Go-Tech Engines Thread
#3871
Run my 3 port R with the RB carb this weekend.
WAY better on bottom end, no bogging and could tune it very easy.
No movement of the carb like the GO was doing.
The overall power seemed the same although i did notice a slight decrease in fuel consumption but it wasn't perfectly tuned yet so i'll have to look at it again.
Did have the chance to try out the novarossi C6TF plug and was very good...great top end with good temps.
WAY better on bottom end, no bogging and could tune it very easy.
No movement of the carb like the GO was doing.
The overall power seemed the same although i did notice a slight decrease in fuel consumption but it wasn't perfectly tuned yet so i'll have to look at it again.
Did have the chance to try out the novarossi C6TF plug and was very good...great top end with good temps.
#3872
I ran my GO 3prt Spec R more yesterday. I am using the stock GO carb with the short LSN and this thing flat hauls. I am very happy with this engine now.
I am getting close to 10min nows with this engine with the 8mm restrictor. I am going to try a 7 soon to soften the bottom and see if I can stretch my runtime a bit more.
If you have the long LSN I would highly suggest getting the shorter one. It makes tuning easier, much easier.
I am getting close to 10min nows with this engine with the 8mm restrictor. I am going to try a 7 soon to soften the bottom and see if I can stretch my runtime a bit more.
If you have the long LSN I would highly suggest getting the shorter one. It makes tuning easier, much easier.
#3873
Question about humidity:
Whats the general rule of thumb if the humidity increases througout
the day?
The reason i ask is i had a hell of time tuning my 7port this past
weekend. The day started great but at the end of the day it was on the
verge of raining and my engine would die after it got up running temps
when i would WOT down the stretch. should i have richened the top? It
really wasnt obvious cause i had lots of power and smoke on the
stretch.
I'm running an RB carb so it wasnt the carb
Whats the general rule of thumb if the humidity increases througout
the day?
The reason i ask is i had a hell of time tuning my 7port this past
weekend. The day started great but at the end of the day it was on the
verge of raining and my engine would die after it got up running temps
when i would WOT down the stretch. should i have richened the top? It
really wasnt obvious cause i had lots of power and smoke on the
stretch.
I'm running an RB carb so it wasnt the carb
#3874
hey i installed a nova rossi carb on my 7 port and it ran great,but i you like to stay with the go carb. Where can i get my hands on some short lsn?
#3876
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
#3878
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Today I ran tank #3 thru my 5 port. I am using the break in on page 78 with no problems. Only thing I did is not run alum foil as it runs near perfect temps without it. After cooldown I took a peak at the plug and noticed some metal shavings on the bottom of it. When I first started break in I had no heat gun and quickly realized it is not possible to break this motor in without one. So after gettting a heat gun I had no problem cranking it. But before this I had to use a screwdriver to get the flywheel unstuck. Are these shavings from me forcing the piston thru the top of the sleeve? Before breakin I did a quick cleaning of the internals with nitro cleaner. Unless I missed some shavings? Should I pull apart the motor and clean it out again? I dont like the thoughts of loose metal shavings in my motor.
#3879
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Today I ran tank #3 thru my 5 port. I am using the break in on page 78 with no problems. Only thing I did is not run alum foil as it runs near perfect temps without it. After cooldown I took a peak at the plug and noticed some metal shavings on the bottom of it. When I first started break in I had no heat gun and quickly realized it is not possible to break this motor in without one. So after gettting a heat gun I had no problem cranking it. But before this I had to use a screwdriver to get the flywheel unstuck. Are these shavings from me forcing the piston thru the top of the sleeve? Before breakin I did a quick cleaning of the internals with nitro cleaner. Unless I missed some shavings? Should I pull apart the motor and clean it out again? I dont like the thoughts of loose metal shavings in my motor.
The meteal shavings, where they fine grains? it can be from the piston, the sheer from the outside dia of the piston as it pushes through the pinch, thats why i stated to use heat before cranking the engine, if you sprayed the engine out with nitro clean, i would strongley recomend replacing the bearings, and flush the engine out while the bearings are out, this will eliminate all the trash, and spreay the wrist pin and under the piston as well as the rod bushings, and then install the new bearings and use some after run oil upon reassembly, the temps you saw during breakin are a cause of the carb being set to lean out of the box, with proper needle settings during breakin, the fat fuel mix will cool and shrink the sleeve into stalling the engine from being tight at TDC. Hope this helps
#3881
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
replacing with stock bearings is fine, no, the nitro clean isn't bad for them but it is this as water, and any shavings that where in or near the bearings are for sure in them now, and will graetly reduce the life of them, if you go with ceramics get TKO's thats all i use when it comes to ceramic bearings, if you need help with instalation or perchasing of TKO's let me know, i can do it for ya.
#3882
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
We ran a 5 port and .25 6 port this weekend for the first time. I have been a Go dealer for a while but only ran the 3 and 7 ports. My son ran the 5 port in his Kyosho buggy and .25 in his truggy. Yes the 5 did have alot of bottom but it was still driveable on the track we were at. Both ran flawless and responded to changes well. He did end up winning the 30 minute buggy main by 3 laps! It wasn't because of lack of talent, there was at least 6 other chassis sponsored racers there too! Everyone commented on the motors.
I did shorten the needle on both motors after break in. I shortened them by .200 inch, same length as a Nova.
Has anyone had problems with a rod on a Rb mod Go?
Rex
I did shorten the needle on both motors after break in. I shortened them by .200 inch, same length as a Nova.
Has anyone had problems with a rod on a Rb mod Go?
Rex
#3883
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
We ran a 5 port and .25 6 port this weekend for the first time. I have been a Go dealer for a while but only ran the 3 and 7 ports. My son ran the 5 port in his Kyosho buggy and .25 in his truggy. Yes the 5 did have alot of bottom but it was still driveable on the track we were at. Both ran flawless and responded to changes well. He did end up winning the 30 minute buggy main by 3 laps! It wasn't because of lack of talent, there was at least 6 other chassis sponsored racers there too! Everyone commented on the motors.
I did shorten the needle on both motors after break in. I shortened them by .200 inch, same length as a Nova.
Has anyone had problems with a rod on a Rb mod Go?
Rex
I did shorten the needle on both motors after break in. I shortened them by .200 inch, same length as a Nova.
Has anyone had problems with a rod on a Rb mod Go?
Rex
#3884
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Internals look fine when I pulled it apart, plenty of oil in there. I did notice some scratches on lower part on conrod from the backplate also what shim was included in the box was it the thin or thicker brass washer so i can take the right one out at the gallon mark thanks guys. There are two thin brass, one thick brass and a thicker alum shim. I just cant remember what one I put in there
Last edited by Chedster; 07-21-2008 at 09:59 PM.