Aztman If your changing the rod i would also reccomend the wrist pin, the wrist pin cost about $4 and replacing it will mean that the entire assembly is brand new.

Vti, a broken in Go engine runs its best between 220f-230f, if you try to put a race tune on a go engine before its fully broken in (less than 1-1.5 gallons, they have a lot of pinch) it will run in the 260f range due to excess friction due to pinch.

kenshinmd, jpz is right use a heat gun and the added head shim. Break in varies from person to person, I think your best bet is to go to a track and have someone help you break in the engine, If not you can check the Racefactorindustries.com website there is a break in method there that is pretty popular, it can be done on the ground or on the box, doing it on the ground is a little better.

JPz what engine are you planning to throw in that 5t, the .25 6port is pretty wicked in a truggy.

Rocket42, I am not sure. I really like the 5 port turbo but may consider the 7 port turbo. To me it seems as if trucks already have excellent bottom end due to their ultra low gearing but I have just never seen a truggy pull down the straight with the top end of a buggy. I had a dynamite .28 in my previous crt and to my surprise the motor ran ok but it just didnt have the straightaway speed, fuel mileage is also a concern for me. I would have to hear some feedback on the .26 before I make up my mind.

OK thanks on the info guys. I was already thinkin about the wrist pin, so that's on the list. I'll check the bearings.

To be clear, the 380* qual was NOT on purpose. It was due to a busted tank. Plus it ran much slower than when it is setup correctly at around 230*-240*.
Travis

my .28 go tech engine just arrived . i'm planning to use it in my truggy, should i use the extra shim, and what plug would be best for it. tnx

Kidrrt yes use the extra shim, the best plug is a Go #5 or #6, if you can't find those plugs locally then you can use any O.S. compatible plug in the engine like the O.S. #8

which OS plug do you guys reccomend I use to break in the 7 port? and then once it's broken in, what do you guys run regularly?

I'm going to be using OS plugs since there is an abundance of them at the LHS.

Also, what are the guidlines you guys use for shimming? All I really know is that with some motors you need to add a shim when you start running 30% but I don't know exactly why.
Should I shim the 7 port just for break in? should I leave it shimmed? or is the shim even necessary?

sorry for all the newb questions...just trying to learn

how about in nova? i've just around my LHS, the only available plug is an O.S. r5 and a3, and nova standard plug 5, 6, 7,, which of the following do you think is compatible? tnx

I've tried all of those plugs. They don't work very well. Order the OS 8 from Amain Hobbies if your LHS can't get them.

I havent taken the leap yet, but this is what I will be getting for next race season.

Xray xb8ec
Go Tech .21 5 port turbo
Dynamite Platinum 1/8 086 High Speed Inline Exhaust System (Hard Anodized)


I havent raced 1/8th scale at all I only raced my savage around. I race on tight and open long tracks so what do you all think of this combo?

Should be great. I run the same motor pipe combo in an mbx5r on a 145 x 65 indoor track and the lanes are between 5ft-6ft wide which to me is tight. Plenty of grunt coming out of the turns and excellent on the straight.

Just got a question i know u cant put a 7P P/S in the 5P crank case cause it blocks the ports but how would a 5P P/S go in a 7P block

Kdrrt you cannot use nova plugs in the go engine as well as mccoy plugs, they will work but they will protrude too far into the combustion chamber causing decreased efficency. It must be a o.s style short shank plug to work, If you resort to mail order, amain sells the 6 pack of go plugs. A o.s. a3 will work as well.

Vigilante sounds like the perfect combo for that track. The x-ray clutch is also very good, I reccomend the 1.71 shoes with 1.0 springs, and if the bottom is too strong try the .9 springs.

Nitrojunkie, the 5port piston and sleeve will work fine in the 7port crankcase.

Ok I know you guys reccomend the p3 plug, but im going to run 30% is that still a good choice being super hot? I run a #8 in my axial for 30%. Also what shims come with the turbo 5 port and do I need to pick up any more for running 30% or for break in?

I always break in with the heat cycle method warm head with heater start and warm to above 200 and let cool down and repeat. I understand this engine has alot of pinch im guessing its comparable to what the axial RR I have is like took 1 gallon for break in on that.

yeah the p3 works great with 30%

The engine will come with a extra head shim, you should use that for break in, and you can leave it in or you can remove it for a little more performance after the engine breaks in.

what is the difference between the go .25 and .28??? is it a major one or really not alot???