I put the restricter back in, instant success! Idled great,smoke from low to top. Power up the wazoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D

I'm going to bump the thread to the top,
so Mathiew can find it. Good luck breaking
your engine in Mathiew.

Thanks Rageworks:sneaky:

i've recieve my GO GX-5R from factory with all these shims install on the engines:

1 x 0.3mm silver shim
1 x 0.2mm copper shim
1 x 0.15mm copper shim
1 x 0.1mm copper shim

For a total of 0.75mm shim.

BUT, with the engine i've recieve a spare shim, i've install it for break-in, but i can't remember wich one of all these shims i've install:rolleyes:

I'am to my tank #7 of break-in and i want to know if i MUST leave it like that once the break-in will be finish, or should i remove one of these shim.

Thank you!

Leave it in for the first Gallon.

like they say leave in for a while it will come down to what % nitro you use to massives web site is real good it will help you understand shimming to nitro % and glow plugs

mathiew this is the page u need. HTH :

http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...roducts_id=192

I don't know why but i can't have access to the information on this web site:(
Were it's write Browse by products, i don't have acces to this section.

The only thing i see when i go on the site is the pics of the buggy.:(

Hi Mathiew,

What you should have standard in your motor is -

1 x .3mm Alloy shim

2 x .1mm copper shims

That gives you .5 mm total shims, plus you have .3 mm built into the head button, for a total clearance of .8mm.

You fit the .2mm copper shim for run in. Leave this in for a few litres until you can just turn the motor over with your thumb in the buggy when it's hot.
Once you can do this, remove the .2mm shim if your running 25%. If you are running 30% leave the .2mm shim in.

Hope this clears things up. Check out www.go-racing.co.nz (Tech Tips page) for run-in tips. If your in the US you will have a short needle carb, so the tuning tips for the long needle carb on this page will not necessarily apply to your motor. However the basic - set idle gap, tune in lsn, then tune in hsn, then re visit lsn method works for all motors. :cool:

Thank you GRIZZ, but on mine, i have 1 x 0.1mm and 1 x 0,15mm.

I don't have 2 x 0.1mm.

And for the tune, yes i have the short LSN in it, but normally, it's the HSN that should be tune before the LSN:weird:??????????

Thank you!

not on a go tec! leave the hsn flush,lsn 1/2 to 1 full turn in. when engine is broke in I would remove the .015 shim. I have never seen a go-tec with .015shim. Here is what I do with all my go-tecs, I set the idle gap at 1mm,turn the low speed needle in 1/2 turn fire it up and do the idle-little throttle for the first tank. tank 2 I put on ground and start the figure 8's for 4-5 tanks. I have the travel set at 50% for my throttle. That way you won't do anything stupid. After my first 1/2 gallon I then start to watch engine temps,smoke trail. then start to tune appropriately.I do not set my engine to a certain temp. The engine should be around the same temp with every tank you run through it.This gives me an average. Now around the gallon and a half mark I do the shimming. I do the shimming the way mark describes on his web site. Engine to cold,pipe hot=to many shims.engine to hot pipe cold to little shims. I run byrons 30% which I really like. So after doing a few of my engines the way I described above I have a certain starting point. which for me is [after break in] is a total shim pack of .04+the 3 built in= a total of .07. Now just up the way[higher,lower, elevation,outside temps ] I may need to lean a little or fatten up. But this is all done with the lsn. And not much of a change,1/4 turn max either way. Once my hsn is set I leave it alone. The only time I have had to reset the hsn is when I changed the seals on it.

Wow!! very good explanation, thank you!
But is i have to tune it that way if i have the short LSN in my engine?

I have read the tuning tips section of GRIZZ1 web site and al my questions was reply.
Very good infos on this site.
I've put it in my favorites:nod:

Thank you!

Everyone has differing ideas on tuning. Tuning the LSN first is a good way of tuning because this needle, on any carb, controls the flow of fuel up to around 3/4 throttle on most motors. The HSN really only comes in at the very top end.
Set the idle gap to .7 - 1mm (very important to do this before you start tuning or you will chase your tale all day). Check the idle gap with the pinch test after the motor has been running for only a minute. If the motor only revs up slightly when you oinch off the fuel line, your idle gap is good.
Tune bottom end for good take off, then tune top end for max performance (with good smoke) at WOT. If you had to adjust the top end a reasonable amount, then re-check the bottom end again (leaning the HSN will lean the LSN at the same time to a certain degree).That's it !! Also, remember if you raise or lower the idle speed at anytime, you are also directly richening and leaning the bottom end correspondingly.
He he - no one said it was going to be easy :)

YES! with any go engine, you may need to turn in the hsn some,but not much. Always do the lsn to make any major adjustments as far as fuel rich or lean. It's like they tune ass backwards from what your use to. I have an axial 28rr that once you set the lsn and idle, then you just adj. the hsn. It's a bitch to get the hang of.But once you do then it's just ask mark,grizz,racer22 they will tell you off the top of their heads if your screwing up and where. I down loaded and made a whole folder just for tuning reference for the go-tec's. One last tip, if you think it's the engine,it probably is not. I have only had 2 engine related problems that were not my mistake. And they were one air leak around the pinch bolt that holds carb in place. the other was air leak from needle seals. Oh and one more, the fuel filter had an air leak. Other then that unless I muffed it up ,no engine problems. I am surprised that for the price and the performance that these are not the second most popular engines made. #1 would be the mg66 hands down! Every one has always pissed and moaned about how bad the carbs are and they won't hold a tune,go-tec's don't last,they are cheap tiwanni engines. I say;learn to read and comprehend! So read,take your time,make sure the engine is fully warmed up[2-3 tanks] and this engine will not let you down.

Just a little precision that i've not read anywere, when we adjust the idle gap, should it be set with or without the carb restrictor??

Because the gap with the restrictor in place are not the same as the gap without the restrictor in place.

Or i'am completly out with this question:weird:

Thanks;)