune the bottom end first. Then tune the top, then revisit the bottom.
With the long needle carb it's all about having the top end needle rich enough - so if you tune by cranking on the top end needle first to get a nice crisp WOT setting, YOU WILL GET LEAN BOG.
With the long needle carbs, because the tapered end of the needle stays in the reciever jet even at wide open throttle, you need the HSN set rich enough to let enough fuel past the needle tip at WOT. The slightest bit lean on the top will result in lean bog. This is why you must set the bottom end first for good power right through the rev range, thus making sure the HSN is rich enough to allow this, then fine tune the very top end if required with the HSN by only a screw driver blade width at a time. Then go back and re-visit the LSN if you did need to tweak the HSN, as this will have a direct effect on LSN performance too.
I go back to my garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle.
If you only have the tap open a little (think lean HSN) you will get a nice steady trickle out of the hose (normal running). Now if you open the hose nozzle suddenly and quickly (stab the throttle out of a corner), will you get a good jet of water ? - no you won't, because there is not enough pressure due to the tap being shut.
What you need to do is open the tap up more so you have all the water you will need, no matter how wide open the nozzle is (richen the HSN), then control the flow of water from a trickle to a jet by adjusting the nozzle (tuning the LSN). Make sense ??? Well that's exactly how your GO carb works !!!! It's no more complicated than that. It just requires a little thinking outside of the square, and away from conventional tuning methods that have not kept up with innovations over the years.
Tune the bottom first, then the top. Hope this helps.
By the way - check your exhaust header. Had a customer who was having a devil of a job getting and keeping a tune. Turns out his exhaust header had a hair line split in the bend. New header = problem solved.
10-03-2010 | 10:38 PM
ok...i dont know much about that fuel so is that the gen 2 or whatever?...just want to know so i can get the same fuel!....have you ever ran losi nitrotane?....its made by VP racing fuels! as in the top fuel dragsters and dirtbikes and any race vehicles
10-03-2010 | 10:42 PM
if he run Byrons and you run nitrotane in it and then he goes back to byrons it will be hard as crap to re tune... ive seen that a few times before
10-03-2010 | 10:43 PM
There is nothing wrong with the Gen 5 or 5.5 motors, trust me. We ran heaps of those motors here and they got hammered. Tuning and lean bog was not an issue, once tuned correctly. The people having difficulties with the motors are not tuning the long needle carbs properly.
Most people are under the impression, or have been taught to tune the top end needle first followed by the bottom end needle - WRONG. The best way to tune any carb on these motors (long or short needle), or any micro 2 needle carb actually, is to set the idle gap and tune the bottom end first. Then tune the top, then revisit the bottom.
With the long needle carb it's all about having the top end needle rich enough - so if you tune by cranking on the top end needle first to get a nice crisp WOT setting, YOU WILL GET LEAN BOG.
With the long needle carbs, because the tapered end of the needle stays in the reciever jet even at wide open throttle, you need the HSN set rich enough to let enough fuel past the needle tip at WOT. The slightest bit lean on the top will result in lean bog. This is why you must set the bottom end first for good power right through the rev range, thus making sure the HSN is rich enough to allow this, then fine tune the very top end if required with the HSN by only a screw driver blade width at a time. Then go back and re-visit the LSN if you did need to tweak the HSN, as this will have a direct effect on LSN performance too.
I go back to my garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle.
If you only have the tap open a little (think lean HSN) you will get a nice steady trickle out of the hose (normal running). Now if you open the hose nozzle suddenly and quickly (stab the throttle out of a corner), will you get a good jet of water ? - no you won't, because there is not enough pressure due to the tap being shut.
What you need to do is open the tap up more so you have all the water you will need, no matter how wide open the nozzle is (richen the HSN), then control the flow of water from a trickle to a jet by adjusting the nozzle (tuning the LSN). Make sense ??? Well that's exactly how your GO carb works !!!! It's no more complicated than that. It just requires a little thinking outside of the square, and away from conventional tuning methods that have not kept up with innovations over the years.
Tune the bottom first, then the top. Hope this helps.
By the way - check your exhaust header. Had a customer who was having a devil of a job getting and keeping a tune. Turns out his exhaust header had a hair line split in the bend. New header = problem solved.
Most people are under the impression, or have been taught to tune the top end needle first followed by the bottom end needle - WRONG. The best way to tune any carb on these motors (long or short needle), or any micro 2 needle carb actually, is to set the idle gap and tune the bottom end first. Then tune the top, then revisit the bottom.
With the long needle carb it's all about having the top end needle rich enough - so if you tune by cranking on the top end needle first to get a nice crisp WOT setting, YOU WILL GET LEAN BOG.
With the long needle carbs, because the tapered end of the needle stays in the reciever jet even at wide open throttle, you need the HSN set rich enough to let enough fuel past the needle tip at WOT. The slightest bit lean on the top will result in lean bog. This is why you must set the bottom end first for good power right through the rev range, thus making sure the HSN is rich enough to allow this, then fine tune the very top end if required with the HSN by only a screw driver blade width at a time. Then go back and re-visit the LSN if you did need to tweak the HSN, as this will have a direct effect on LSN performance too.
I go back to my garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle.
If you only have the tap open a little (think lean HSN) you will get a nice steady trickle out of the hose (normal running). Now if you open the hose nozzle suddenly and quickly (stab the throttle out of a corner), will you get a good jet of water ? - no you won't, because there is not enough pressure due to the tap being shut.
What you need to do is open the tap up more so you have all the water you will need, no matter how wide open the nozzle is (richen the HSN), then control the flow of water from a trickle to a jet by adjusting the nozzle (tuning the LSN). Make sense ??? Well that's exactly how your GO carb works !!!! It's no more complicated than that. It just requires a little thinking outside of the square, and away from conventional tuning methods that have not kept up with innovations over the years.
Tune the bottom first, then the top. Hope this helps.
By the way - check your exhaust header. Had a customer who was having a devil of a job getting and keeping a tune. Turns out his exhaust header had a hair line split in the bend. New header = problem solved.
wow that is SPOT ON!....you amaze me shane
10-03-2010 | 10:44 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
There is nothing wrong with the Gen 5 or 5.5 motors, trust me. We ran heaps of those motors here and they got hammered. Tuning and lean bog was not an issue, once tuned correctly. The people having difficulties with the motors are not tuning the long needle carbs properly.
Most people are under the impression, or have been taught to tune the top end needle first followed by the bottom end needle - WRONG. The best way to tune any carb on these motors (long or short needle), or any micro 2 needle carb actually, is to set the idle gap and tune the bottom end first. Then tune the top, then revisit the bottom.
With the long needle carb it's all about having the top end needle rich enough - so if you tune by cranking on the top end needle first to get a nice crisp WOT setting, YOU WILL GET LEAN BOG.
With the long needle carbs, because the tapered end of the needle stays in the reciever jet even at wide open throttle, you need the HSN set rich enough to let enough fuel past the needle tip at WOT. The slightest bit lean on the top will result in lean bog. This is why you must set the bottom end first for good power right through the rev range, thus making sure the HSN is rich enough to allow this, then fine tune the very top end if required with the HSN by only a screw driver blade width at a time. Then go back and re-visit the LSN if you did need to tweak the HSN, as this will have a direct effect on LSN performance too.
I go back to my garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle.
If you only have the tap open a little (think lean HSN) you will get a nice steady trickle out of the hose (normal running). Now if you open the hose nozzle suddenly and quickly (stab the throttle out of a corner), will you get a good jet of water ? - no you won't, because there is not enough pressure due to the tap being shut.
What you need to do is open the tap up more so you have all the water you will need, no matter how wide open the nozzle is (richen the HSN), then control the flow of water from a trickle to a jet by adjusting the nozzle (tuning the LSN). Make sense ??? Well that's exactly how your GO carb works !!!! It's no more complicated than that. It just requires a little thinking outside of the square, and away from conventional tuning methods that have not kept up with innovations over the years.
Tune the bottom first, then the top. Hope this helps.
By the way - check your exhaust header. Had a customer who was having a devil of a job getting anf keeping a tune. Turns out his exhaust header had a hair line split in the bend. New header = problem solved.
Most people are under the impression, or have been taught to tune the top end needle first followed by the bottom end needle - WRONG. The best way to tune any carb on these motors (long or short needle), or any micro 2 needle carb actually, is to set the idle gap and tune the bottom end first. Then tune the top, then revisit the bottom.
With the long needle carb it's all about having the top end needle rich enough - so if you tune by cranking on the top end needle first to get a nice crisp WOT setting, YOU WILL GET LEAN BOG.
With the long needle carbs, because the tapered end of the needle stays in the reciever jet even at wide open throttle, you need the HSN set rich enough to let enough fuel past the needle tip at WOT. The slightest bit lean on the top will result in lean bog. This is why you must set the bottom end first for good power right through the rev range, thus making sure the HSN is rich enough to allow this, then fine tune the very top end if required with the HSN by only a screw driver blade width at a time. Then go back and re-visit the LSN if you did need to tweak the HSN, as this will have a direct effect on LSN performance too.
I go back to my garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle.
If you only have the tap open a little (think lean HSN) you will get a nice steady trickle out of the hose (normal running). Now if you open the hose nozzle suddenly and quickly (stab the throttle out of a corner), will you get a good jet of water ? - no you won't, because there is not enough pressure due to the tap being shut.
What you need to do is open the tap up more so you have all the water you will need, no matter how wide open the nozzle is (richen the HSN), then control the flow of water from a trickle to a jet by adjusting the nozzle (tuning the LSN). Make sense ??? Well that's exactly how your GO carb works !!!! It's no more complicated than that. It just requires a little thinking outside of the square, and away from conventional tuning methods that have not kept up with innovations over the years.
Tune the bottom first, then the top. Hope this helps.
By the way - check your exhaust header. Had a customer who was having a devil of a job getting anf keeping a tune. Turns out his exhaust header had a hair line split in the bend. New header = problem solved.
10-03-2010 | 10:49 PM
10-03-2010 | 10:51 PM
10-03-2010 | 10:55 PM
hey guys, just a quick question regarding the carb, have issue where sometimes it gets stuck and not return back to the closed position, the servo is still buzzing trying to move it
if i'm sliding it with my hand it feels very rough compared to the carb on my axe rossi motor which is very smooth.
is this because its new or have i got a dodge carb?
thanks.
if i'm sliding it with my hand it feels very rough compared to the carb on my axe rossi motor which is very smooth.
is this because its new or have i got a dodge carb?
thanks.
10-03-2010 | 10:58 PM
Thats another thing I'm going to include in my video, to show marshals how to shut down a run away.
at ACT States just gone a marshal was (wrong) trying to toe stop an engine for almost 45 sec and I was just cringing in pain seeing that this should be common knowledge on how to save an engine before it pops, reving at 40K with no load for a long period is not a good thing.
10-03-2010 | 10:58 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
i have had may novarossi engines, no problem to tune!!! i see nova in my future!
10-03-2010 | 11:02 PM
There is nothing wrong with the Gen 5 or 5.5 motors, trust me. We ran heaps of those motors here and they got hammered. Tuning and lean bog was not an issue, once tuned correctly. The people having difficulties with the motors are not tuning the long needle carbs properly.
Most people are under the impression, or have been taught to tune the top end needle first followed by the bottom end needle - WRONG. The best way to tune any carb on these motors (long or short needle), or any micro 2 needle carb actually, is to set the idle gap and tune the bottom end first. Then tune the top, then revisit the bottom.
With the long needle carb it's all about having the top end needle rich enough - so if you tune by cranking on the top end needle first to get a nice crisp WOT setting, YOU WILL GET LEAN BOG.
With the long needle carbs, because the tapered end of the needle stays in the reciever jet even at wide open throttle, you need the HSN set rich enough to let enough fuel past the needle tip at WOT. The slightest bit lean on the top will result in lean bog. This is why you must set the bottom end first for good power right through the rev range, thus making sure the HSN is rich enough to allow this, then fine tune the very top end if required with the HSN by only a screw driver blade width at a time. Then go back and re-visit the LSN if you did need to tweak the HSN, as this will have a direct effect on LSN performance too.
I go back to my garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle.
If you only have the tap open a little (think lean HSN) you will get a nice steady trickle out of the hose (normal running). Now if you open the hose nozzle suddenly and quickly (stab the throttle out of a corner), will you get a good jet of water ? - no you won't, because there is not enough pressure due to the tap being shut.
What you need to do is open the tap up more so you have all the water you will need, no matter how wide open the nozzle is (richen the HSN), then control the flow of water from a trickle to a jet by adjusting the nozzle (tuning the LSN). Make sense ??? Well that's exactly how your GO carb works !!!! It's no more complicated than that. It just requires a little thinking outside of the square, and away from conventional tuning methods that have not kept up with innovations over the years.
Tune the bottom first, then the top. Hope this helps.
By the way - check your exhaust header. Had a customer who was having a devil of a job getting and keeping a tune. Turns out his exhaust header had a hair line split in the bend. New header = problem solved.
Most people are under the impression, or have been taught to tune the top end needle first followed by the bottom end needle - WRONG. The best way to tune any carb on these motors (long or short needle), or any micro 2 needle carb actually, is to set the idle gap and tune the bottom end first. Then tune the top, then revisit the bottom.
With the long needle carb it's all about having the top end needle rich enough - so if you tune by cranking on the top end needle first to get a nice crisp WOT setting, YOU WILL GET LEAN BOG.
With the long needle carbs, because the tapered end of the needle stays in the reciever jet even at wide open throttle, you need the HSN set rich enough to let enough fuel past the needle tip at WOT. The slightest bit lean on the top will result in lean bog. This is why you must set the bottom end first for good power right through the rev range, thus making sure the HSN is rich enough to allow this, then fine tune the very top end if required with the HSN by only a screw driver blade width at a time. Then go back and re-visit the LSN if you did need to tweak the HSN, as this will have a direct effect on LSN performance too.
I go back to my garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle.
If you only have the tap open a little (think lean HSN) you will get a nice steady trickle out of the hose (normal running). Now if you open the hose nozzle suddenly and quickly (stab the throttle out of a corner), will you get a good jet of water ? - no you won't, because there is not enough pressure due to the tap being shut.
What you need to do is open the tap up more so you have all the water you will need, no matter how wide open the nozzle is (richen the HSN), then control the flow of water from a trickle to a jet by adjusting the nozzle (tuning the LSN). Make sense ??? Well that's exactly how your GO carb works !!!! It's no more complicated than that. It just requires a little thinking outside of the square, and away from conventional tuning methods that have not kept up with innovations over the years.
Tune the bottom first, then the top. Hope this helps.
By the way - check your exhaust header. Had a customer who was having a devil of a job getting and keeping a tune. Turns out his exhaust header had a hair line split in the bend. New header = problem solved.
you can teach old dogs new tricks as they say, but 1st they gotta be open to it.
10-03-2010 | 11:03 PM
yeah its Gen 2 30/11 ... if you find 30/9, that is almost the exact same tune, ive switched back and forth between 30/11 and 30/9 and only went 2 hour on the high speed needle. ... BTW Ryan Lopez recommends 30/9...