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Originally Posted by bigmatt
(Post 6197746)
the complete one is the one you want.that looks like a gen 5.5. whats wrong with your carb?
Originally Posted by xjqkz
(Post 6188287)
Is it normal for the carb to rotate slightly after the retaining bolt is tightened i mean REALLY tightened ? if not normal then can someone tell me what do I need to do to fix this?
Originally Posted by 22Racer
(Post 6188348)
Sounds like the metal ring came loose from the composite, I have heard of some people epoxying them but you basically need a new carb body. They have been replacing them for free here in the Usa. It's best to have the place where you bought it warranty it.
Rex |
Originally Posted by TNHEADDUCK
(Post 6197789)
Can anyone tell me the base needle settings on a GO 21 sport engine just got a used one and need to find a starting point.
Well here's a little chart I made a while ago not only for GO but a lot of other engines too....hope that helps http://tarzee.com/images/engines.jpg |
I've found the sport engine needle settings are pretty close to the race motors.
Rex |
if your unsure the base settings on your needles are flush on the go techs :) it keeps it real simple for when you loose your tune reset and start again :nod:
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Thanks for the info, you know how it is sometimes, just trying to get a little more out of it and then it won't stay riunning long enought to tune it, kept dieing at idle.
It was running around 230/240 degrees is that too hot? it had plenty of smoke and seemed to have plenty of power. |
Originally Posted by TNHEADDUCK
(Post 6199306)
Thanks for the info, you know how it is sometimes, just trying to get a little more out of it and then it won't stay riunning long enought to tune it, kept dieing at idle.
It was running around 230/240 degrees is that too hot? it had plenty of smoke and seemed to have plenty of power. |
Originally Posted by Gizmatron
(Post 6200582)
Nah..230-245 is about where all my Go motors like to be..they just seem to like runing a bit hotter than other makes I've tried..so long as you have good smoke should be fine..if you have problems holding a tune just do it logically..First if it's been running great for a while then won't hold a tune and you've adjusted nothing look elsewhere than the needles for the problem.once you've eliminated air leaks..loose fuel pipe..bad tank seal.shit in the needles .motor low on compression etc etc..then set idle gap 0.7-1mm needles flush and tune from the lsn...probably need to turn lsn in 1 turn to get it to idle from the start...
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Definately go to a 1.0 spring in the clutch. I install a shim under the sleeve that works awesome, basically changes the timing in the motor. It takes away some bottom and give's it more top. I run all my 5 ports this way. thanks |
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 6201045)
Hey Mr Giz, has your new toy landed yet ??? Can't be many sleeps away now if it hasn't arrived already.
Anyway the 7 port is about run in..put about 3 litres through it this week..neighbours are pissed off but thats OK cause they're assholes anyway..bet they'll be overjoyed to hear I got another new engine to get ready for the 6th september..YAY! |
I just ground off about like 1.5mm off the lsn to try out and I rounded it of really nice and I find tune much easier to catch. This was a gen 4 carb I had laying around. These carbs were always alittle tough for me to keep a tune on. This is something I recommend to try for everyone. It to me gives the midrange much more pull. The new carbs I have no problem with I was just bored. The 5.5 carb I currently have I havent touched it for like 3 weeks. Thats what I am talking about. Also for temps, some Go's run at 200 some 245, I agree with not worrying obout the numbers if there is a nice amount of smoke dont worry about it.
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
(Post 6201207)
Anyway the 7 port is about run in..put about 3 litres through it this week..neighbours are pissed off but thats OK cause they're assholes anyway..bet they'll be overjoyed to hear I got another new engine to get ready for the 6th september..YAY!
our MG66's should land either today or early next week depending on customs and they're all presold- and no I didn't get 1 myself:cry: ohwell theres always the next batch Adrian |
Picked my MG66 up from Mark last night. Lucky number 13... well my last name is Black! Man, it's such a good looking motor, I think I'm in luuuv..... How do I tell the misses...... :lol:
Pete. |
Originally Posted by bigmatt
(Post 6197767)
make sure your engine mount is tall enough,so the bottom of the case is not rubbing or to close to the bottom of the chassis. also I use a washer and some thread locker to make sure the engine will not come loose and vibrate. which will cause the hold down mount to break.
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Originally Posted by j_blaze14
(Post 6201329)
will try something, its my 3rd case this year and its getting old. no signs of contact under the motor on the chassis and all 12 screws were tight when it happened last. will the new series of motors have a differnt case or the same? i've run other motors and had no issues with other brands. it sucks cause i really like the go's feel and performance (and cost if they would last a bit more).
Look if there is a space between the engine and the engine mount. If the engine mount it's catching in the crankcase, this will cause a crack. If this is happening, you will need to grind a little bit of material from your engine mount. :) |
Guys, I'm in the market for a new engine for my Hyper 7. I've had my eye on the Go-Tech 5 port for some time now and I think its come time to purchase a new engine. I'm pretty tight on money, so saving money anywhere is good for me. Is it worth it to get the 5 port over the 3 port? Is just a weekend warrior driver like me really going to notice the difference that much? I am hopefully going to get into racing soon as well so keep that into consideration. Just looking for your thoughts. :)
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