You guy`should move to Taranaki,raced last weekend,sunshine and the odd shower:)Not one rainout all last season,probably tempted the rain gods now:mad:Anyway,enough bragging,has anyone used the GO plugs yet?

Shoot try phx arizona (whats rain ) hahahaha thats where i race its a whopping 100 degrees f now here its 4pm

Not yet. Hopefully tomorrow or next weekend - fingers crossed.

I did a couple of extended stays in Tucson a few years back during your winter / spring. Beautiful climate. Was playing golf so it was fantastic for that, and of course RC car racing :cool:

Gents

i hoping you can help as i need some advice,
go 7 port uk import ( think gen4 )
hn 2047 pipe
os p3 plug
optifuel 30%
HN silver alloy shoes with 2 x1.1 and 1 1.0 spings 13t bell.
All in XT8

I can get this engine to fly but seems to be suffering the usual too rich LSN as it takes time to drop down back to idle then wont idle very long.
Did 3 os plugs yesterday 1 where the wire had melted to side of coil apature in glow plug, rest showd white colour coil.
Also after jumps or bad landings takes time to pick fuel up gain stuttering until this has cleared.
ive recently changed my line routing so the fuel pick up runs back round filter neck and in from top rather than above exhaust could this be cause.
if i tune to get LSN to where is recommended around the 2 turns in mark i get bog out of slow corners like the clutch killing engine ?
Im running on astrotruf too so v high grip.

Help

Spud

Thanks for the PM, I did see that oil on Mark's site and I'm on the list for when it becomes available to us here, just looking for a good aro until then.

Thanks Grizz.

Sounds like you are too lean on top. That's why you are cooking plugs and getting the bog out of corners. Probably too rich on bottom as well.
Did you read my post on page 453 ? This should set you on the right track.
Also here is a cut and paste from the other GO forum that I posted recently. It will help explain what is happening with your motor I hope.

"The GO's are a little different because the long tapered LSN never actually comes out of the spray bar, so in effect it tunes the motor right through the entire range as opposed to the normal situation where the LSN does up to say 1/2 throttle then the HSN from 1/2 to full throttle.
With the long LSN GO's you just need to make sure the HSN is rich enough (.5 turn in) to supply a big enough volume of fuel to push the fuel past the taper tip of the LSN at wide open throttle. This is were most people go wrong when trying to tune the long needle GO's like a standard short needle carb.

I have always used the analogy of a garden hose to clarify how the needles work. Your HSN is the tap, and your LSN is the variable nozzle on the end of the hose. You use the nozzle (LSN) to regulate the flow of water out of the hose depending on what you are doing. But in order to get the right amount of water out of the nozzle, the tap (HSN) must be turned on enough first.
If you have the tap turned nearly off you might get a reasonable gentle spray pattern, but when you turn the nozzle to jet to reach something further away, all you get is a trickle out of the end (lean bog).
A standard carb is no different, just that the nozzle (shorter LSN) is more, shall we say efficient, so it doesn't need the tap (HSN) turned on quite so far to get a good flow on the jet setting.

GO use this long needle method to give a smooth power band and better economy, which works very well, as long as you are rich enough on the HSN."

Set the HSN to 1/4 turn in from flush and the LSN at 1.5 in from flush to start with. Set the idle gap to what looks like .7 - 1mm and then tune in LSN as described in article on page 453 and go from there.
I am assuming you have a long LSN carb as nearly all Gen 4's came out with them.
Hope this helps.

Shane

Thanks cobber lol thats what i thought but needed to check i was going right way.
do u think the 1x 1.0 is causing a bit of the bog

Nah - I doubt it would be contributing to any bog, not with two 1.1's along side. I would run all 1.1's though on the 7 Port, as they like to get a few revs up and clear out before the clutch hits. All 1.1's with all alloy shoes or 2 x alloy and 1 x carbon for better wear would be sweet.

Ok, so I have a question specifically for anyone who has or has had Mark's Massive Mods Go tech motors, I installed my 1st of 2 motors in a new truggy today and started to break in my motor in front of my house when after a couple of minutes it started to flame out, tune was good, pinch test was good, glow plug was good, (it was also preheated before ever starting), it would run and just flame about 15 to 30 seconds after running. It would idle fine and start to run fine but after a couple of figure 8'ts it would just hesitate and die (always when its on throttle never off throttle). We were shaking our heads and I thought maybe the tight pinch was stalling the motor but after taking the motor out we noticed a lot of fuel had been spraying out from behind the flywheel, enough that there was a line and there was a fair amount pooled up at the bottom of the flywheel.

So I thought I had a bad front bearing, took the motor out and went to put in the other one to use it and noticed that my other one (never been fired up or installed other than the breakin time it gets from MM) is leaking fluid from the front bearing too. I have never noticed any of my other motors leak like that out of the front bearing (including my stock go 3-port).

So I throw it out there, do I have 2 bad front bearings??? Do the modded Go's tend to leak from the front bearing?? Do the MM Go's have a tendancy to stall during break-in due to the pinch? What next?? Not a happy camper at this point...:flaming:

Thanks to any one who can help.

No problems with mine. Any chance you overtightened the flywheel nut and pushed the bearing back a touch via a shim or two behind the collet. I could see the bearing unseating a little causing a leak. Also were the packages damaged at all when you got them? Hate to hear you are having problems I am super happy with my 7 port from MM :(

On break in your gonna leak alittle oil from the front bearing thats nothing to worry about. you can check to see if when you spin the crank the bearing shield shouldnt move just the inner race if the seal is moving then you have a bad bearing. The mill is just really rich and isnt burning all of it, no need to worry. Flaming IDK get with Massive.

Thanks for the imput guys, as far as unseating the seal w/the flywheel nut & shims I don't think so cause the other motor hasen't been installed or even a flywheel put on it yet. Packages looked good, so I dunno.

I am going to ask Mark about the flaming out, as far as the bearings I'll go w/ya malik and give em another go (no pun intended :blush:) to see if when after break-in things clear up. Also, I looked at both motors and the inner race spins but the seal stays put, so that is a good sign. I'll tell you this, from the looks of the motor just on break in it looks like it's gonna be a killer :nod:

Thanks again :nod:

well today was my 2nd time to race with this engine. and the same thingwas happening again. randomly die toping out on the straight. i played around with adjustments all day. the engine seems to be tuned perfect anywhere on our track except the straight. about 3/4 thru the straight is just dies. no cough sputter or anything. brand new tamiya trf801 xt truggy. someone posted about the carb requiring reverse adjustments. any advice guys?

It's not uncommon for the GO front bearings to weep a little. I have had two like that, and the motor runs fine. They are not leaking as such, just weeping a little oil through the seal. It is something in the design of the bearing cage I believe. They are good bearings though, and last well.
You may be rich on the bottom if you are getting a lot of oil out the front bearing, especially on a new motor when things are not fully bedded in.
Maybe richen the top a little more if it's dying on throttle.


Read my post on page 453 regarding the GO carb and needles, and the post half way down this page re needles as well.
If it's dying on the straight then it's most likely too lean on top (and so possibly too rich on the bottom).
Make sure idle gap is .7 - 1 mm wide. Set HSN to .5 turns in from flush max, and LSN to 1.5 turns in from flush. You should be close at these settings and fine tune from there. Do not lean the HSN any more. Tune with the LSN only as described in the afore mentioned post.

No more GO's for Frosty
 

Broken rod put me out of the ROAR race yesterday :flaming:

Novarossi, here I come!