i will do that
 

Ten four, over and out

what are the thoughts on the 3 port .21r ? what is the bottem end and top end like on these motors?

New Pipe
 

hi guys

i just took some pics of my Go .28 and new 0801 Pipe,
i thought i would share how good it looks

the new pipe looks 'FANTASTIC', i cant wait to get it onto the track :)

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...C/DSCN1804.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...C/DSCN1812.jpg
:nod:

I think the 3 port is awesome for buggy now unless your in like AZ or CA where the tracks are super huge you may want to look at the 7 port too. I am getting ready to break in my new 3 port with a Powerhouse race port maybe today. Hey anyone ever heat cycled their mill with just the flywheel on there?

I think the load put on the motor doing figure eights on the ground is ideal when breaking the motor in. You want to try and stay away from any long periods at a constant engine speed. If you can do the figure eights on sloping ground even better - a little up hill and a little down hill. I know a lot of people run in motors on benches by idleing tanks through, but I think running the buggy around on the ground is the best method for a heat cycle break in.

The break in benches use a airplane prop for load and it seems to work really well. After using a bench for a few months I really think it's easier on the motor. Biggest thing is it seems to start alot easier and never flames out. I think the hardest thing on a motor is trying to start it for long periods of time.

Rex

New GO Pipe & What Glow Plugs
 

Hey guys,

I'm grabbing a GO 5 port for my ST-RR truggy, I see GO have a new pipe, being the EFRA 2072, has anyone tried this pipe yet? I was originally looking at the 0801 pipe.

Also, what plugs do you guys run in your turbo head GO's?

What kind of life are people seeing out of these motors? I bought a 3 port sport and at the 2 gallon mark its running great but I have a few people warning me that GO's blow up soon after that mark (tuning issues, rod replacement, etc.)

:weird:

I had some trouble last weekend with my dad's 3 port sport. I've read just about every page of this thread during the last 6 months, and for the life of me I can't remember where the recommended starting point is for the needles. Can anybody point me in the right direction?

One of the screws that hold the cooling head on my Go 3port Race spec backed out and completely fell out of the motor on one of my first runs today. The engine literally puked fuel in a circle from around the button. What's weird is that it ran fantastic anyway, but it wasn't until late in the day that I figured out that was the problem. Something I've never seen happen to an engine before, but it's also weird that it spit fuel like that but didn't really lean out or cause tuning/performance issues.


Made a huge mess, though!

thanks for the info on the break in procuder grizz1

i look forward to getting back home and spend what sounds like the best part of the day breaking in my new motor

look forward to it :nod::nod:

As with any motor how long it lasts depend on how you take care of it, which fuel etc. A Go motor will last as long as the best motor out there and the sport has pretty much all the same internals as the race motors.

Rex

Like Rex says, race life depends on how you maintain your engines and the quality of fuel/oil you use. Proper careful break in, especilly with an engine as tight as the GO´s, is crucial to long life and good performance. It´s hard to put a number on how long an individual motor will last, but we have had GO´s with 10 gallons on them.
You should change the rod at two gallons after the metal pinch has gone. The GO motors are very tight, and during break in the rod can get strained and/or the rod bushings can get ovalled. This would apply to any motor that is this tight from new. Change the rod a two gallons and you won´t have any problems. The GO bearings are excellent, but like anything subjected to the strains of a nitro motor used for racing, they should also be replaced periodically when they get a bit worn or notchy.
Most of the people that complain about motors ¨blowing up¨ after a couple of gallons have not done any of the above.
No break in & no maintainence = short life span, regardless of the brand of motor or the price paid. :cool:



OK, thanks Rex. I am guessing you have broken in hundreds of motors in your business, so you definitly know what´s good and what´s not :)
I had visions of a motor sitting there with just a flywheel on, screaming it´s head off for 6 tanks or so :eek:. I am guessing if you don't have a bench set up, then figure of eights on the ground is the next best thing.

I do believe flush and flush.

I always do the figure 8 break in I was just being lazy I dont have my 2nd clutch set up yet and had a Cen flywheel and clutch nut laying around and wanted to at least get something done. I know the 3 race is nothing like the 5 and 7 though so it should be alittle easier. I figured if i went and got it up to temp 2-3 times and then put the clutch on it i could throw it on the track. I usually break in like this 2 tanks figure 8 real easy never over 1/4 throttle, heat gun to 180-190 get it up to 210-220, letting it cool between tanks. Then I will run 3 straight tanks through it leaning the LSN little by little, dont let the tank get low enough to lean out before refilling. After those 5 tanks I pretty much race tune it, get to the track early with it and run it as much as possible before the 1st heat. I use the heat gun for at least the 1st gallon of fuel, my 5 port for 2 gallons. It still wont turn over cold by hand with no plug. I never used the copper break in shim but will be using it on this mill.