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There are a couple people who are distributing GO Engines, Mtroniks do the Race and Sport engines I believe but there knowledge and support is not great as far as they go. The only other alternative is Answer-RC, who sell the Caster branded GO 5-Port based engine aswell as the Sport line .25 engines which come in the Caster RTR cars.
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has anyone run the go 5 port with the 2027 pipe that comes withe the crt 2
which pipe does it copy the 2047 or the 2062 ? cheers |
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 5461490)
If you are looking for maximum run time I would go for the 0801 pipe and header, with 7 or 6.5 restrictor. You may loose a little top end with this pipe but it seems to have the best run time of them all on the GO's.
Just curiously what sort of run time are you getting out the the long header set up? |
actually malik I use a tep gun every time I go on the track so you shouldnt say anything that isnt true. I think your "Pitt Man" would vouge for that one since him and I are quite good friends. I know how run my motors I followed the book method FROM GO TECH about break in. I know how to tune my motors as well. So I believe you should stop running your mouth about people who you know nothing about. As for grizz, I wasnt knocking GO-TECH. I was just saying how I felt. I believe I can say that. I LIKE GO-TECH motors and I had mine fixed by russel. He has been good to me. Some people on this thread need to chill and stop flipping at the slightest negative comment on a motor. EVERY motor has its defaults. Maybe mine was defective. WHO KNOWS. Guess we willl find out this summer
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It did sound like you were nocking them. And I never saw you use a heat gun, you said you did for 6-7 tanks which you should way longer than that. Also you and your pitmann always were arguing because of something or another I remember a few times were about you askng for an hour this or that way and he gave you 1/2 a day LOL. I wasnt the only 1 that thought you were nocking Go. And the 1st thing you should have said should have been about Russels AWSOME customer service and you didnt state that before. Not about some premature failure. Put yourself in my shoes and read your 1st post. I am just doing my job of trying not to have someone question trying a GO. All you needed to do was say everything. And I necer said anything about a temp guage.
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Anyone can question a Go an anytime. They should not be smothered by negative comments when someone says something. Not everyone likes Go motors which is true. I LIKE them and what you see and what you dont see are two different things. You have no idea what I do in my pitt area. Dont bring stuff on this thread that you have no clue if its true or not. Thats wrong on your part whether or not you thought I was knocking Go Motors
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In another Note: CHIM I'm glad that your doing well with sponsors. its always fun when you make it to oakhill rc to race against you.
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Like I said I wasnt the only 1 so chill out and nobody was being ignorant or anything I just said tell the whole story not bits and pieces. You are again being negative. Why you only talking to me? You can talk to me when you see me. I am not mad at you. I dont care what you do with your stuff, just keep it real. Yes some people dont like this or that but thats irrelevent. Good night
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Im talking to you because you brought it onto this thread that I had no idea what I was doing with my motors which is wrong in the first place. It makes me mad that you say stuff that you should have never of said.
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I said exactly what I should have and I wasnt nocking you. You just didnt tell it all. Nevermind I should have went to sleep 10 minutes ago.
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Originally Posted by malik
(Post 5461995)
Grizz, now that I put the TKO front and rear in there what should I actually gain from that? I am really not looking for anything but they are cheaper than the replacements.
Originally Posted by buggy_racer
(Post 5462223)
Ok then thankyou.
Just curiously what sort of run time are you getting out the the long header set up? Generally I would expect 8 min with the 2047 long header set up. Someone with better driving / tuning skills would no doubt get a little more :flaming: Coming in today with 1/4 tank left after 6 mins on the track during heats, so the 8 min for me was looking about right (with 7mm restrictor). |
can someone give me a run down on what carb restrictor i should be running. I have the 3pt race motor and it came with 4 other inserts. Is there a general rule eg smaller hole more run time/less power?
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 5463568)
.Hi buggy_racer, We are having really warm humid weather here at present, which is playing havoc with everyones run times from week to week.
Generally I would expect 8 min with the 2047 long header set up. Someone with better driving / tuning skills would no doubt get a little more :flaming: Coming in today with 1/4 tank left after 6 mins on the track during heats, so the 8 min for me was looking about right (with 7mm restrictor). Have you had any experience with a 6mm or 6.5mm restrictor. I have more than enough power atm for the track so maybe the 2047 combo with a smaller restrictor could work. What are your thoughts? |
Originally Posted by infernotb
(Post 5463646)
can someone give me a run down on what carb restrictor i should be running. I have the 3pt race motor and it came with 4 other inserts. Is there a general rule eg smaller hole more run time/less power?
the following is how i do my setups..feel free to disagree everyone:)) to decide which is best for you try the following setup..make sure you or preferably your pitman has a stopwatch.fit the 8mm insert..warm the engine up properly then fill the tank and race around your track with the stopwatch running till you run out of fuel.(this is assuming you have already set up your mixtures properly)..OK check time.should be at least 7.5 minutes. ..my club run 5 minutes for qualifying so well under a tank..1/4 finals are 15 minutes so to avoid having to refuel twice you need AT LEAST 7.5 minutes runtime..preferably nearer 8 minutes so you have a bit of leeway.. the real test comes in longer heats..semi finals are 30 minutes..3 fuel stops with approx 8 minute runtimes..if you can stretch your runtimes to 10 minutes the you only need to stop twice in a semi final..at this point its handy to have a stopwatch that has split times so you can measure your individual laptimes as well as total runtime..try a smaller insert to extend your runtime (you will probably need to tweak your needle setting just a touch) but check your laptimes aren't getting longer..it's not much use to have longer runtime if the power drop reduces your laptimes so much that the one less fuel stop is wasted..this will depend a lot on your track,clutch setup etc..there are many variables.. try various setups,also work out about how long you take to stop and refuel,then strain your brain with some basic maths,,hehe.and work out which setup gives you the best overall times.. eg 8mm=[ 52sec laps x 8 ]+ 3 fuel stops @ say 12secs =7minutes32 secs smaller sizes will probably give you slower laps but less fuel stops BUT one last thing..if the higher power is making you wheelspin and slide more because you have control issues you might just find faster laptimes AS WELL AS fewer fuel stops.. long post..hope this gives you some ideas |
If he has GO venturi's the smallest 1 is a 6.5 and 7 7.5 and 8. I know the mill comes with the plastic 8mm restrictor and they sell you an alum 1 IDK. I would rather get a 6mm.
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