90 to 100 yards = gear, more gear, please, lol poor little motor

Pro Twister Mods Breakin

This is a step by step method on how to break in your GO engine, for long lasting engine reliability and less stress on the motor during breakin.

These are the items needed for breakin, heat gun, a hair dryer is ok but it doesnt get as hot as needed a heat gun is prefered, alum foil, afterrun oil.

Let's get started, to be sure the needles are set correct, the HSN should be just below flush, the LSN should be 2.5 turns out from flush, this is the best starting point we have used.

Your GO engine comes with a extra shim, now is the time to install this, this will help with the break in, after about a gallon of fuel you will want to remove it, also when you have the head off, place a few drops of ARO on the top of the piston and work the piston up and down a few times so the cylinder is coated with it. Now you can place the head back on.

If you havnt done it already, use some sealer to seal the back plate to the case, we do this just as a saftey precaution, also the carb to the case if you want, i do. Now that the motor is sealed and ready to be fired, double check all your servo links and be sure they are secure, be sure you exaust springs are on and secure.

Place the alum foil on the head while it is in the car, you can use a rubberband to help hold it on tight.

When you have the motor running you will keep the foil on the head during the entire process, the temps may go high but leave it, the needle setting are still going to be rich.

IMPORTANT, when you have the motor running on the ground, you want the HSN set so the motor will stay over 210 degrees, you want the motor to have a rich bottom but still be able to move the car without struggeling, and it should reach RPM good, not race tune RPM but able to move the car easy. You won't need to mess with the LSN during the breakin much.

Let's fire it up, the first tank is just to help flush the motor, and see the settings are good, you may need to bump the idle up just a bit on the Radio trim or the motor to help maintain a good idle during breakin, i like to use the idle screw on the motor so when you apply brakes it won't shut off the motor.

One thing i see alot of people doing is over turning the needle settings just go a little at a time, don't turn the needles 3 to 4 ours and think it will get you where you want to be, small turns will get you to the tinning window you want.

Keep the heat gun on the motor during the entire first tank, if you have a hard time getting the motor to turn over, which you shouldn't if it is over 200 loosen the plug and it should fire, just tighten it after you get it going.

Always be sure the piston is at BDC at the end of each tank

Here we GO

Tank 1 Flush motor

Tanks 1 through 3= idle to 1/4 throttle
Tanks 4 through 6= idle to 1/2 throttle
Tanks 7 through 9= idle to 3/4 throttle
Tanks 10 through 12= idle to 100%

your break in is complete, it is recommended that you keep a conservitive race setting untill you get about 3/4 to a gallon of fuel through the motor.
Brian Carey
Pro Twister Mods
615-838-5373

Snookums I just pulled a .28 and checked the needle settings, the HSN was around 2.75 turns out from bottom and the LSN was around 7.5 turns out from bottom. Remember to open the throttle to full throttle before screwing in the LSN or it will bottom inside the housing, hope this helps. It would also be a good time to reset your idle gap.

yah it is the only one i have but would it work decent?

Yeah sorry guys, didn't mean to give you a fright, try 100 - 120 ft. We work in metres over here so it all gets a bit confusing sometimes. My poor little truggy would really be screaming wouldn't it
The guys here have had a couple of .28 6 ports come to grief in the last month or so. Both motors split their crankcases in two. No apparent reason, with both motors running sweetly for some time after break in then bang. Pretty much identical breakages. Has anyone heard of similar problems ? Maybe it's just our rough tracks down here. Our tracks are pretty rutted and loose compared to what most of you guys would run on. The .28 would appear to have too much power for our normal conditions, with traction being a major problem. I think the 5 port will be perfect for local conditions.

does the .28 got more hp then the 5 and 7 port turbo .21?

i have got the .21 5 port turbo head with the 086 pipe. i have the ODO 99T plug. will it work well with the engine...

Grizz please have those guys send the engines in to your local dist. That way they can be sent to the factory for inspection, if there is a problem the factory will fix it right away. I have not heard of that happening to anyone else but we try to check out every failure to ensure there is no problem.

Cheers Rocket42. I believe the local dist is on to it. The first guy didn't bother as he thought it was just bad luck, but when the second one happened wheels were put in motion. It's strange because nobody else has had any problems with the Go engines here. They are taking a big chunk of the market down here because of their performance and their price. The cost of spare parts is also a huge selling point. Truggies are really the "in" thing here at present, and the 5 port is a huge seller. A few guys might change to the .28 now our rules will allow this motor to be run in truggy class, but it would appear most people are sticking with the 5 port for fuel economy (one less pit stop in finals maybe ?).

IMO i would say no...the 2035 will make the power band choppy, and hard to drive...i never used one on a Go engine, but i did use one on a Nova P5X and a OS Vspec and both give me the same problem...

it dosent madder anymore
i have ordered these
Go 5P turbo
2 77 pugs
dynamite 086

how does this sound?

that looks like a great start...

AC, thats a good combination

Alright guys, talk to me. I am getting ready to place an order for a 7 port, turbo with a .053 Dynamite. That seems to be what most people are recommending on the site. I have never had a Go Tech so I am completely new to this brand. I have always run Novarossi. For those of you familiar with the P5X, would the performance be similiar? If not, how would it be different? Thanks!

Got it !

Just curious where did the crank case break ? was it after a jump ?